StankCheeze

iTrader: (1)

http://www.acehardware.com/sm-rutlan...i-1445565.html

Apparently this **** works even better than the copper RTV in place of the turbo to downpipe connection. The only thing that worries me is that it's "cement" so it might permanently bond my downpipe to my turbo, haha. Has anyone used it and then later successfully separated the two?

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

I used it for my interim turbo-replacement-pipe solution and it sealed and held a gap from a very warped flanged amazingly well. I'm using it now on a fresh turbo install - turbo has seen about 30 miles (all with boost) and it's held up fine. I believe there is something on the tube about letting it sit for 24 hours after application- which I did. But I must say I've been impressed by it.

StankCheeze

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, I might try it and say **** sanding the flanges, as long as someone has gotten it to separate later without destroying anything.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you dont need no gasket maker, or gaskets for that matter, where you want to use this....

StankCheeze

iTrader: (1)

I'M TRYING TO BE LAZY HERE AND AVOID SANDING MY FLANGES OK

Mr. Miyagi trying to get me off my ***, geez.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

I only did it as a hack fix for that turbo by pass pipe because it was temporary. IMO there's no substitute for flat flanges when holding boost. Do it right, go flatten your flanges and avoid having to fix it later.

StankCheeze

iTrader: (1)

Fine, I'll break out a slab of MDF and staple some 800 grit to it. How do I gauge when my flanges are flat? If you give me a method that requires me to take the downpipe or turbo out of the car I'll ******* destroy you.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Use 200 for your flanges, they come out like glass. 800 will get you no where.

StankCheeze

iTrader: (1)

Another post I read said 800, but whatever. 200 it is! I'm also gonna answer my own question on how I gauge flatness, if the surface is uniform in appearance, it's flat, since I'm sanding with a flat block. Hurrrr.

I'll probably use the copper RTV on there anyway because I don't like dry humping and nobody has confirmed that pieces will eventually come apart when using this cement stuff.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

the cement stuff is really brittle. it's easy to crack it loose by just hitting the flange with a light hammer tap.

I haven't used that particular crap, but I've used muffler cement quite a few time and it works pretty well.

StankCheeze

iTrader: (1)

Nice. I guess I'll give it a whirl then. Hopefully tomorrow the car will be back on the road then if it doesn't rain.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Just replaced my cat and found a bunch of this sealant in the cat- just before the catalyst brick. And I was trying to be very careful about not using too much of it. Something to consider if you don't have an open exhaust route from where you use this stuff.

StankCheeze

iTrader: (1)

No worries there, they did away with emissions testing here a couple years ago

And I did use too much, even though I put on what I thought was a thin coat, it still squeezed out the sides a little bit :0