so... im going to build my engine...
and i need to know what parts to use because i am clueless!
i have about $1500-1700 for parts. help me choose :) car is 1.6L and i will be shooting for 270-280whp for now and over 300whp by mid next year ;) i will be using t28/t3 hybrid out of my friends rb25det (he swapped for gt35) so i would want that thing to spool quickly. next year ill be swapping for an hks turbo most probably. |
well ... pistons and rods have been discussed to death, youre gonna need those
8AN2-10-271 Engine gasket set $191 from mazdamotorsports.com: headgasket, cam + main oil seals, waterpump gasket, valve seals, intake + ex. gaskets, and everything else you need for that Main + thrust bearings (clevite) ~ $50 hopefully pistons come with good rings, otherwise, i dunno well theres the basics. You are probably looking at around $1500 right there. dont forget machine work, and do you want ARP crap? I consider that bling, but whatever. |
You need a set of these... :)
http://m-tuned.com/products/miatarods/miatarods2.jpg http://m-tuned.com/miatarods.html Currently on sale @ $379 As for ARP, I normally recommend Head Bolts, but use stock Mains. |
is there a reason you don't recommend ARP mains as well? just not necessary?
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IMO, you don't need ARP studs for the head or mains.
The head gasket is like the fuse in the engine. If something bad happens (like detonation) that could cause severe engine damage (damaged pistons, bent rods, etc), it's designed to blow and protect the engine. Putting head studs allows you to torque the head down about 40% higher than factory specs so the engine is less likely to blow a HG (but most people spend money on them and don't WTF?). But to me, I'd rather a HG blow if I have detonation than it hold and I crack a ring landing. Guess which one's cheaper and easier to fix? Granted from what I hear, pre 99's had those shitty composite head gaskets that just suck. I would recommend getting the multi layered steel (MLS) one like what's on the 99+ from the factory. Add to that the HG's are NOT prone to failure. They hold up well to high boost setups just fine (assuming you have the MLS gasket). IMO, don't waste your money on studs unless this is a race car. FWIW, I hit my 99' with a 100 shot at idle one day. Detonation CITY! From the math, the motor was making over 600 ft*lbs of torque. Blew the hell out of the HG. Had it not, it would have surely broken the ring landings. |
Originally Posted by Arkmage
(Post 318656)
is there a reason you don't recommend ARP mains as well? just not necessary?
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so far im thinking about these:
wiseco 9:1 +1mm overbor m-tuned rods clevite bearings fm +1mm head gasket fm valve spring kit web 505 cams right there im looking at around $1700... add another $300-400 for all the gaskets, o-rings, etc and im just a tad over my budget but i should be good although id like to stay under $1700 if possible. what can i substitute? |
How high are you going to rev, and how much boost are you going to run? I used to spin 8000rpm and 400ft pds of torque on stock 94-97 valve springs.
Maybe you don't need the spring kit... Same with the cam. Nice to have, but you can add it later quiet easy. |
IMO you don't need valve springs either. Keep the stockers. You could skimp on cams if the budget is tight as those can be a weekend project.
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gotcha. springs/cams are out of my build then :)
im shooting for 15psi on that t3/t28 hybrid and im going to rev to about 7500rpm. |
should i upgrade to solid lifters though? what do i need to change to do that?
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Nah. Just build it and run it. It wouldn't hurt to rebuild the stock hydraulic lifters though, but that's if they tick and that bothers you.
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+1 on no need for springs or cams.
$300 - $400 for orings and seals? check out mazdamotorsports.com if you dont have an account, fill out the application and send a few pictures. It only took them like 3 days to approve my application and its an awesome tool to have because you can get oem parts at autozone prices. through them the engine gasket kit is $190 including the headgasket. Thats what i would do. 15psi does not need a special headgasket to keep it in ... look at all the stock motors running 15psi all day long. Just trying to save you some money. cheers
Originally Posted by UrbanSoot
(Post 318666)
so far im thinking about these:
wiseco 9:1 +1mm overbor m-tuned rods clevite bearings fm +1mm head gasket fm valve spring kit web 505 cams right there im looking at around $1700... add another $300-400 for all the gaskets, o-rings, etc and im just a tad over my budget but i should be good although id like to stay under $1700 if possible. what can i substitute? |
Dibs on the motor when parted out. Jk, sounds like you are on the right track now.
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Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 318712)
Dibs on the motor when parted out. Jk, sounds like you are on the right track now.
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anyone wants dibs on my other 2 turbos? :)
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Adjustable cam gears and billet oil pump gears.
Definitely upgrade to COPs. |
why would i need adjustable cam gears?
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Originally Posted by UrbanSoot
(Post 318767)
anyone wants dibs on my other 2 turbos? :)
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Originally Posted by Arkmage
(Post 318933)
depends on what they are ;)
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