SOLVED 2004 Mazdaspeed SEE POST #22
 

Friend of mine had his car stop on the highway. He took it to a garage that tested compression and told him his motor was shot. (95K)

Brought it to me for timing belt/water pump, which seemed uneventful. It was off a few teeth.

A cold air intake has been installed and the wiring adapted, but unknown how well done.

Can not get the car to start. On first try it seemed to "diesel" for a few seconds and died. Does not fire when trying to start at all afterward.

Symptoms:

No tach movement.
Full fuel pressure good when pump runs jumped out.
Small, weak spark when first turning over but does not continue.
Plugs dry.
Fuel pump starts for short time when trying to start and then stops.



Replaced or swapped with known good or new and checked:

Main relay
Crank Angle sensor
Cam Angle Sensor
Both coils
Checked all fuses and power to all areas checked seems good.
Verified Crank Angle Sensor line back to ECU. Ground OK
Battery fully charged
All correct lights on dash on.
When cranking with OBDII reader connected, shows as 239rpm. No other codes present.

Before I tell him he will need to take it to a dealer and get raped, I need some ideas.

Crank and cam sensor distance measured?

You need compression for a motor to run. Although I doubt all four cylinders went out at once, does it sound even when cranking? No stronger puffs on one or two cylinders than the other?

What were the compression numbers?

only because you said you did the timing belt:

is the crank trigger on backwards?

Crank distance about thickness of a credit card.

No adjustment on cam distance that I know of.

Original crank trigger left in place while doing TB. Replaced afterward in same position.

EDIT: You are talking about the plate? Yes it is on correctly.

Original compression number told to be almost nothing. Have not checked since doing TB. May be time to do so, but should have had something firing.

Seems to be no signal to spark or injectors. Don't want to think it is the ECU yet. Do not understand how the immobilizer might affect spark and fuel if it is FUBAR.

Any other thoughts?

Compression test supposed to be warm and at 300 RPM

Motor is cold and not turning fast, but all cylinders are even at about 170psi.

My 1.6 with a lower compression ratio and a tiny motorcycle battery make 150-160. You may have blown all four cylinders some how.

Does he know if it was overheating or not when it "just died"? Any signs of overheating? Make sure there is coolant in the radiator? Checked the oil level/color/smell?

leak-down test?

Sorry, in my haste I missed the "1" it is about 170 across the board.

Oil is good, radiator was full when I got it. No signs of overheating.

Pulled the crank pulley to verify trigger plate. Was and is OK.

Did you 'test' or replace the main relay?

Yeah, big difference between 70 and 170 lol. The latter should fire.


Have you checked the fuel filter?

Replaced the main relay.

Didn't check fuel filter but I get a very fast 60psi in the line that comes into the engine bay.

Additional information:

The Red with Black stripe line that goes from the immobilizer to 3S on the ECU is +12 volts.

This seems to be the only connection between the two.

Swap a MAF?

Not yet. It's a bitch to get at below the TB on pressure side of turbo coming up from the IC. Is this the way the stock Mazdaspeed did it? Looks jerry-rigged.

No. That's some Mazda-Speed forum crap lol. It's intended to be suck-through and over on the driver's side of the engine bay.

http://www.nerocom.us/temp/car/miata4.jpg

Thanks.

Big difference! And they did some shitty wiring also.

Could be that pressurized air wiped out the MAF. I'll throw a good one on and try it NA before hooking the IC back up to it.

Ecu. My ecu died after compression test and has many of the symptoms you said. For example if I first crank car it almost seem to fire but then nothing. Then if I kept trying to crank I got nothing at all. If I were to cycle key off all the way it would try to start but then nothing. I replaced coils, fuses, tested cas, everything seemed fine. Turned out the ecu just died. Was not getting any fuel spray at injectors noid light conformed. Mine was a 94 but its worth a try to check ecu.

UPDATE: It is embarrassing, but perhaps someone will learn from it.

When the timing belt is in the correct position, the compression is 170; it will not stay that way.

The whole thing was a comedy of errors, I will list everything I now know, but the engine is f**ked.

Started off that my friend had his cousin install an oil filter relocation and oil cooler kit. He was proud of it and told me about it, but did not tell me when it was installed.

He was driving along and the engine stopped, towed it to a shop.

Shop did compression test and told him his timing belt was off and his engine shot.

Friend informed shop that it was a non-interference engine and that TB had 95K on it.

Asked me to do his timing belt and waterpump. I agreed and he towed it to my house.

I did the timing belt and waterpump and tried starting. Engine sounded like it dieseled and stopped.

Threw parts at it: Coils since resistance readings were different from each other, crank sensor, cam sensor, checked fuel pressure. Traced wires back to ECU. All to no avail.

Asked myself: "Did I fuck up?" Pulled everything apart down to timing belt and found that it was off. Corrected it and did compression test at 170 across the board.

Left off the alternator and AC belts, started for half a minute and turned it off.

Reassembled everything and started it, brought it up to temp and burped the water system.

Pulled on the throttle cable and it made a horrible racket and died.

Pulled it apart again and the timing belt is WAY off. Now one cam is locked.

Pulled off the cams and found some bearings on both destroyed.

Started following the new oil lines that had been installed and found that one pushed up behind the headlight was bent so tight that it was crimped.

Moral of the story, never assume.

Evidently the oil circulation was cut off, cam bearing seized and threw off the timing belt the first time when it stopped on him.. Anyone have an engine around?

ouch :ughug:

any updates?

sorry didn't see the end damn computer skills are off today

Ouch. That's a $2000 mistake.

Is anyone else shocked at how many oil filter relocation kit problems have been reported lately?

My goodness