Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone know if someone has tried to put together a cheap alternative to the FM stroker design? I'm sure the biggest issue is the crank, since it's a custom design and can't be cheap.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Why not just go FE3 instead?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

What do you consider to be cheap?

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Cheaper than 5 grand.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

This is the cheap option. If running a non-miata block is an option.

Isnt there some other company that has a stroker setup? But under 5k? Good luck even getting a standard boost build for that cheap if you're paying someone for assembly.

There's always DIY, have a stock crank offset ground (my gut says 4mm is a lot though), and find an off the shelf rod with the new correct big end diameter to at least order bearing from, maybe it'll be the right length, else you'll be ordering custom, and get custom pistons.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

There's some company doing it for like 2 grand iirc

we discussed it last year I think

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

I figure I can do all the work myself. I have everything except transmission tools, I just figured someone may have already done the legwork. Sadly, a search has turned nothing up so far..

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Maruha's 2044cc (not 2.1L as they advertise it) stroker is ~$5000USD. There are no other kits available that are any cheaper...yet.

ctdrftna

iTrader: (1)

you could get some custom rods from someone that is not carrillo for cheaper, and maybe talk to moldex directly about the crank, and you can get the same pistions from weisco directly without the FM tax. maybe be able to get it for 4500.

IMO the .2L of displacement doesn't justify the 5k. You are never gonna break the stock crank. No one on this forum is going to break the stock crank ( with proper tuning). You dont need a billet crank untill you start breaking 650hp maybe even 750.

And what are you gonna gain ? an extra 25-50 ftlbs? For 5 grand its not worth it.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

You can drop in an FE3 for under 2 there's a handful of those on here

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Thats why I suggested an offset ground stock crank. You would need to do that math (and by that I mean simulation) as the 4+mm reduction in diameter will noticeably reduce the strength and stiffness of the crank.

The gain is more for the spool. The other turbo miata I've driven has an FM stroker and a disco potato on an FMII setup, it feels like the turbo really isnt there. I havent tuned my boost control enough to really see if 'stroker 99-00 + normal turbo' is better than VVT + EFR. My gut says the better turbo and VVT is going to be better than the stroker, at the very least I will be winning in the transients.

karter74

iTrader: (4)

McCully Racing Motors- Don't want a V8? How about a 2.0?

Still have yet to hear of anyone actually running one though.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

yep, that's the one I was talking about.

3k for the really simple version looks like.

I still don't see how its worth it, even at 3k

ctdrftna

iTrader: (1)

Yeah F**K sleeving. Nothing but a problem waiting to happen. The whole greatness of our motor is the stout iron block. Why on earth would you put a F**king sleeve in it. Might as well buy a honda and actually make power.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

Wait is your end power goal around 200? Because then you don't need to build a 1.8, you can just swap in a stock running one and boost it.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

That's really subjective, though. No offense, but I know for a fact that you don't care about low-end torque - I've seen your dyno graph. For someone who's got an EFR6258 and wants to add another 100whp without sacrificing any low-end, a stroker would let them jump to an EFR6758 or a 7163, make the same low-end torque, and add a lot of power up top. They might consider the extra ~$3k in the engine an acceptable price tag to get that mixture of characteristics. There are people out there who spend big, big bucks on naturally aspirated motors because they want a specific set of characteristics out of it. You don't have to understand or agree with those people (although I do), but you do have to at least acknowledge that they exist.

Comparing a sleeved BP block to a Honda block is just stupid. The Honda block is an open deck aluminum block, while a sleeved BP would still be a closed deck iron block.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

I agree with the boring via sleeving. If the sleeving is done properly there shouldnt be any issues with it.

The fact being that increasing the displacement via bore will allow you to keep some of the engines desire to rev out like its stock but give you more power. I realize that longer stroke generally means more torque lower in the rpm range, but I prefer to have similar engine behavior to stock. once boosted the difference gap in power becomes more of a moot point.


If i were looking for more displacement for the right reasons, this would be my first choice vs a stroker or offset ground cranks. You could likely have someone sleeve it without it being the guys in the above link for cheaper. You would just have to do some leg work in sourcing some sleeves of the proper material and finding a shop thats both willing and competant enough to do this work.

Check out this thread on honda-tech to see how sleeving works in the open deck hondas.... its more or less the same process for all engines, but there would be less to worry about with the closed deck design.
Block Sleeving and parts fabrication - Honda-Tech

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

I kind of like the idea of bore, sleeve, and stroke personally. That is, if it were in my budget.

Ryan_G

iTrader: (8)

I feel like this would be glorious.

Ryan_G

iTrader: (8)

Did anyone else catch this?