6 dollars to lower your mat temp 20 degrees.
 

I thought i needed a cool air box, I just hated the idea of my turbo sucking in hot ass air. I looked at cool air boxes, all were over priced. So ricer instint kicks it. Need shit for your car roll to lowes. 6 dollars bought me a 12x24 sheet of galvanized steel. Was it worth it? Or am i damn ricer. I later figured out that i had to cut a notch for the hood prop to go. I drove around boosting before, and my MAT was 139, now driving around boosting the highest i observed was 118. I doubt there was more than 2 degrees ambient temperature change. As they were taken an hour apart. Accuweather said it was 94 degrees both times i checked.

Funny, on my CRX I've purposely made a hot air intake that sucks in air from between the block and the exhaust manifold. I get IATs of like 160-180Deg. Increased my MPG by 3-4. Now I've got it running on MS2, so I can lean it out even further using the WB.

GJ on the heatshield, take a dremel or some other sanding drum to that cut out to give it a nice finished look.

good shit but has been done before and has been documented in details quiet few times

MTA=Manifold air temp I am assuming...Sounds like you need moar intercooler to get your temps to ambient. Or a more efficient turbo or ducting for your intercooler. Making shit that is functional isn't ricer but if you put "mad tyte jdm type r cool air box," that'd be another story.

You're an idiot, please close your mt.net account.

it works but i have no room for such nonsense as my airfilter is twice the size of yours. The same goes for my penis as well. Kudos for having the creativity to make a functional part though.

I was waiting for that one:bowrofl:

I just ran my air filter to where the left foglight was.

Pics of penis?

MY air filter is pretty pansy. I didn't bother to search, I do need to do some ducting for my I/C, i also dont have the bottom cover on right now, because i am lazy. BTW what should my intake temps be? I have that china charger and an old style FMII ic.

Mine was free (materials anyway)

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7199184_n.jpg

My intake temps are same as ambient...even after some hard running.

hey did you forget to cut the slot for the hood prop?

Hahahaha, is that a speed limit sign?

Damn over the radiator setup is really starting to screw me up. Charge pipes leave no room for this kind of thing.

in your mod email as we speak

i've never heard it called mat before. at first i thought you might be from canada, but i see your from texas so i won't ride ya' over it but most people call it an IAT = intake air temp. sensor. anyway's, the last trackday i ran at harris hill road (by san marcos) it was hotter than hell out, (98* even hotter track temp) and on the long straight after turn 2 i check my IAT's and they were about 3-4* over ambient, at wot after several hot laps on the track. that's with a china cooler and a gt28 @ 9-10psi. once i slowed down to pull in the pits it shot up fast, and once stopped (no air flowing thru the intercooler) the temps went up 20* plus before they started coming back down. so if you checked it once you were driving slow, that might be why it was reading so high, remember, it takes airflow for the intercooler to work!

Curly, if you can do an ott like mine you would have room to pull this neat trick off also...but if your intercooler and turbo are efficient you don't need to do this.

Astro, why is it that you think pulling in ambient temperature is not needed or inefficient. Compressing air is always going to create X heat and an intercooler can only remove Y. If you start with a lower temperature then you can use a smaller intercooler to reach the same temperature as before the modification. There is nothing JDM or bandaid about this. If you think it is, then you're a scrub. PERIOD

Spoolin, tons of OEMs use MAT and not IAT. For sure all Hondas.

Fuck doing a cheap or free mod to lower intake temps!!!

It's all about doing dem tyte type-r filters, right?

Shit yeah. I want a Weapon-R cold air intake, and I want to route it up through the hood. Maximum cool, true ram air... if I can trim down my budget by skipping out on the light weight pulley kit or ground kit, I might get a second and a Y-pipe and run two.

Indeed.

OK neo, I see your point.

Let boost be at 6 psi. The temp gain with turbo is about 14/15F per psi, or about 90°F.

On a 90°F ambient day, ambient absolute would be 90 + 460 = 550F.
The charge temp absolute would be about 550° + another 90° from the turbo, which comes out to 640°F

Density would degrade by 550/640 = .86

The pressure ratio at 6 psi is 1.41.

With the heat from the turbo, then the 141% more density from compression will be degraded by .86 x 1.41, or to about 1.21. Thus a huge chunk of the density/power was lost and the system is 90°F closer to knock.

With a 90% efficient IC, .90 of the 90°F temp rise will be taken out, or about 81°F removed, thus leaving a net gain of 9°F. This would leave a density loss of only 2% from the heat, or a net gain of 1.41 x .98 = 1.38, or an overall gain of 38% rather than the 21% without the intercooler.

This assumes the filter is in a position sourcing ambient air. Behind the radiator is one of the worst places, the temperate sourced from that area is going to be closer to 150-190°F.

So, let's compare:

perfect conditions; 90°F ambient + (90°F turbo addition x 90% intercooler) + 460°F = 559F
unideal conditions; 90°F ambient + [(190°F intake + 90°F turbo addition) x 90% intercooler] + 460°F = 575F

550/559 = 1% density loss or overall gain of 39.5%
550/575 = 4.3% density loss or overall gain 34.8%

So if you dynoed at 160rwhp with the filter behind the radiator, you have a potential of a 7.5rwhp gain if you simply moved the air filter to somewhere that would source ambient air.

something like that.

precompressor density increase > intake mani density increase

EDIT: Technically the above is wrong, but was written in the sense that making increases in precompressor density is more worthwhile than post compressor increases, although you can more easily increase density post compressor due to the larger deltaT of the now compressed air.

A better way to put the above is: post compressor density increase = PR * precompressor increase for the same mod. /EDIT

This is especially true with smaller compressors, or will make a bigger difference to you. With a larger, efficient compressor you just turn up the boost...but in trying to eek every last little bit out of my tiny IHI I did everything I could to get the densest, coolest, highest pressure air into the compressor intake.

A given pressure ratio does not equate to an absolute mass flow rate. A 2.0 pressure ratio simply pressurizes the air to twice what it was at the intake. It does not care what the intake pressure or density was, it will operate as efficiently as it's flow map dictates at that pressure. What does change is the air mass. You can effectively "shift" your efficiency map by providing denser, or higher pressure air. This is how compound turbocharging works, and why the second compressor on such setups doesn't need a huge pressure ratio, just a high flow rate that is efficient for said pressure ratio.

The RHB5 was only efficient up to about 1.7 pressure ratio for the 1.6L, and blowing nothing but hot air after that. Coupled with a tiny intercooler on the original BEGi kit and I had to do what I could to direct cool, high pressure air to the intake.

Either way you're optimizing your setup. It amazes me that we can spend $200 for 5hp, but will scoff at the $6 solution that nets just as much gain, especially when it's one that makes life easier on both turbo and motor.

hmm. looks like your airfilter was located right where mine is. i'm suprised at the kind of temp loss that you experienced just by boxing it in. looks like i have another project to add to the list.

Heat reflection and compartmentalization (fucking huge word huh?) are amazing things.