1.8 maf on 1.6
heya few of you will prob of read a previous post of mine asking if anyone had done this before (fitted a 1.8 hotwire maf sensor on a 1.6 without stand alone)
anyway after a few people said it wasn't possible i thought id give it a go after about 8hours messing with an oscilloscope and a voltmeter and a voltage inversion modual i got the thing to run but was rather lumpy so i took it for a run and it didn't really run all that great and seemed to have a few flat spots so ill stand corrected it wont work not correctly anyway but goin on to what some one mentioned in my previous post im using a HKS F-con mini (picture below) a member said i dont need a air flow meter and am able to use a map sensor can someone tel me if this is correct and how i go about doin it thanks lee |
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I believe it only works in conjunction with the HKS VPC which is no longer available.
I originally thought that's what you had and not the F-Con. |
does anyone know if i am just able to remove it completely if i connect the fuel pump relay switch wires together and connect up a temperature sensor to the appropriate wires
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Originally Posted by madmalc
(Post 166256)
does anyone know if i am just able to remove it completely if i connect the fuel pump relay switch wires together and connect up a temperature sensor to the appropriate wires
What did you do for an AIT sensor during your "experiment"? |
Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 166257)
What did you do for an AIT sensor during your "experiment"?
since i posted above i have been doing a little more research into the voltage inversion modual i used and it appears it is the correct one for the job so i have bought a different one and ill try again please any suggestions/constructive criticism are welcome |
lazzer, is that you?
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Originally Posted by devin mac
(Post 166280)
lazzer, is that you?
:rofl: :bigtu: |
This can be done with the proper electronics. I don't care what anyone says. But is it worth the time/effort?
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iv about given up on the idea to be honest i think iv been defeated ill just move my airflow meter out of sight either to inside the front bumper running a pipe from my turbo inlet and cut a hole in my inner wing and then run a pipe round (the longer pipe shouldn't affect it that much with it been forced induction) or in the scuttle panel and cut a hole behind my washer bottle(right hand drive) and refit the carbon fiber panel i have (this would also get alot more cool air)
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alot will prob. think im stupid and why not just run a stand alone
its not the fact i can't afford too its just that a friend is using a hydra nms on his and is having nothing but problems and seen as mine runs so well i would ideally just rather change a few little thing that a relatively in expensive and can be easily put back if the prove not to be any good |
my $300 Megasquirt has been working out just nicely :gay:
you could try fitting it doing something like this: http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...67_15_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...67_16_full.jpg this is my fav: https://www.miataturbo.net/vbgarage....etimage&id=214 |
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 166308)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...67_15_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...67_16_full.jpg |
k&n Ru-5111, I believe I sold it to him :gay:
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i would watch out if you're gonna cut your wheel well like that. I orginally did and when i lowered my car with the 2" pipe in there it would rub hardcore. given that my car is retarted low it wouldnt of worked......for me.
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mine is stupidly low as wel so im gona av to check clearence before i start cutting holes
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...c/DSC00767.jpg |
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