samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I'd put in the Walbro 190hp last week detailed in another post... here's the rest:

I bought a spare stock fuel rail from a parts car. There was some rust and gunk in the injector seats so I cleaned them out (1st pic, clean right, dirty left) with dremel wire circle thing. Then I drilled and tapped it. Nothing too hard about it. I center punched the end of the rail so the bit would have a nice place to start, then started with a small bit and worked my way up to what I needed which was 1/8. Then I used a 1/8 NPT tap. I didn't get it exactly straight, but good enough. It sealed tight and didn't leak for my 20mile test drive.

I disconnected the battery and popped the gas cap. I had a pile of rags standing by to sop up any leaked fluid.

Taking the stock fuel rail off was slightly more pain than I thought. I disconnected everything (IN YELLOW) around the rail, including the hot water feed block on the manifold (I don't see how you could get the rail off with that thing on), the PCV valve and line, and that damn electrical ground engine hoist hook that bolts into the CAS. I popped off all the injector wires and disconnected the fuel lines at the fender but not from the rail so that I could just lift them out with the rail. Also disconnected the vacuum feed to the stock FPR. Even at that, you've got to wiggle the thing out. Once out, I dumped the remainder of the fuel on my feet, so be careful.

I had the DF rail with 1.8's all ready to go but noticed that the injector seats in the block had rust and gunk in them, so I strategically placed the Shop Vac wedge attachment in real close and scraped with a dental pic... got as much out as I could and was positive I didn't push any into the manifold. Then I finished with Qtips in there as best I could.

I connected the new fuel lines to the rail before installing it for obvious reasons... no room once installed. Then I lined up all the injectors and slowly worked it into position... made sure to be patient and push gently. A little care and they all lined up eventually. I screwed the rail down and then went to work on the AFPR.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

The AFPR was pretty easy. I took this opportunity to remove the rest of the AC system in the passenger footwell. I still need to get the air connecting tube for back in there, but it can wait. I also need to get two rubber grommets to plug the holes left by the AC lines through the firewall. But, I drilled the holes for the supplied AFPR mount and mounted the thing in the only spot on the firewall where it can go. Then I routed the lines from the rail and the return feed.

Reconnected the battery, pulled the Bipes cable and cranked it for about 15 seconds just to for luck. I reconnected the Bipes and it started instantly. It runs like before, no change at all. Nothing leaks.

I've got a fuel pressure gauge all ready to go that I can splice into the fuel feed line in about a minute (second pic laying on the manifold)... but not a permanent install like I'd originally thought of. I just didn't want to tap the damn thing again to mount the gauge on the front of the rail.

The third pic is "painted" with the lines.
Yellow= Dual Feed to rail
Blue= Return line to AFPR
Green= Return line from AFPR to gas tank
Red= Vacuum line, same source for stock FPR and BEGI AFPR.
Brown= Gauge and hose to splice at the feed at the fender, circled.

Mach929

iTrader: (3)

looks good, similar to my setup i have. If i were to make one i'd make the barb on the back of fuel rail on a 90 degree angle to make install the fuel line easier. and i agree, i've done fuel injector/rail jobs before but the miata is a pita.

turbored

Just finished my Dual Feed Conversion including upgrading to 1.8 injectors. A few thoughts.

1) I tried to figure out a better routing/fitting method than Samnavy's but that was the best way.

2) Tried to put a 90 Degree angle as per Mach929's suggestion, but the ground was in the way, so went straight out the back like samnavy.

Parts needed for dual feed rail on a GReddy'd 1.6

1) 18" 5/16" Fuel Injection Line ($7/ft at NAPA)
2) 5/16"barb-1/8"Male NPT Fitting
3) 3 more fittings and 1/8"Female NPT "T" Fitting or a 5/16" "T"
4) 1/8"NPT Tap
5) Drill
6) 4 hose clamps
6) 8mm wrench to remove hot water feed
7) 12mm wrench to remove 2 bolts holding rail
8) Drill bit to drill hole for tap
9) JB Weld to seal all threads.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Check out one of the pics above. Is the "ground" that you mention attached to the metal bracket with the loop in it. I just got rid of that whole bracket and put the ground around the closest valve cover bolt. Check out the last two pics above, they both illustrate that. I think that hook is to lift the engine out with... but I didn't see why the ground NEEDED to be on it.

I also didn't use JBWeld. I used a liquid silicone or teflon goo in a bottle the guy at the hydraulic store gave me. He said whatever I do, don't use standard plumbers white teflon thread tape.

But on with it. Lets see some pics even though they probably look very simlilar to mine.