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Yeah. I saw that earlier, but thank you for pointing it out again. Didn't want to have to resort to doing that just yet.
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Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1272713)
Grounding to the bolts that pass through everything won't do anything.
Here's the issue: The half of the sensor that feeds the gauge grounds through the sensor body itself. Sensor body threads into spacer. You have head --> gasket --> spacer --> gasket --> water neck The only way the spacer will ever work as a ground is if it happens to be touching one or both of the bolts. Holes for the bolts are bigger than they need to be, so that's not happening consistently, especially on our vibrating special motors. I'm not a fan. I'm swapping to the M-Tuned solution over winter. Been fighting this issue for about 2 months now and i'm too stubborn to run a new ground, because really, i shouldn't have to. I honestly can't believe it took me this long to figure out why my coolant gauge was acting so funny and only worked intermittently. The ground had never occurred to me because my gauge was working fine after the re-route install and it wasn't until I added the turbo kit that it started acting up. I guess I bumped it or something happened to where the ground path through the bolts was no good anymore. I'd like to pull the spacer out to drill and tap for ground but that seems like a PITA so my plan is to strip 6" or so (not sure how much it will take) of insulation off a wire and wrap it around one the mounting bolts (after removing) and make sure it is squeezed tight by the BEGI spacer. Then just connect that to the chassis and you're done. Wrapping all that copper around the bolt and touching the spacer should be plenty for ground. |
Pulling the spacer out takes like ten minutes. I spent more time trying to come up with a way to avoid the drill/tap method.
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1292511)
Pulling the spacer out takes like ten minutes. I spent more time trying to come up with a way to avoid the drill/tap method.
What I was suggesting should be sufficient for now and then next time I actually drain the coolant I'll drill/tap. I agree that it's the better solution, just not worth doing if you aren't swapping the coolant anyway, IMO |
First of all, I said 10 minutes to get it out. The rest of your statement makes you sound like a master fabricator of excuses.
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No need to get butt hurt. I was just suggesting that it's not necessary to spend the time now. Better to wait for when you're in there already. Maybe you have all the time in the world but I have 7 month old and do not. I like to use my time efficiently. You implied that it was a quick piece of cake and I just pointed out that's not the case.
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Originally Posted by jamesr242
(Post 1292506)
my plan is to strip 6" or so (not sure how much it will take) of insulation off a wire and wrap it around one the mounting bolts (after removing) and make sure it is squeezed tight by the BEGI spacer. Then just connect that to the chassis and you're done. Wrapping all that copper around the bolt and touching the spacer should be plenty for ground.
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