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VVT Head removal
I just picked up an '02 VVT engine which died due to overheating. I'd like to build this engine so as not to take my car out of service while,I build. Not my daily driver and I'm in no hurry. My my first concern due to the overheating, is the head. I have never removed a VVT head and don't want to do anything out of sequence with respect to the VVT actuator. Can it be pulled off together with the valve cover? Pull it first? Is it all obvious as I do it? Recommended procedure for testing, then servicing the head. My power goals are in the ballpark of 250-275 rwhp with serious reliability. I have an FM2 kit managed with a Hydra 2.7. Build ideas are: Forged pistons and rods 8.5:1 compression ratio. Coolant reroute with pre VVT head gasket. Head to remain essentially stock? I don't feel the need for 7400 + rpm. Oil pump and damper? If not revving higher than 7400 ish will new OEM serve me? Do I need to go Boundary oil pump Supertech damper? Goal is stated power with long life expectancy for fast street driven and autocrossed car. Returning to first question, anything I can screw up with valve cover and head removal? Thanks, Paul |
Originally Posted by pmhellings
(Post 1481483)
I just picked up an '02 VVT engine which died due to overheating. I'd like to build this engine so as not to take my car out of service while,I build. Not my daily driver and I'm in no hurry. My my first concern due to the overheating, is the head. I have never removed a VVT head and don't want to do anything out of sequence with respect to the VVT actuator. Can it be pulled off together with the valve cover? Pull it first? Is it all obvious as I do it? Recommended procedure for testing, then servicing the head. My power goals are in the ballpark of 250-275 rwhp with serious reliability. I have an FM2 kit managed with a Hydra 2.7. Build ideas are: Forged pistons and rods 8.5:1 compression ratio. Coolant reroute with pre VVT head gasket. Head to remain essentially stock? I don't feel the need for 7400 + rpm. Oil pump and damper? If not revving higher than 7400 ish will new OEM serve me? Do I need to go Boundary oil pump Supertech damper? Goal is stated power with long life expectancy for fast street driven and autocrossed car. Returning to first question, anything I can screw up with valve cover and head removal? Thanks, Paul make sure to have a machine shop check head for flatness and deck it if needed, due to overheating. the rest of the build sounds good to me. |
I go one step further and only remove the banjo bolt in the back. Takes a little force to get the housing off the 2 o-rings, but that's like saying 5-30 oil is significantly different than...5-31
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Originally Posted by pmhellings
(Post 1481483)
I just picked up an '02 VVT engine which died due to overheating. Our built motor program rejects zero-compression overheated cores. I would not even use one in my own car. |
Good to know. Avoid overheated cores. Thanks Andrew.
Edit: is there any obvious visual sign that the engine has overheated if you're buying an engine already out of car from CL ? |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1481512)
50/50 shot the head is trash. You cannot simply deck the head back to flatness, and if you try to heat and straighten, it will be highly susceptible to warping in the future.
Our built motor program rejects zero-compression overheated cores. I would not even use one in my own car. Paul |
Originally Posted by phocup
(Post 1481514)
Good to know. Avoid overheated cores. Thanks Andrew.
Edit: is there any obvious visual sign that the engine has overheated if you're buying an engine already out of car from CL ? Paul |
A decent machine shop should tell you. With mine unbolted, the cams had spots that were difficult to rotate, indicating the bores were warped. That head is now aidan’s Manifold jig |
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