13b for 93 miata
#23
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All I hope is that the new rotary enigne mazda is comeing out with will be much beter than the old 13b. The larger displacement is a start. I mean comon.. 9k rpm with like 4 moveing parts, lighweight, and runs so smooth... plus they can spool large turbos with ease. I wouldent mind a rotary car as my non DD. So what if they consume alittle more fuel and alittle oil by design?
#27
There is a kit. I don't remember the name of the company that makes it though, I think they're based out of Florida.
And the kit is like $4500 for some engine mounts and other stuff.
It's been done before (rotary in a miata) and if you want to do it all you have to do is write the check(s).
And the kit is like $4500 for some engine mounts and other stuff.
It's been done before (rotary in a miata) and if you want to do it all you have to do is write the check(s).
#28
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Location: Overland Park, Kansas
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Swear to god.. Theres always someone.
Forget the rotary unless you really like failure.
Mazda BP 1.8 from Junkyard is like 100$ for the longblock.. at least, thats what I've bought like five of them for now...
Forget the rotary unless you really like failure.
Mazda BP 1.8 from Junkyard is like 100$ for the longblock.. at least, thats what I've bought like five of them for now...
#29
The problems with rotary is the fact that they're turbo'ed. N/A lasts far longer... but at the consequence of power. Though a good port (1/2 bridge as a full bridge port is hard and cn shorten life) can make a big gain. Hell, a carb'd 13B with a large street port and big carb would be fun as **** to drive. Or just say **** it and p-port it buahahaha.
Now, if you really wanted to make a lot of power and TQ without a V8....and money was no object, there is always a n/a 20B. I have seen a 20B n/a with a custom header (duh) and tuned with a MoTec make 380hp. Now, if you were to take the high-comp rotors from a S5 and do a street port, you'd be looking at well over 400hp and dependable at that...
oh when i win the lottery......
Now, if you really wanted to make a lot of power and TQ without a V8....and money was no object, there is always a n/a 20B. I have seen a 20B n/a with a custom header (duh) and tuned with a MoTec make 380hp. Now, if you were to take the high-comp rotors from a S5 and do a street port, you'd be looking at well over 400hp and dependable at that...
oh when i win the lottery......
#30
My friend told me that the realy problem with the FD wasn't the apex seal but overheating which led to the seal's failure. He said he read an article about how someone modified the radiator placement and basically double the life of the engine (from 60K to 120K...)
-t.t.
P.S.
here's a sportscompact article.
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/pr...t_2/index.html
-t.t.
P.S.
here's a sportscompact article.
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/pr...t_2/index.html
#31
The problems with rotary is the fact that they're turbo'ed. N/A lasts far longer... but at the consequence of power. Though a good port (1/2 bridge as a full bridge port is hard and cn shorten life) can make a big gain. Hell, a carb'd 13B with a large street port and big carb would be fun as **** to drive. Or just say **** it and p-port it buahahaha.
Now, if you really wanted to make a lot of power and TQ without a V8....and money was no object, there is always a n/a 20B. I have seen a 20B n/a with a custom header (duh) and tuned with a MoTec make 380hp. Now, if you were to take the high-comp rotors from a S5 and do a street port, you'd be looking at well over 400hp and dependable at that...
oh when i win the lottery......
Now, if you really wanted to make a lot of power and TQ without a V8....and money was no object, there is always a n/a 20B. I have seen a 20B n/a with a custom header (duh) and tuned with a MoTec make 380hp. Now, if you were to take the high-comp rotors from a S5 and do a street port, you'd be looking at well over 400hp and dependable at that...
oh when i win the lottery......
yeah i was thinking about the 20B and p-port it cause it sounds monsterous lol but it also cost way more then a 13b... could find a good 13b for 1800 but 20b for about 4000+
#33
you DO NOT WANT to p-port any kinda of "reliable" car lol. Almost no idle, wears seals very fast. But a p-port 20B could make unfathomable amounts of power lol
Sadly, there is a shop in Ga where the owner "collects" 20Bs... there are like 20+ of them just collecting dust. :(
Sadly, there is a shop in Ga where the owner "collects" 20Bs... there are like 20+ of them just collecting dust. :(
Sounds like me and you need to take a visit to this guys shop
#34
you DO NOT WANT to p-port any kinda of "reliable" car lol. Almost no idle, wears seals very fast. But a p-port 20B could make unfathomable amounts of power lol
Sadly, there is a shop in Ga where the owner "collects" 20Bs... there are like 20+ of them just collecting dust. :(
Sadly, there is a shop in Ga where the owner "collects" 20Bs... there are like 20+ of them just collecting dust. :(
#39
you DO NOT WANT to p-port any kinda of "reliable" car lol. Almost no idle, wears seals very fast. But a p-port 20B could make unfathomable amounts of power lol
Sadly, there is a shop in Ga where the owner "collects" 20Bs... there are like 20+ of them just collecting dust. :(
Sadly, there is a shop in Ga where the owner "collects" 20Bs... there are like 20+ of them just collecting dust. :(
Yes, it ran 11,000 RPM.
Mark