Universal cam/crank sensors
My cam and crank sensors are both doing the long, slow decline again. The cam sensor doesn't like revs above 6500 anymore. The crank sensor doesn't like to get wet.
Since new ones only seem to last for a limited period of time, has anyone tried replacing them with some aftermarket ones, like the ones from DIY Autotune: hall-effect-crankshaft-position-sensor? If they last longer and work more reliably, I'd be determined to install two of those somehow. I have an MS3X, so the challenges should be purely of a mechanical nature. |
I did not have good luck with (one of my two) DIY autotune stainless threaded hall sensors. I'm running their plastic/lug mount sensors currently. I do not have many miles on them so the jury's still out on them, but the max temperate spec is higher for the plastic sensor. Go figure.
MSD has sensors with built in LEDs that flash when it triggers, for quicker diagnosis when things go wrong. But they cost a lot more than the DIY. I would think OEM sensors are more reliable than aftermarket sensors however...? |
Something tells me the MSD sensors are from an industrial application. Might be called a prox or proximity sensor. We use a dick load of those things at work.
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And I'm pretty sure the DIYAutotune's can be bought from Newark Electronics for cheap, but in quantity of 10. I found the newark part number in some old Megasquirt documentation.
Buying the sensor off Amazon from DIYautotune was cheaper than buying directly off DIY's site. |
The Escort has a fancy Haltech sensor. It's worked just fine for the 10 minutes the motor ran before self-destructing.
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I am currently using, and have been using, genuine Mazda parts from the dealership. So my empirical evidence is that stock Mazda isn't all that great.
My MS can handle pretty much any input signal, but it may require a change on the PCB. So if I'm replacing my stock Mazda sensors with something else, all I'm asking for is that it lasts longer than a year. And I don't want to modify my MS, just to figure out that the sensor I'm using is no better than stock Mazda. You can also get Bosch sensors from VW and such for cheap. I believe they are Hall sensors too. They run around $20 or so. But again- nobody seems to know, if they are any good. |
NB cam sensors are notoriously bad, but the crank sensors are bombproof - between my own customers and all the 949Racing cars I've wrenched on, I've never seen one fail. I'd look at your ECU, not at the crank sensor.
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Could be an auto-x thing again. A few of the CSP and SSM miata have had crank sensor failures.
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We've had 1 crank sensor randomly just stop working. Not damaged, only 70k miles, no matter what car just wouldn't start. swapped it for another one, been running like a champ ever since.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1136265)
Could be an auto-x thing again. A few of the CSP and SSM miata have had crank sensor failures.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1136270)
What ECUs?
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1136255)
NB cam sensors are notoriously bad, but the crank sensors are bombproof - between my own customers and all the 949Racing cars I've wrenched on, I've never seen one fail. I'd look at your ECU, not at the crank sensor.
So I doubt it's the ECU. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1136255)
NB cam sensors are notoriously bad, but the crank sensors are bombproof - between my own customers and all the 949Racing cars I've wrenched on, I've never seen one fail. I'd look at your ECU, not at the crank sensor.
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1135967)
Buying the sensor off Amazon from DIYautotune was cheaper than buying directly off DIY's site.
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Originally Posted by stefanst
(Post 1135635)
My cam and crank sensors are both doing the long, slow decline again. The cam sensor doesn't like revs above 6500 anymore. The crank sensor doesn't like to get wet.
Since new ones only seem to last for a limited period of time, has anyone tried replacing them with some aftermarket ones, like the ones from DIY Autotune: hall-effect-crankshaft-position-sensor? If they last longer and work more reliably, I'd be determined to install two of those somehow. I have an MS3X, so the challenges should be purely of a mechanical nature. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1135965)
Something tells me the MSD sensors are from an industrial application. Might be called a prox or proximity sensor. We use a dick load of those things at work.
Spec sheet for poops and giggles. |
Originally Posted by Oscar
(Post 1136418)
I have some Omron proximity sensors laying around (god knows why), PNP, NO, 5-30VDC and threaded body. P/n E2E-X1R5F5-G. Any reason they can't be made to work with an MS instead of buying new sensors every season?
Spec sheet for poops and giggles. |
Specs for the ones I have:
Response frequency 2 kHz The response frequency is an average value. Measurement conditions are as follows: standard sensing object, a distance of twice the standard sensing object, and a set distance of half the sensing distance. |
Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 1136286)
It should work great for the CMP sensor. I am concerned about picking up the CKP signal though; the Miata OE trigger wheel is very thin. As the Mazda CKP sensor is generally robust, I'd recommend leaving it and concentrating on just replacing the CMP sensor.
Does anybody have any idea why the CKP would fail when I drive through a puddle? The connector looks good to me- but it is a 15 year old car.... |
As long as you keep the sensor type the same, Normally Open Hall Effect. I dont see why the settings would need to be changed at all, its more or less generating the exact same signal for the ecu. Might need some work if the leading and trailing edges look different.
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