But variables like higher oil pressure, times the engine is in over run instead of having load, if your idle is tuned smooth or rough, or even rich idle.
I see what your point is though

I daily my forged and balanced 1.6 with ported head, SS valves, cams, ID1000s, DIYPNP, 949 twin disc clutch with ceramic 4 puck friction plates at 21 psi with no problems. The E85 is a bit of a bitch cold starting with no idle control valve but it is what it is. It has had 23,xxx put on it in 10 months :D

For the cold, I did install a Moroso heating pad on the oil pan to preheat the oil a bit, the 20w50 is a bit thick when its in the high teens low 20's. I also keep a trickle charger on it at night. But again, that is because E85 and no idle control valve. I had a coolant heater installed also, but since it's not as cold I have removed that.

And this is a fully caged car with Richardson full containment seats, just drive it!
This is my **cough** street car lol
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391381889

Bearings don't wear faster when they are cold (at least not significantly). Pistons and cylinder walls do.

My distance example was just that: an example of how warm engines do not wear as fast as cold ones do. The distance of your commute doesn't change that. You missed the point.

A bike :party:

Seriouspost: It's just not great for the engine. You'll get the same number of commutes out of it that someone with a 20 or 30 mile commute would get, but you'll get a fraction of the total miles out of it before it wears out.

I get your point, but you cannot turn a trip to work and back into 1 trip of 5 times the total distance.

Someone with a 20mile journey will get the same amount of journeys out of their engine as someone with a 10 mile journey but total mileage will be more.

Whatever, both people still get the same amount of years worth of trips to work.

Dann

are you kidding? I used to have to walk 2 miles to catch a bus 30 miles to school (no joke, first three years of undergrad)

unless the weather is absolute garbage, i'd vote for bike or foot. save the car for picking up furniture at Ikea

Why the hell are you using 20w50? Especially in 20°?
How's the heating pad?

Laziness mainly, I have always run Valvoline VR1 20w50 and was going to go with something a little thinner because of the cold last time I changed oil but they didn't have anything in the VR1 in a thinner weight, so I said screw it. Heating pad works great actually, the thing turns over nice and freely. It's pretty funny, my car looks like it is on life support every night. I also keep a little space heater in it on a timer so when I get it the windows aren't frosty and it's warm. I never reinstalled my remote oil filter mount with the probe for my oil temp gauge so I can't tell you what the temps get up to. But the difference is night and day.

Come on man, didn't your see my thread about T6 being in sale?!

What is T6? lol Im just kidding. I don't use synthetics in me motor man. Only in the trans and diff. There is no rhyme or reason, I just don't. Never had a problem with the VR1 and it's what we have ran in our Legends Cars for 20 years. So I stick with it.

Got any pics of the thing? Also any idea how long it can run on a battery?

You're my hero! Mine will ultimately have a similar spec to yours apart from standard cams, only 12 psi, only a roll bar with the race seat only added for the track, and the luxury of a flex sensor for the E85 and maybe a more road friendly ECU. It also has very stiff engine mounts and Wilwoods. I thought I was being a bit hardcore using this as a DD until I saw yours. Good on ya!

I don't have any pictures of it, but it's pretty easy to imagine. It's just a self adhesive heating pad. I installed it on the bottom of the pan but towards the front of the engine. So right about the steering rack. I don't know about using it with a battery, they are usually all 120v that you plug into an extension cord.

Oh I know about stiff engine mounts ;) lol
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391479647

I'm going to politely point out your lack of undertray :party:

I know you like that ghetto shit lol

And my stock radiator! lol Car runs 180* on the streets all day long even in the summer. Gets to 200* after 25 minutes on track, but that was towards the end of October and then in November at Sonoma so it was pretty cool ambient temps. It will get a good radiator if it sees any track time this summer (hopefully its ripped apart before then though!). But even auto-xing in the summer it never got over 200*

1-800-Rad-iato(rs) plastic replacement lol I'm going to drive it down to Woodland Hills this weekend, that will be the longest trip. So hopefully it all goes well.

**disclaimer** I do not recommend a stock radiator for tracking, fortunately I was not in any type of nose to bumper drafting or heavy traffic so the car got plenty of airflow to keep it cool. I will eventually buy a TSE radiator. Hopefully for both cars!

Undertrays = overrated.
DD.ing on E85 aye?

Yes sir

x2. Planning to mainly use 98 for the road and E85 for the track with a flex sensor to tell the ECU what mixture the injectors are getting so I don't have to mess about with running the tank near-empty when changing over.

I was about to say that. I looked at remote starts in the past but if that's just going to wear the car more then I might look at block heaters.

wear on built motor
 

here goes just my two cents if anyone wants it .
if your gonna build a race motor for a daily that's fine be aware its gonna require a few extra tidbits for its survival. iv'e built a few vehicles for street and track .
you should use pistons with some type of skirt coating this will prevent some but not all piston skirt damage and scuffing of bores also select a piston with longer skirts most have short skirt causing that horrible knocking when cold . next if your machinist is any good hell ask you what type of use for piston to bore clearance and ring gap as well as bearing fitment all these things affect the longevity of your motor . another thing is oil i personally break my motors in with high zinc oils. then i run penzoil weight depends on clearances on motor a tight motor 5w30 slightly loose 10w30 then i switch to t6 rotella once broken in . if i'm gonna beat the bricks out of it i just run t5 15w40 run this in my drift cars and drag cars no problems at all. one more thing remember if its a race motor its gonna need maintenance if you daily it your gonna be putting minimum is pistons like around 50-60k my vr4 at 650hp wheel daily driven with ross pistons lasted 80k before piston skirt slap was un bearable pulled block sent out it went from std bore to .20 over this time i went wiesco with skirt coating and i gylcol coated block and bottom of pistons hope fully she will last 100k this time . hope this helps answer ant questions you had everyone on here seems to be very knowledgeable