VVT Motor Builders: Need advice on getting motor running
 

Here is my story:
Car is a 1999 NB
About a year and a half ago I tuned my car on a Rev MS3, in prep for my supercharger. Installed ooobercharger and injectors, tuned and fine tuned for a year or so. I deviced I wanted a motor with forged bottom end..

I found a good 2001 VVT motor which I built up from barebones (CP 9:1 pistons and Pauter rods) as well as keeping the stock head.
Motor is swapped in, bolted up,trying to get running for the first time.

Is there anything special I need to do to get it to RUN? With a lower compression bottom end, it should run no matter what, just maybe a little crappy.

I do NOT have the VVT wired to my MS yet. But I shouldn't need to since it is defaulted to its retard state.
I have a thread running in the MS section, but I wanted to ask this question specifically to someone who may have had the same issue as I.

I am looking for any type of advice.

Post composite log.

Startup log and Composite log are here: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...l-issue-90779/

I have done everything mechanical I can think of. I have even pulled the valve cover off and triple checked valve shim clearance(which are perfect) and timing belt chrck.

Sounds like many people have asked you to check for spark and fuel in test mode and you haven't. I'd start there.

I do have spark and I do have fuel.
I ziptied my injectors to the rail, held them in the air and had a makeshift sprinkler. Spark is there, tested with a sparklight.

I guess my question is: Do I NEED the VVT sensor wired in for this thing to fire? I did alot of searching, and thought the idea was no.

There is no VVT sensor. There is a vvt solenoid.

In your thread you said you didn't have fuel on 2 and 3. Have you confirmed that the injectors are firing in test mode?

Take a picture of the 2 front cam lobes when the engine is at top dead center.

​​​​​pics posted to MS thread.

I guess the purpose of this post was to see if any others have had issues with any VVT swaps. And what kind of changes I should look for in my software.

This is how I got my Exocet for cheap, PO lit it on fire doing this. Definitely do not recommend that others do this. Get a noid light or something.

One thing to check is to remove the spark plug from Cylinder 1 and insert the dip stick into the spark plug hole. Make sure that when the timing marks on the cams and the crank are at TDC, the piston is coming up. You can have the cams at TDC, but the crank 360 degrees off. The crank rotates two times per every one revolution of the cams. You will align the cams to TDC, remove the spark plug from cylinder 1 and insert the dip stick in the spark plug hole, making sure it drops down and sets on top of the piston. You then rotate the crank and watch the dip stick, it should go down not matter what direction you turn the crank by hand. If the dip stick does not go down, you need to take off the timing belt, rotate the crank 360 degrees and put the timing belt back on and repeat the test above. The piston on cylinder 1 should be on the compression stroke and should be at the top of its stroke when the crank and cams are at TDC (Timing marks aligned).