This looks great. Has there been any problems at all?
My friend just painted his bumpers/CF hood w/ the spray cans, and that was 500 dollars in paint/clear/etc. |
Hmm.... my classic red is also looking quite sunburnt pink. I'm going to be respraying in the next month. Maybe I'll try something like this....
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I've got an 86 trooper that I'm going to start doing bodywork on one day. I think every piece of the body has either a dent or rust except the new door I just put on it, since the old one fell off. Whenever I get it ready for painting, it's getting the Aussie Special. Thanks for taking the time to do a thorough writeup. I suppose I could do a writeup on my direct port nitrous install one day to contribute to the forum.
I have a question for you though. I read all 7 pages and it seems you don't primer any bondo work before painting. I'm planning on using enough bondo on my trooper to justify buying stock in it, so I'm thinking I'm going to primer the whole truck before painting it. That way, any imperfections will show before I begin applying the finish paint. Is this a good idea or not? FWIW, I've probably got around 150 hours of experience painting houses, interior walls, decks, concrete slabs, boats, and other projects with a roller, but I've never tried painting a car with one, though I've considered it before. Thanks! |
i say use some thick filler primer to cover any sanding issues. I thought I was careful enough when i did mine, but apparantly that wasnt enough.
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If you're using a lot of bondo then I would agree that using a primer would be a great idea. Just make sure that you use the correct primer for your chosen top coat.
And get really particular with your prep work. The slightest imperfection will stick out like dogs balls with your top coat. |
Well, I'm planing on using the Brightside that you recommended. They also sell a primer for the brightside paint. Should I use their primer? I'm sure it's fine for their paint, but I don't know if it can be painted over bondo.
I'm definately going to try to get it perfect before I put the finish paint on. That's one reason I was wanting to prime the entire truck first, as any flaws will show up when the primer is applied. When I paint, I usually will prime the surface and then get some 500 watt lights out shining on the work. This seems to be a good way to find any imperfections before the topcoat is applied. |
nice
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Has this thread gone dead ?
Any updates out there ? |
I know this thread hasn't been touched in a while but any long term updates? I might try this on my Saab...
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Originally Posted by thepope540
(Post 215309)
I know this thread hasn't been touched in a while but any long term updates? I might try this on my Saab...
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Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 215358)
you and grassroots motorsports. the last 2-3 issues go into much detail about painting a saab baby-shit brown with spray cans.
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pretty much all the saab ones... i forget what issues and dont feel like digging next to my toilet at the moment. here's their blog though:
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/new...aab-99/page/6/ |
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 215630)
pretty much all the saab ones... i forget what issues and dont feel like digging next to my toilet at the moment. here's their blog though:
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/new...aab-99/page/6/ |
I love grassroots. I think I am due to renew my subscription... I was more looking for info about the Brightside paint jobs though.
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I'm about to do mine. I've done solid before with no problem any suggestions for doing two toned? Racing stripe, or otherwise?
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thats phat paint my car for 100bucks lol
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amazing. I would have lost a ton on money on a bet that any of the good jobs wern't done by air.
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I'd have done mine long time ago if I can find a place that has no dust flying around.
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Nice job, looking good!
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Any updates ? Any pics out there ?
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