Hey Everyone.
Got my car tuned and the clutch started to slip at 185 or so. So i know that i need a new clutch for sure. I have not decided what clutch to get. Either cheap ebay or Spec stage two, maybe. But my question is, what else should i replace while i am in there? I know i am going to replace the rear main seal for sure, but what else should i replace? I did rebuild the slave cylinder already.

Another question, is that true that 90-93 dont have a true TPS? Can i swap a TPS from a 94+? I get a horrible idle drop sometimes the car stalls and it bothers the hell out of me.

Thanks!

 

I just finished retrofitting a cheap TPS from Autozone into the enclosure of the stock TPS on mine. Plus it looks completely factory. I plan on making a thread about how I did it and what TPS I used here in the next couple days.

As for the clutch, I'm in the same boat as you. I might be throwing a light weight FW in while I'm at it though.

 

Change ALL the seals. All the bearings (use OEM)
Change the clutch fork boot if it's wack.
Get the flywheel resurfaced if you dont get a new one.
Light weight flywheel is debatable..
I have a fidanza 8 pounder.. I love/hate it
Rev matching is easier, but the added noise is annoying as hell.
I also have a clutchnet "red" six puck clutch/pressure plate. took some getting used to, but it's awesome once you do. No problems at all since June.

Do a search for wells tps201 or VTPS, you'll be flooded with all sorts of TPS info, super easy and cheap.

 

This is what I tried to use but the TPS201 that is carried in all stores now is different from all images I have seen of it and from what is pictured on the stores site. Just something to watch out for when buying one.

 

In the meanwhile, find Joe Perez's "great AC faq" (whether or not you run AC), find the idle settings he recommends, and copy them to your msq. It helped stabilize my idle.

 

I haven't put any boost to the motor yet, but I bought the SPEC Stage III clutch. Was kinda expensive, but claims to hold 320# tq.. It was hard to get used to but once you do its not too bad.. Very grabby off starts, but its still sprung so not real bad.

Drive 3 cars on a regular basis though.. 2000 Protege with 200,000 mile stock clutch (I could operate the clutch with my pinky finger) a 1995 Miata with Spec, and 2006 Mazdaspeed6 with the stock bastard heavy depleted uranium clutch pedal... That makes for an interesting 10 minutes starting off every drive.

 

Just my

Try the SPEC Stage III clutch kit, it comes with everything and was the best quality setup that I have found... Just be sure the re-surface the flywheel cuz if you don't, you will have issues.

As for the lightweight flywheel, I put a lighter one in mine and liked it... tho it takes a little bit to get used to.

Oh, and roll with a stainless braided clutch line. Makes life easier for maintenance and gives a nice feel.

Good luck and cheers!

 

I haz the spec s3 clutch and I'm happy with it but I'm leaning toward the new FM clutch because non-metal clutches are so much easier on drivetrain.

 

I ordered mine from autozone.com..
worked fine

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t20954/
There!

 

um Russhin get your *** back in the garage you know what to do

 

thought i post a picture of my car.

 

Headlight covers need adjustment.

Sorry, **** like that bugs me.

 

bugs the hell out of me too. One of the screws is missing. I need to get a new one.

 

What are those red things in the nose?

You can just pull the head light lids up to get them to align with the hood.. worked on mine and a couple other cars too.

 

those are hella super tones. loud as ****! I do pull on the lids all the time, but when i open the light up the wind forces them down again.

 

Horns?? Goddamn

 

yep

 

Takes 20 mins to resurface a flywheel man lol

 

yeah, but now shop here in twincities will just do it when i come in. whenever i go to any shop here you have to wait a week for them to do anything. i hate that. i just want a 1.8l flywheel that i can fit right in.