When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Computer went under the knife yesterday.
I think this is it... Just gotta add some PT nuke to the loop. Probably drain / refill it in a few weeks just for good measure and run it. I'm pretty happy with the final outcome.
Computer went under the knife yesterday. I think this is it... Just gotta add some PT nuke to the loop. Probably drain / refill it in a few weeks just for good measure and run it. I'm pretty happy with the final outcome.
So i switched up my build. Had a buddy looking for a system so i took the opportunity to sell him my 4790k/mobo/ram and now I am running an r7 1700 at 3.9ghz with an asus prime x370-pro and 16gb corsair vengeance 3200mhz ram.
BRO'z,
I'm gonna need a new tuning laptop soon. Current aluminum case dell latitude has been glorious these past 2 years, but getting a bit worn and I don't want to wait for the day it finally gives up the ghost.
does anyone know things and stuffs about laptops around here?
mandatory must haves:
-at least 2 USB 3.0 or better ports, that never have problems or issues
-physical, separate mouse buttons. none of that "one piece with the mouse box" crap
-sturdy construction
-backlit keyboard would be pretty nice too
The programs it would run would be Tunerstudio, Megalogviewer HD, and various other programs very similar to those two. So it doesn't need 5 billion gigs of memory, or some insane video card for gaming. Just needs to be really solid and reliable.
What brands do y'all recommend? I've found a couple Lenovo's with physical mouse buttons. I like my current Dell, but the recent latitudes I've looked at absolutely suck. I even tried one, and it was a giant hunk of junk that was heavy, cheaply built, integrated mousepad buttons (hate those with a passion), and generally full of fail.
the mousepad requirement is not a random preference, it's an absolute nightmare to try to tune with the clickfail setup. I've tried it, drove me nuts
clicking multiple cells on a map, dragging, and selecting basically impossible
Broz: the Corsair AX850 (80+ Gold) in my desktop died yesterday. I'm somewhat pissed off because this thing is (IIRC) only a couple years old, and I bought it retail at Fry's and I remember it being closer to $200 than $100 at the time.
PC Parts Picker estimates I'm at about 381W @ full tilt with this rig, and the SeaSonic website calculator says 370W. Ancient wisdom from the before times was to take estimated wattage, double it, and then buy the next size larger PSU. This is how I ended up with an 850W the last time. I understand the theoretical benefits of this calculation, but my stupid expensive (at the time) 850W didn't last 2 goddamn years, so fuckall to using that process again.
This time around I'm buying a genuine SeaSonic, most likely the Flagship PRIME or FOCUS Plus in "Gold" flavor but I'm trying to figure out if 750W is the right way to go, or if a 650W is more appropriate. Interestingly enough, the SeaSonic PSU calculator I mentioned before actually recommended the 650W. Remember this is a MiniATX case/motherboard with a single PCIe16x slot, so its never going to get SLI. The high/low pricing across the 4 models I'm looking at is $80 to $100 after rebates, so its not like I'm going to save a ton of money going with a 650W over a 750W. At this point I want a quality unit that will last a while that is appropriately sized for my use.
So what do you guys think: 650W or 750W, and why? Try to convince me with you flawed logic and tribal knowledge.
07-30-2017, 12:41 PM
1
