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'01+ bumper "mouth" cool radiator better than 99/00?
I may have the opportunity to swap an 01 front bumper cover with my '00.
Does the 01 bumper mouth provide better airflow for the i/c and radiator? |
The orifice makes little difference from what I understand about aero, you're better off ducting the front of the radiator.
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Not enough difference to notice any improvements I would imagine. But I think it looks cooler for sure.
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The 99/00 and 01+ still use the same air diverter behind the bumper, so my guess is its mainly cosmetic. I have an 01+ bumper sitting in the garage waiting for me to arrange for paint, but my motivation is a MSM headlight upgrade rather than cooling. Time and money spent on ducting will probably be more effective than a bumper swap, just my :2cents:
If you need measurements or something, let me know. |
Increasing the orifice will not increase pressure on the front side, we've been over this.
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Ducting and hood air release increase flow
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The overall function will be about the same. As others pointed out the little airdam inside is the same one for both styles.
However there's a reason both my NB1's have this swap done: It looks LIGHTYEARS better. |
Originally Posted by jacob300zx
(Post 770568)
Ducting and hood air release increase flow
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 770572)
however there's a reason both my nb1's have this swap done: It looks lightyears better.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 770576)
I tried to tell you fucks this before you hole-sawed JZ's bumper.:fawk:
Then why/how this? https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...1&highlight=4c |
Originally Posted by BarbyCar
(Post 770783)
There could be many reasons: no ducting, bad ducting, leaky ducting, no belly pan, cooler air, driving less aggressively, less traffic, spark angle changes, fans turning, and unknown. It's pretty widely accepted that increasing frontal area or the heat exchanger opening on a Miata will not increase the pressure differential. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 770791)
fuck shit ass ---- bitch
There could be many reasons: no ducting, bad ducting, leaky ducting, no belly pan, cooler air, driving less aggressively, less traffic, spark angle changes, fans turning, and unknown. It's pretty widely accepted that increasing frontal area or the heat exchanger opening on a Miata will not increase the pressure differential. The slight temp reduction I saw was on back to back lapping sessions the same day (within 40 minutes) with the holes open and then taped over. Other measurable parameters unchanged. I wouldn't say this was a scientific test but I wouldn't ignore its numbers either. I also wouldn't make this mod based on 4C improvement either. |
1 Attachment(s)
Race cars do it like this (note the nice curving contours):
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1315941484 That increases the efficiency of what you have without the addition of more frontal resistance. You see this in just about every race car out there. |
I suspect holes-in-the-bumper works if you don't have the above ducting.
Think about it - when air flows in a ducting-less setup, in the mouth, the air in the upper part of the radiator, behind the bumper metal, and behind where the holes in the above pic are, is gonna be pretty dead. The above ducting solves that issue. The TDR ducting / paneling that comes with the ic approximates this. Plus their tube/fin i/c has far better flow: See results: https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...&highlight=tdr As for ducting vs. holes, if the rear of the radiator is flow challenged (e.g. no hood vents), I think theoretically the ducting is better. With hood venting, I don't know. :) |
Originally Posted by BarbyCar
(Post 770783)
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 770791)
fuck shit ass ---- bitch
There could be many reasons: no ducting, bad ducting, leaky ducting, no belly pan, cooler air, driving less aggressively, less traffic, spark angle changes, fans turning, and unknown. It's pretty widely accepted that increasing frontal area or the heat exchanger opening on a Miata will not increase the pressure differential. Here's some info on airflow through radiators.
Originally Posted by Race Car Vehicle Dynamics Section 15.9- Applied Aerodynamics
Three parameters are defined which "closely relate" to the cooling performance of a radiator, namely,
1. Matrix (core) pressure drop coefficient, Kp=(delta)P/.5(rho)Vf^2 where (delta)P is the static pressure drop front-to-rear across the radiator and Vf is the velocity of air across the radiator. Thus, 0.5(rho)Vf^2 is the dynamic pressure (kinetic energy) at the face. 2. Velocity ratio Rv=Vf/V0 where Vf is defined above, and V0 is the free stream velocity 3. Drag coefficient of the radiator, Cd=Drag of radiator/(0.5(rho)V0^2*A) where A is the radiator face area. In general, a large Kp (pressure drop across the radiator) and a large Rv (velocity ratio) produce the best cooling performance. What does that mean in real world terms? To get the best, consistent performance out of a radiator, force as much air THROUGH the radiator (not around, THROUGH) at as high of a pressure as possible and allow it to leave as easily as possible. Opening up large holes in the bumper does not help with either increasing incoming velocity or pressure. |
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