Ahh, yeah sounds like you're talking about Mike. My big mods are in my signature. It's a daily driver/streetcar, I doubt I'd make half a lap on a track before my tires/brakes/cooling gave up on me.

Impressive numbers...but seems like your quarter is slow for your power to weight ratio..hows your 60 foot?
Also you should totally take me for a ride sometime.still never between in a turbo miata. But I did build a lt1 rx7 that was badass. Lol

Utah I think his name was mike. Has a blue 350 and His wife races too. And his brother has a mini cooper. He was showing me youtube videos of the events. I met him when I had my mustang still

Am I the only one reacting to the fact that you're building a track car and planning to boost it, and the first thing you do is to remove the tow hooks? :P

It depends on the track but most HPDE events specifically require Miatas to have aftermarket roll bars. It also considerably stiffens your cars floppy body.

And watch this:

Lol I have a car dolly and a expedition.... I would just use that when I break down...but its more of a street car. But ot will be tracked and autocross sometimes. I would not classify it as a track car. Wasn't my first mod and I understand out possibly didn't help much (6 pounds if I remember right) but hey sometimes I just look for excuses to work on my cars.
But yeah I do think I'll get the roll bar lol. I hope I can still put up my to from driver seat. I like how all I got to do is slow down to 30 or 40 and reach back to pull the to up.

I think both Bossfrog and Harddog have double hoop rollbars, that allows you to reach back for the roof while you're driving.
If I remember correctly, they also come with a harness bar, either as standard or as an option.

Thanks I think I'll make that my first high dollar mod. I do like the look of a double hoop bar..the one in the video seems allot more substantial thow. Wonder how the double hoop would have held up in a 100+ mph crash. Seems like the hoops would be the best of both works though Can't have it all.

Like these guy said if you want to track the car with turbo you need a serous turbo manifold and hardware to do it. I spent $3000.00 on just this manifold and turbo alone.

Pretty sure the big hoops provide more protection and strength, don't quote me on that though. Less bends, more bar, more triangles, etc.

lol @ the logic of driving a car on the track without a roll bar because you're worried about getting rear-ended on the street. Please, come the fuck on. If you're going to get rear ended, get out of the way. If you roll the car, you will fucking die. Get one of the low roll bars if you're worried about it. I have a low-bar in my track car for some reason, I'd like to get rid of it.

??? Not worried about being rear ended... Was just a factor I was weighing into justifying cost. But upon further research even if I only do a few a year its worth the $500 just in case. No need to be all hostile and swear at me just looking for advice from experance. Thank you soviet for the video this was helpfull.

hey dont get hard Peter; you are a squid=limp
the hustler hassles e1
his way of showing himself he can still get a hard on
then he stumbles off and pees on his wheels

Lol I have no idea what you just typed...but ok

If you're willing to forget about track driving - anything more aggressive than autox - then putting on just a power system will make you quite happy. If you're thinking even just a little bit about the track - then you absolutely must heed the warnings of all of the track guys that have posted above.

So: street only? Put 5k into power adders and beat the shit out of mini-vans and SUVs
any track? forget the power adders until you've taken care of everything else.

Ok I think I made up my mind on what I want...
I'm thinking like like in this order
1. Roll bar
2. Sticky tires
3.coil overs (maybe used if I find a good set cheap)
4. Sway bar end links (clean up and paint factory roll bars)
5.mspnp and bigger injectors (possibly used ms)
6.flyin miata happy meal clutch kit (new trans fluid same time)
7. Aluminum radiator and coolant re-direct mod.
8.Start sorcing turbo parts as im driving and tuning it na
9.once I have turbo hardware piled up in the garage put it on and tune for boost
10. All the while keeping a eye out for a torsin for decent price

I'm thinking I can get to step 6 and be around $3-$4k or so depending on what I find used ect.
Then I'll just need turbo, manifold, exhaust, intercooler, piping, oil plumbing ect.
might be a little over budget but I'm spacing it out rather than tarring it down and doing it all at once.

I'm going to do auto cross this year maybe track next year.....I can always turn down the boost for a manageable car at the track.

Ftfy:

The major issue I had with your list is:
A. not replacing stock bars
B. wasting your time painting the bars.

Brand new front/rear set from FM is $200, I don't see why you shouldn't budget them it. They make just a big a difference as coil overs in terms of drivability, and you'll be wasting half the potential of most coilover setups if they're used with stock sways.

O wow I didn't realize they where that cheap....lol ill just replace them then. Thought the set would run me another $600 or somthing.

Nope, cheapest ones I've seen for any car. My DD lancer is something like $200+ a piece.

Don't think FM is your only option though, you can piece together different sets for varying prices, all about $100 a bar, although the FM package works very well together, less thinking required.

Looks like you're figuring it out. I'm selling some shit you might be interested in.

https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-parts-sale-trade-5/greddy-kit-ms-diypnp-braineack-i-c-bov-h4-hellas-more-61855/