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I did the coolant neck delete when the Qmax got installed, so used the small blanking plate. Which means the pretty big blanking plate was left over. The instructions say use it for a keychain, but I found two perfectly-spaced factory threads where it can be mounted just to the right of the radiator (RHD car). Now #1 son says that it is too "naff" (whatever that means). I reckon it is a Schwarzenegger version of an engine bay sticker:
Has anyone replaced the bleeder valve on top with a coolant temp sender? Just want to make sure it doesn't cause any turbulence in the coolant flow.
I think as long as you raise the front far enough above the rear to bleed it out the radiator you'll be fine. I've filled the car twice now with the Qmax installed and both times there was little to no air under the bleeder when opened. I also squeeze both radiator hoses a little and that usually gets any trapped air.
Just placed and order for the Qmax and a Supermiata Rad.
I saw the few posts about running the regular Stant thermostat vs the Super. Wondering which one I should run..
Instructional video mentions using the supplied Permatex 22071 gasket maker on the actual threads of the 5/8 barb and 1/8 npt. Is this still accurate? How much more or less effective would this be compared to using 59214 sealant on the threads?
I was not aware you could use gasket maker on threads.
Also, the instructions get a bit wonky when mentioning or referring to sealant on thermostat housing vrs main housing etc..
Instructional video mentions using the supplied Permatex 22071 gasket maker on the actual threads of the 5/8 barb and 1/8 npt. Is this still accurate? How much more or less effective would this be compared to using 59214 sealant on the threads?
I was not aware you could use gasket maker on threads.
Also, the instructions get a bit wonky when mentioning or referring to sealant on thermostat housing vrs main housing etc..
Instructions say to use Teflon tape or the liquid stuff for the npt fittings. The permatex is for the housing pieces to join and then the housing to the head instead of a gasket.
Instructions say to use Teflon tape or the liquid stuff for the npt fittings. The permatex is for the housing pieces to join and then the housing to the head instead of a gasket.
Apply a small amount of supplied sealant OR PTFE "plumbers" tape to threads, your choice.
If you do order the reroute I highly recommend removing the 3 ppf bolts and jacking up the small end of the transmission to give extra clearance between the motor and firewall, as mentioned prior in this thread.
In my case, 1995, I had to beat the EGR out of the way with it disconnected from the intake side. Although, most people installing this have this deleted already since going turbo.
Also, I did end up extending the wire for the stock temp gauge below the reroute housing.
If the reroute is done on the motor out of the car, do you see any issues with firewall clearance getting the motor back in? Any tricks or tips to make sure I don't bang this orange piece of fine art automotive jewelry ?
If the reroute is done on the motor out of the car, do you see any issues with firewall clearance getting the motor back in? Any tricks or tips to make sure I don't bang this orange piece of fine art automotive jewelry ?
Honestly I don't know. If you are worried about getting the motor back in then why not wait to install it until the motor is back in?
02-04-2018, 06:12 PM
Is this too "naff" of what?
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