|
You can have hard oil feed and oil return lines no problem. Same with water feed and return. If your turbo is moving independently from the motor you have an issue.
While motor is out I would upgrade the rods, pistons, oil pump. |
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 817286)
While motor is out I would upgrade the rods, pistons, oil pump.
|
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 817230)
I'd rather have braided stainless with fire-sleeve on my car
|
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 817286)
You can have hard oil feed and oil return lines no problem. Same with water feed and return. If your turbo is moving independently from the motor you have an issue.
While motor is out I would upgrade the rods, pistons, oil pump. |
Originally Posted by skidude
(Post 817116)
On a side-note... is there anything I have to do before I pull the motor out if I'm going to change the timing belt? My only concern is the big bolt on the front of the engine just spinning the engine instead of coming out. Do I need to loosen that before I disconnect the driveshaft?
|
Does firesleeve actually keep heat out or judt slow burn time and contain fluid?
|
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 817441)
Does firesleeve actually keep heat out or judt slow burn time and contain fluid?
|
Meh... just another thing to add to the upgrade list. Right now I've got the silver foil DEI crap. me thinks the sleeve is much better looking too
|
I'm in the same position as OP. Just about to pull the motor to fix some stubborn leaks.
So far this is my list. Compression test the motor before pulling it, if compression is good i will do the following: Clean the ever living hell out of the engine bay and motor New front/rear main seal. New waterpump/timing belt/seals Paint valve cover, new gasket New CAS O ring Pull off and Drill/tap oil pan return line(using ---- tastic stock greddy one), since i'm pulling the pan probably get it welded, reseal oil pan. Possibly motor mounts, will see how the oem ones are looking Delete AC, maybe powersteering as well. New turbo manifold gasket. Have turbo and manifold checked for flatness to run without gasket. If compression numbers come up shitty I will most likey do one of two things. 1) budget rebuild 1.6, forged rods, stock pistons, new rings, cyclnder hone, head gasket, etc. 2) try and source 1.8l to swap in, keep stock internals for now, build/buy turbo kit for it. What do you guys think? I'm thinking if i did a budget rebuild on my 1.6 with forged rods it will come out around the same price as sourcing a stock lower mileage 1.8, which would you guys choose in that case? I'm leaning towards my 1.6 with rods if it came down to it because I already have the turbo kit. I'm really not looking for huge numbers, i've been running this car at around 200whp for ever now and my plan is to tune for 15psi this summer and get around 240whp or so. |
Great "motor is out" time to do this:
https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-saved-posts-8/slave-cylinder-uber-clutch-line-dummies-20209/ |
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 817441)
Does firesleeve actually keep heat out or judt slow burn time and contain fluid?
|
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by fastivab6tg25mr
(Post 817277)
put the gasket up to the head/manifold and hit it with some paint to mark where the gasket is. used a grinder or cutter and remove material(no more than an inch in). it makes manifold and port the same size and shape as the gasket. this makes for better/smoother flow.
kinda like this but i use paint so i dont mess up the gasket...kind of a poor execution on this guys part but it gives you a good idea of what im talking about http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9qnGqSZysY my head https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326343783 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326343783 |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 818806)
I can put a piece on my finger and then attempt to light the piece on fire using my gas stove, and I can't feel any heat.
|
Originally Posted by fastivab6tg25mr
(Post 817277)
put the gasket up to the head/manifold and hit it with some paint to mark where the gasket is. used a grinder or cutter and remove material(no more than an inch in). it makes manifold and port the same size and shape as the gasket. this makes for better/smoother flow.
What do you think you do with the flow if you make a bulb on the effective runner (making the runner/port area bigger just an inch on either side of the gasket)? If you continue to make the area larger through whole runner you might be on to something, but them you should aim for a continuous taper all the way though. Or am I just being to ---- and thinking tuned tapered runners for N/A.? |
Originally Posted by phillyb
(Post 818807)
my head
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326343783 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326343783 |
tape off any holes that you don't want shavings in. that's what my dude is doing. he's also covered the the top of the head with rags
|
Originally Posted by skidude
(Post 818881)
If I do this, how do I keep the metal shavings out of my engine? I don't feel like stuffing some paper towels in the ports would be enough.
|
oh ----, i didn't realize what he was asking.
def take the head off to port it |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 819001)
It's not enough. Porting/gasket matching with the head on the motor is possibly the worst idea in the world.
|
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 818806)
I can put a piece on my finger and then attempt to light the piece on fire using my gas stove, and I can't feel any heat.
|
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:11 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands