Prospero

Hey there all,

I have been dealing with some idle issues and whatnot on my 02 SE and decided to head over towards the adaptronic forum.

Anyhow, here are some interesting bits of information that came from that conversation that could help others that are having issues:

Quote from: Prospero on Today at 10:30:01 am
1. In the calculation trace window, under idle (closed loop) I do not see my neutral safety or clutch toggle in the trace. Now on the other side if I goto the ECU data window, under digital inputs... I see the bits move when I press in the clutch or take the car out of neutral. Is there something that I am missing here that is wacky? (Reason I am looking at this is because I am having idle issues and am eliminating all possibilities up front. Also plan on using launch control and boost per gear soon.)

Are you using the latest firmware (1.0Q) and WARI (1.14)? I fixed some bugs with the calculation trace recently. If the ECU data screen is showing the input changing state (the flag for that input number, and also the 'CLUT' flag), then that means it is definitely working.


Quote from: Prospero on Today at 10:30:01 am
2. Under the road speed tab, what's the best method of teaching all of my gears? The manual was a little unclear about this and so I simply drove the car on the road and pressed the button for each gear as I was in the middle of the RPM range of that gear. Is this the right way to do this?

Yes, that is the correct way to do it.


Quote from: Prospero on Today at 10:30:01 am
3. Strange lean condition in open road driving. If I drive at 3-4k RPM for a duration of time, the AFRs will go from normal to god awful lean and cause the car to buck while in cruise. Now if I give the car a good bit of gas and change the kpa significantly, the issue goes away for a while... but always returns once I am cruising again. Has anyone else seen this condition and have a suggestion... it's really bothering me to see AFRs in the 17s at 3500 RPM?

It sounds like the closed-loop fuel control might be causing the problem somehow, perhaps the target AFR isn't quite right or the EGO sensor is being read incorrectly or something like that.


Quote from: Prospero on Today at 10:30:01 am
4. For the life of me I can't get my car to idle right after coming down from higher RPMs. The car will just go from 3000 past 1000 RPM and just die right off the highway on an exit ramp. Normally if I ease the car from 3k down to 1k RPM in gear... it will idle fine. But I can't figure out what I am doing wrong here. Does anyone have advice for me on how to kill this problem?

You may benefit from the new 'Dashpot' feature on the idle control page, which momentarily increases the idle effort on throttle-off in a similar way to the post crank idle-up. You should also set the recovery RPMs and efforts if you haven't already.


Anyhow... I hope this information is useful to someone other than just me

My kudos to Rob at adaptronic for taking the time to answer so many questions.

I have attached my current map. Feel free to comment or copy it.

110109 map pred adj data editing from logs adding fuel based on logs.zip

Cheers,
Prospero

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

1. Set your open loop idle setting to match your closed loop target speed in every temp cell. If the duty cycle in open loop is not close enough to the desired target idle speed in closed loop, there's no way to the PID to match your desired closed loop idle speed. In your map, the target idle speed vs. open loop duty cycle don't match at all.

2. what Rob said.

3. Corrections tab ---> set closed loop parameters ---> delay before closed loop ----> set to 0

4. Same as #1

sv650_ck

iTrader: (10)

Didn't this used to called "Calmdown Effort"?

Prospero

ismael, So what you are saying is that I will need to hand tune my base idle value as the car warms up and keep the idle speed the same as in the Target idle speed in closed loop? So in order to do this I will need to turn off my closed loop control first and then go from there? Or is there another way?

I just changed the delay to 0. I never even saw that before... can't wait to give this a try!!! Thanks for the help!

Cheers,
Matt

Prospero

I think it may have been.

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

Yes. Just put 0-0-0 on the PID to turn off the closed loop, apply some electrical load (high-beams) and set the duty cycle every 5ºC to match the idle speed you put in the target idle speed. Once you finished, try 2-5-2 for the PID, those numbers do the best in my car (NBB)

Don't forget the extra effort for electrical load/AC/after cranking. As you changed the base duty cycle, the extra effort could be way off the needed. You must set up this once you have the base idle value table correctly filled.

Prospero

Wow, I love my car again!

Okay, the changes from Rob and ismael made my car lovely. I've, thank God, been able to drive 200 miles and she's not stalled, bucked, or gotten pissy in 2 days now.

Thanks all for the help! Travis should update the base map with some of these settings since it will help with the idle issues.

Cheers and thanks again all!
Prospero

PhantomRoadster

Good stuff prospero. Could you repost your map with ismaels suggestions?

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

Sorry I haven't been around, this one slipt right through without me seeing it. Please post your map up, I'll see what I can squeeze off of it.

Best,
Travis