Something tells me...
 

that this hole is not supposed to be there. Please confirm so I can tell the guy I want some money back for the useless block.

Picture of cylinder 4 from the bottom:

http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/7941/cimg0032.th.jpg

If you're looking at the same hole as me, thats where the bolt for the oil squirter goes, hard to tell from that pic because when I click on the link it doesnt let me see this picture larger

If you are talking about the big raggedy edged hole, it's the return oil passage from the head.

--Ferdi

No, not that hole. it's to the right of the oil squirter hole. It looks like it was just bashed out of the block, but I'm not sure how that would happen. The oil looked like poo when I drained it, so coolant was obviously mixing. I just figured it was a head gasket issue or warping issue that could be fixed with a grind and a thicker gasket if necessary, but I have a feeling the coolant was leaking in from this gaping hole.

My reply stands, you have nothing to worry about regarding that hole.

--Ferdi

OK, thanks. I didn't think that could have just happened, but the casting marks made it look like it wasn't supposed to be there. This is my first motor teardown, so I'm learning as I go. I need to get torx sockets to remove the head and check it out, too.

This timing belt gear is a PITA to get off. I've been working it slowly for an hour and it's still only half way off.

For the head, you need a 12mm 12-point socket, not a torx.

--Ferdi

Thanks again. I guess I didn't really look at them yet. It's pretty obvious there aren't only 6pts when you look at it. Good thing I didn't just go out and buy the sockets.

Everything looks good from what I can tell. How can I tell if the head gasket was leaking? Are there any other places I should look for coolant to mix with the oil? Oil pump maybe?

When I build the motor, I'll replace the oil and water pump as well as have the block and head milled flat if necessary. I want to make the motor as reliable as possible, so just replacing rods and pistons with forged, getting a port and polish on the head, hone on cylinder walls (almost all original hone marks are still there and no noticeable scratches, so don't think I need an overbore), ARP hardware, new gaskets and bearings. I want it to handle 300whp, but I'm only going to run about 250whp. My turbo won't handle more than that anyway.