Vvt na engine build question
Hi, I'm thinking about building my vvt engine for n/a 93 octane setup and I have a few questions before starting to buy stuff.
I have a few different plans in mind. First off, I will run a BE oil pump and Manley rods. 1) Valve springs: volvo, supertech singles or st light doubles? 2) Mill the head around .030"-.040" and keep stock pistons, get 10.5 jdm pistons from Mazda Comp for $45 each or go with Supertech 11.1? 3) should I keep the stock valves or go with +1 on intake side or both sides? Would the ST 11.1 pistons and the +1 valves make contact? 4) can I get away with new mazda main studs or should I get arp and modify the windage tray? I'm trying to build a lasting motor with a little more power and keep it very reliable. My goal is track days. Thanks |
All you need to know
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...g-ideas-83443/ |
This is just my .02 based on the research I have done while collecting parts for my current NA motor build, which is nearing completion (finally).
Originally Posted by btabor
(Post 1285579)
1) Valve springs: volvo, supertech singles or st light doubles?
Originally Posted by btabor
(Post 1285579)
2) Mill the head around .030"-.040" and keep stock pistons, get 10.5 jdm pistons from Mazda Comp for $45 each or go with Supertech 11.1?
I went ST with a coating. Consider 85.5mm if planning to stay NA.
Originally Posted by btabor
(Post 1285579)
3) should I keep the stock valves or go with +1 on intake side or both sides? Would the ST 11.1 pistons and the +1 valves make contact?
Originally Posted by btabor
(Post 1285579)
4) can I get away with new mazda main studs or should I get arp and modify the windage tray?
I decided against them, but opinions vary on this quite a bit it seems. Good luck!:party: |
Thanks for your ideas. I plan on taking the engine apart this weekend and if the cylinders and pistons look good may just put new rings on it, but the 85.5mm pistons sound good too. The thing that worries new about going with that size is that I would need a new engine block if I need to rebuild it.
What gasket do you recommend using with that size? I want a 94-00 head gasket since I have a coolant reroute. Sounds like I will go with the double light springs, not sure about the valve size yet. I am staying with the stock cams. How high can a vvt motor be reved with the light double springs? |
Originally Posted by btabor
(Post 1285608)
What gasket do you recommend using with that size? I want a 94-00 head gasket since I have a coolant reroute.
I ended up staying with an 84mm ST and less compression so that I can still add a FI/rotrex later if I decide I want more. If staying NA, I would have gone 85.5 for sure.
Originally Posted by btabor
(Post 1285608)
Sounds like I will go with the double light springs, not sure about the valve size yet. I am staying with the stock cams. How high can a vvt motor be reved with the light double springs?
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Originally Posted by OneTwo
(Post 1285587)
I bought some for my motor and my engine builder said that unless your planning to run billet caps or something fancy like that, we probably won't need them. That being said it seems like most of the very reputable builders like 949 and TSE run them.
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Any information about valve interference using +1mm valves and 11:1 ST pistons? What about +1 valves, stock pistons and .030" head shave?
Thanks |
ST have relief pockets large enough for +1mm valves.
But you need to check your own clearance anyway, don't trust a mix of suppliers specs, or internet "facts". |
I was debating which pistons to use on my eventual VVT build as well, and think I'll go with the JDM 10.5 stock sized pistons which previously I was unaware of. Only $32 each on MazdaComp! I figure I'll get them top and skirt coated and call it good enough. Funny though coating will cost me most then actual pistons.
Thanks for the idea of MazdaComp for the JDM pistons! Would there be any value in +1 valves with the 10.5 JDM pistons? From what I read probably not is my guess. |
I think I made a decision, I am trying for my wife not to get too pissed off for spending $ so here is my build idea.
Stock pistons/hone and rering- $125 + $100 hone Shave head .030" back cut valves- $300 BE street strip pump- $400 King bearings- $160ish Arp head studs- $110 engine gasket kit for 2001 plus 94-00 head gasket ~ $280 ST light double valve springs- $330 Valve seals - $12 Gates timing belt - $60 Skunk 2 TB - $260 Total $2137 Maybe ill buy a low mileage engine at the junkyard for $1000 and build this one over the year. |
What engine gasket kit are you ordering? That seems way expensive for them all. I know I recently picked up all the rubber gaskets needed to rebuild my motor for less then $100 from Rosenthal. I picked up both front and rear oil pan gaskets, oil pick up tube gasket, rear main, front main, cam seals, thermostat, oil pump o-ring. The only main one I did not get was VC. For the head gasket you can get those for about $25 shipped on eBay. The 1.8 MLS are exactly the same as OEM so you can save a bit there.
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Well, I got a 66000 mile 2004 engine for $800 today from the junkyard. I'll build the other one slowly. Next year is all about track time. But I will still build it.
The gasket kit I'm talking about is the one from mazda competititon. Basically it's every single gasket and oring on the whole engine. I'll look around before buying. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1285645)
ARP main studs are required above 250whp or 8000rpm. I lost a perfectly good bottom end at ~300whp to a broken stock main bolt. Run without them at your own peril.
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