levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Driving in this morning 64* ambient temp my water temps wont go below 200*. Watching ms the whole way in my temp would consistently go from 200-215 then back to 200. It did that the whole drive (22 miles).

I've only driven the car a few timesd since getting it put back together. I noticed this the other few times so last night I went a put the under tray back on hoping that was the problem. It didn't help.

My setup included the Godspeed rad, 180* t-stat, DIY reroute. Water wetter with about 75-80/25-20 mixture.

Any ideas?
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hustler

iTrader: (6)

did you test the thermostat? It only takes once to learn this lesson. Was this highway driving, or fan dependant? Any air bubbles in the system?

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

No I didn't test it. All highway miles. No air in the system.
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hustler

iTrader: (6)

Well its a new rad so a blockage is unlikely. Any kinked hoses with the reroute? I say pressure test the radiator if you don't want to pull the thermostat next. You're car shouldn't need fans at that ambient temp if your moving.

Next time, test the thermostat to make sure its opening all the way, especially if you have a reroute. Its 30-minutes of work that will save you 4-hours in troubleshooting. I bet the radiator is leaking under pressure.

I had a friend with an evo who's car overheated for almost one year, and no one could figure it out, not even the dealer. Finally we learned that the radiator had a tiny pinhole leak, and sprayed a tiny stream of water on the downpipe, so it evaporated and couldn't be traced...but only under pressure.

leatherface24

iTrader: (10)

Phil, I bet you do have air in the system. It took me three times to figure out that was my problem the first day I had the reroute

hustler

iTrader: (6)

in for AWR header tank and swirl pot. I'll buy them eventually.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

What radiator cap are you using?

I had similar issues with my old one. Following braineack's suggestion, I changed it to one with less pressure. It did the trick for me.

Now, I only see high temps when I turn the A/C on and that's because of the transfer of heat coming out of the A/C condenser and passing through the radiator.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

1.1 bar = roughly 16 psi.
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spike

I have always wondered,what does a header tank & swirl pot do to help out the cooling system?

Stephanie Turner

I'd replace the radiator cap.
Stephanie

hustler

iTrader: (6)

swirl pots make the water spin like a vortex, so the air goes to the center, which bleeds through a valve into the header tank...which becomes the highest point in the water system...basically replacing your "coolant overflow" which is essentially the same thing but located lower than the head for some dumbass reason. They're $100 each from AWR. However, the problem here should be fixed without these parts. My car did just fine with no fans in 70* ambient temps while road tuning.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

So yesterday after the car started to over heat on the way to work I decided to pull the thermostat, gut it and put it back in. Drove home and it didn't over heat but my temps are still to high. When I got home I jacked the front of the car way high, took the cap off and let it run. Alot of bubbles did come out. Drove the car this morning and my temps are still to high. 205-220. Wont go any lower or higher and this is on the highway going 60+.

Is it possible that my rad isn't getting enough air flow?

Someone please give me some ideas.
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levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Simple and cheap enough so I'll give it a try. Should I try a different psi?
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Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I've always run a 13psi cap. Certain you have no leaks?

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Positive
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TonyV

iTrader: (17)

Could the larger IC you put in mean less air for rad, mean higher temps?

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Well thats all I can really think of, but could it make that much of a difference. Anyone?
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Atlanta93LE

iTrader: (5)

Blockage perhaps unlikely, but certainly sounds like a partially blocked rad. Is the core hot to the touch after driving? Consistent, or are there cold spots?

How are you certain there aren't any pinhole leaks in the rad? Can't circulate water if you can't hold pressure. IIRC, yours wouldn't be the first Godspeed rad with a leak.

leatherface24

iTrader: (10)

just for craps and giggles Phil, replace the thermostat. Its only 5 bucks and in the end, that may be the issue. I also agree with the cap being an issue. I still think you have a leak somewhere honestly. Back when I first got my car, it overheated like crazy and I never could find a puddle of water anywhere. One day, I had the hood open while the car was running and I was pulling on the throttle cable, I notice a fine mist shooting out of the back of the head. The hose that went from the back of the head to the factory oil cooler had a tiny hole in it that was shooting water onto the bellhousing which in turn was causing the watter to evaporate. I would have never known that was the issue had I not been at the right place at the right time to see it. Replaced that stupid hose, and had no problems after that.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Yes the rad is hot and it seems consistent.

I just had the radiator repaired at a radiator shop because it was leaking. They said they pressure test them after they fix them.
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