triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Welcome to the SSD club budeh.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Is that from post to login screen? Seems kinda slow.

I love / hate win10.
I'm having the worst audio issues. Cracking / popping. I've tried two audio cards and a couple drivers for each. No change.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

that was like: i hit reset start now, and it was 20sec until i could go back to internet and post.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Oh, that makes sense.

I'm so glad i made the move to an SSD. I waited to long.

Current specs:

GPU: EVGA GTX 980
Processor: AMD X4 965, H50 AIO cooler
Motherboard: Asus M4N98TD
Memory: 16gb Corsair DDR3
HD: 500 GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO + 2tb physical storage
PSU: Antec 1200w
Case: Ultra Aluminus (2006, retro as frig)

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

I decided to compare our cpus. I recently acquired a amd phenom ii x6 1065t to replace my older amd athlon ii x4 620.

cpu-world.com - amd phenom ii x6 vs amd phenom ii x4 965

On the OEM scale, I hardly squeak by with my turbo & larger L2 But probably trivial differences if you're overclocked & on water lol. Plus my Mobo is stuck to ddr2.

So far, going from WinXP on a physical drive to win7 64bit SSD has been night & day. Apparently this 'new' cpu I got will be more than enough to keep going. I don't have to upgrade anything else, just drop it in

cpu-world.com - amd athlon ii x4 620 vs amd phenom ii x6 1065t


GPU: MSI GTX 750 Ti
CPU: About to install, amd phenom ii x6 1065t (Currently: amd athlon ii x4 620)
MOBO: Pos Gigabyte GA-MA74GM-S2
MEM: 4GB (2x2GB) G.Skill DDR2 1066 (stupid mobo)
HD(s): OS: Samsung SSD 850 Pro 256GB (3 Gbps sata) Games: WD Black 750GB
PSU: ocz zt series 550w
CASE: Early 2000's apevia x-dreamer case



Mine is now sporting a full 80mm Noctua filtered fan system (6 total & silent) + a GELID blue touchscreen 6 fan controller. Side window fan became filtered cold air intake for stock cpu cooler. Top fan sits outside the case extracting bc 550w fitment, Has metal chrome grill guard for teh blingz. Rubbery silicon gaskets for extra silence dampening everywhere.

I got the fan controller & fans right before frozencpu died a tragic death , and my front temp display died years ago, it was too bright anyways.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Holy **** I had that same case. How is it still in one piece? I lost all the little chrome doodads that hold the plexi on because the door is made of the thinnest sheet steel ever! Punched the front panel out plugging something in, temp display died with the cheap power supply it came with.

The terrible, terrible memories of those dumbass blue leds on the front. Something went wrong and the computer turned on mid-night to wake me up like vegas. I ripped the whole plexi front off in rage mode.

lol, good times

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

It's been mostly sitting on the same desk I've had for years lol. My front plastic panel still snaps in place like new

To optimize my fans I covered the floppy disk opening with blue painters tape

Edit* Mine never came with blue leds, it had a red/yellow/blue led window fan though . And at one point it was all flashy with blue cold cathode tubes & 2 rear blue led transparent fans - That quickly ended.

On an older MB & CPU I had a 3 blade thermaltake tornado of death for a cpu cooler. It claimed many fingers.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

New cpu installed, definitely gave my system a boost. Everything 'feels' snappy now, improved load times as well.

AMD Phenom II x6 1065t + Arctic mx-4 thermal compound + OEM Heatsink & Fan



& Current temps.



Specs wise, I have a lower max TDP. 800Mhz 'idle' & lower temps compared to my old Athlon II. The ability to boost up to 3.4Ghz when needed is a very nice feature

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Do a burn test, not idle temp test

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

This was about 15mins total in Prime95 64bit.

10mins or so in I got this error.

[Thu Jan 21 22:53:45 2016]
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4

My #5 thread stopped.



Temps peaked but were staying around 145-150F after a while. I watched to see how quickly the temps drop.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

You guys ever thought about using a car radiator for a cooler for a water cooling system?

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

It should be mounted on the side of the case and have a spal fan attached

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking of these 3 foot tall by 6" wide radiators standing straight up next to the computer.

DaWaN

A heater matrix works really well for cooling a PC. I used to run a Suzuki Alto heater matrix for cooling my PC. This was in the era of AMD Athlon's rocking Socket A's, DDR1 and GeForce FX graphics cards though. After the system leaked onto my graphics card I just stuck to air cooling: modern heatsinks with heatpipes became so good, there is barely any advantage in running water cooling these days in my opinion.

My PC is getting old, but still runs all my games (Assetto Corsa, iRacing, Wreckfest, BeamNG Drive) quite reasonably. I will probably upgrade when I buy an Oculus Rift.
Specs I have now:
Core i5 750 overclocked to 3,3GHz with Scythe Mugen cooler
ASRock P55 Deluxe motherboard
8GB DDR3
GeForce GTX560Ti 2GB
480GB Crucial MX200 SSD
2TB Seagate HDD
Coolermaster M620 PSU (really old!)
Fractal Design Define R4 case
Logitech G27 Wheel
HP LP2475W Screen
5.1 Surround receiver w/ huge speakers

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

You just need a SSD & 9 series gtx and you're good for a while. Maybe a new psu Check your voltages. I hear it's still going to be a while before developers really start taking advantage of VR.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

wouldnt that be sweet? A fully non conductive liquid?

On a side note i had a buddy that used epoxy as thermal paste. When we took his **** apart it was covered in some clear glue material.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

I hear the oil is pita to work with & change out.

Looking up more info on my northbridge, 244F max temp concerns me - It's held down by plastic tabs. Anyone have experience with these? Do they just pop out? Twist?



I have a suspicion that my northbridge paste or thermal pad has been cooked to oblivion over the years. My Athlon II thermal paste was broken down pretty good when I swaped it out last night.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Yeah they should just pop out. look at the underside of the board, it should be a flared and you just have to squeeze it with pliers and it pops off.

Whats wrong with the 244f max temp or you mean you reach 244? Yeah thats crazy high. Theres a good chance it doesnt have thermal paste, it has that thick doublesided thermal tape that they put on ram chips. If you take it apart i recommend stretching the springs a bit as well to give it more pressure.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Why would you need to change it out? We leave the oil inside electrical transformers there for the life of the transformer, which can be 100+ years in some (rare) cases. If it gets dirty / dusty, you can pump it through a filter.

But agreed that it's messy. Use 3M Fluorinert instead.



I can't see quite enough detail. You'll be able to tell more from looking at the underside.

Many of them are of a two-piece construction, where the center pin just pops out like the fasteners used to hold the fender liners in the Miata.

Some are one-piece, and can be pushed out from the back by compressing the three/four tines at the end.

Relatively few screw in, and these usually have something like a screw head on the top so that a screwdriver can be applied.