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so... im going to build my engine...

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Old 10-11-2008, 04:48 AM
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Default so... im going to build my engine...

and i need to know what parts to use because i am clueless!
i have about $1500-1700 for parts. help me choose
car is 1.6L and i will be shooting for 270-280whp for now and over 300whp by mid next year

i will be using t28/t3 hybrid out of my friends rb25det (he swapped for gt35) so i would want that thing to spool quickly. next year ill be swapping for an hks turbo most probably.
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Old 10-11-2008, 02:54 PM
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well ... pistons and rods have been discussed to death, youre gonna need those

8AN2-10-271 Engine gasket set $191 from mazdamotorsports.com:
headgasket, cam + main oil seals, waterpump gasket, valve seals, intake + ex. gaskets, and everything else you need for that

Main + thrust bearings (clevite) ~ $50
hopefully pistons come with good rings, otherwise, i dunno

well theres the basics. You are probably looking at around $1500 right there.

dont forget machine work, and do you want ARP crap? I consider that bling, but whatever.
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Old 10-11-2008, 02:58 PM
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You need a set of these...



http://m-tuned.com/miatarods.html

Currently on sale @ $379

As for ARP, I normally recommend Head Bolts, but use stock Mains.
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Old 10-11-2008, 07:23 PM
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is there a reason you don't recommend ARP mains as well? just not necessary?
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Old 10-11-2008, 07:34 PM
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IMO, you don't need ARP studs for the head or mains.

The head gasket is like the fuse in the engine. If something bad happens (like detonation) that could cause severe engine damage (damaged pistons, bent rods, etc), it's designed to blow and protect the engine. Putting head studs allows you to torque the head down about 40% higher than factory specs so the engine is less likely to blow a HG (but most people spend money on them and don't WTF?). But to me, I'd rather a HG blow if I have detonation than it hold and I crack a ring landing. Guess which one's cheaper and easier to fix?

Granted from what I hear, pre 99's had those shitty composite head gaskets that just suck. I would recommend getting the multi layered steel (MLS) one like what's on the 99+ from the factory.

Add to that the HG's are NOT prone to failure. They hold up well to high boost setups just fine (assuming you have the MLS gasket). IMO, don't waste your money on studs unless this is a race car.

FWIW, I hit my 99' with a 100 shot at idle one day. Detonation CITY! From the math, the motor was making over 600 ft*lbs of torque. Blew the hell out of the HG. Had it not, it would have surely broken the ring landings.
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Old 10-11-2008, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Arkmage
is there a reason you don't recommend ARP mains as well? just not necessary?
I don't find them necessary, plus ARP recommend a line-bore when installing them and I have seen issues if this has not been done. I usually always use ARP head bolts in my motors as they are inexpensive and I don't like reusing stockers or changing head gaskets
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Old 10-11-2008, 07:46 PM
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so far im thinking about these:
wiseco 9:1 +1mm overbor
m-tuned rods
clevite bearings
fm +1mm head gasket
fm valve spring kit
web 505 cams

right there im looking at around $1700... add another $300-400 for all the gaskets, o-rings, etc and im just a tad over my budget but i should be good although id like to stay under $1700 if possible. what can i substitute?
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Old 10-11-2008, 07:48 PM
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How high are you going to rev, and how much boost are you going to run? I used to spin 8000rpm and 400ft pds of torque on stock 94-97 valve springs.

Maybe you don't need the spring kit... Same with the cam. Nice to have, but you can add it later quiet easy.
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Old 10-11-2008, 07:49 PM
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IMO you don't need valve springs either. Keep the stockers. You could skimp on cams if the budget is tight as those can be a weekend project.
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Old 10-11-2008, 08:27 PM
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gotcha. springs/cams are out of my build then

im shooting for 15psi on that t3/t28 hybrid and im going to rev to about 7500rpm.
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Old 10-11-2008, 08:28 PM
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should i upgrade to solid lifters though? what do i need to change to do that?
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Old 10-11-2008, 08:37 PM
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Nah. Just build it and run it. It wouldn't hurt to rebuild the stock hydraulic lifters though, but that's if they tick and that bothers you.
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Old 10-11-2008, 08:55 PM
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+1 on no need for springs or cams.
$300 - $400 for orings and seals? check out mazdamotorsports.com if you dont have an account, fill out the application and send a few pictures. It only took them like 3 days to approve my application and its an awesome tool to have because you can get oem parts at autozone prices.
through them the engine gasket kit is $190 including the headgasket. Thats what i would do. 15psi does not need a special headgasket to keep it in ... look at all the stock motors running 15psi all day long.

Just trying to save you some money.

cheers

Originally Posted by UrbanSoot
so far im thinking about these:
wiseco 9:1 +1mm overbor
m-tuned rods
clevite bearings
fm +1mm head gasket
fm valve spring kit
web 505 cams

right there im looking at around $1700... add another $300-400 for all the gaskets, o-rings, etc and im just a tad over my budget but i should be good although id like to stay under $1700 if possible. what can i substitute?
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Old 10-11-2008, 09:28 PM
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Dibs on the motor when parted out. Jk, sounds like you are on the right track now.
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Old 10-11-2008, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Fireindc
Dibs on the motor when parted out. Jk, sounds like you are on the right track now.
I was wondering when someone would say that.
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Old 10-12-2008, 04:39 AM
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anyone wants dibs on my other 2 turbos?
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Old 10-12-2008, 08:23 AM
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Adjustable cam gears and billet oil pump gears.
Definitely upgrade to COPs.
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Old 10-12-2008, 08:47 PM
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why would i need adjustable cam gears?
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Old 10-12-2008, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by UrbanSoot
anyone wants dibs on my other 2 turbos?
depends on what they are
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Old 10-12-2008, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Arkmage
depends on what they are
chinacharger t3 + volvo t3 (plus adapter for that turbo to use on t3 mani)
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