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Tstat question
This is a full track car.
My runs are not that long. I do run in super hot weather i.e. vegas in August. My coolant system will run from the rad to the waterpump out the back of the head to a Tstat/ temp gauge housing to the top of the rad. Short and simple. What Tstat do you folks run? What do you think I should run? stock, 160* or nothing?? Thanks Jeff |
180*f. Why run it any lower?
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Thats what I thought.
What is the deal with so many people running no tstat or just a 160 then?? Hopefully with the system set up and just water and water wetter I will stay around 180. |
The 160, I'm not sure. Some sort of perceived gain I guess.
As for no tstat, I ran my car like that for a while because I had 2 of them fail on me and seal shut. Not fun when you think its OK and you get stuck in traffic with your car overheating like hell. Took forever to warm up, but after that everything was alright. |
Originally Posted by TURNS101
(Post 583396)
Thats what I thought.
What is the deal with so many people running no tstat or just a 160 then?? Hopefully with the system set up and just water and water wetter I will stay around 180. |
Big hustler,
Thats a huge problem I have, I am sideways. I don get that air flow you do through the rad. So tempts can become a problem quickly, say at Irwindale. Full throttle 4th gear all the way around the bank sideways. It can get hot quick. |
Dont run a tstat then.
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Originally Posted by TURNS101
(Post 583517)
Big hustler,
Thats a huge problem I have, I am sideways. I don get that air flow you do through the rad. So tempts can become a problem quickly, say at Irwindale. Full throttle 4th gear all the way around the bank sideways. It can get hot quick. I guess starting at 120* water temps may work for your run...but what about longer tracks? I whore this everywhere but see the metal divider 1" from the top of the bumper mouth? http://i45.tinypic.com/sg0g8i.jpg That's the only air the radiator sees, and the car makes tons and tons of power, and can spend the day behind traffic and not overheat. Chamber, duct, belly pan, vented hood...win. Most of that you can do with $60 in plastic, a box cutter, straight edge, zip ties, and a drill. |
i agree with what hustler said.... even running the factory bellypan my car came down 1-20 degrees over not having it.
but that being said, since you are full standalone, you shoul dbe able to change what temp your car is defined as being warm-up enrichment so you can run a 160 if you are still overheating. |
Thanks for the pic Hustler. I think a hood would also help me s shit ton.
Seriously though, that doesnt look like much air. Dammm |
Are you running with a coolant reroute?
If so, try it without the t-stat. I've been running my car without one for more than 6 months without issues (if I don't use the a/c lol). I think you need to read these 2 threads: https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/c-condenser-questions-47053/ and https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...ight=extractor If I were you I'd do the Mini Cooper hood scoop and run without a t-stat. A local drifter (he has a Sylvia) runs that way and never overheats. BTW, we have 90 degree weather all year round. |
Well, its easy enough to try both ways ;).. Thanks everyone..
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