Might pick up a turbo miata
09-12-2010, 01:27 PM
#1
Newb
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9
Total Cats: 0
Might pick up a turbo miata
Hey I got offered this as a trade for my 97 Impreza with a 2002 WRX swap.
Noob questions ahead, don't flame:
I've been searching, but it's different with every application, so what psi do you think I could safely daily drive with this engine and turbo? And about what power would I be at?
Lastly what do you think this car is worth?
I know, "it's worth whatever you will pay for it" but I'm not familiar with these cars and I want to make sure I'm not getting ripped off.
I've been searching, but like I said every situation is different, plus we're loooking to do the deal like, now, so I don't have all day to browse the interwebz.
------------------------------
1991 mazda miata
206k on chassis
72k on motor
right now the car is running on 5 lbs
motor-
cometic head gasket
ARP head studs
new oil pump
new water pump
new thermostat
All new gaskets through out the motor
16g turbo
SS log manifold
SS downpipe
new plug wires
new ngk bkr7e plugs
CX racing radiator
ISIS electric fans
SPEC stage 2 clutch
7M 440cc injectors
deleted maf
GM IAT sensor
megasquirt 3.57
BEGI intercooler kit
1g BOV
catback exhaust
Suspension-
BC racing coilovers
ISC tophats
Godspeed sway bars
racing beat end links
Rota RB 13x8 +4
new 215/50/13
drilled and slotted rotors
Body-
new paint
OEM hardtop
oem front and rear mud flaps
R front lip
clean rolled and pulled fenders
interior-
nardi deep corn wheel
nrg slim hub
nrg quick release
modded driver seat to fit tall people (im 6'7")
prosport boost gauge
innovate wideband
racing beat type-2 roll bar
broadway mirror
radio delete
amp in the trunk that connects to an mp3 player
Thanks.
Noob questions ahead, don't flame:
I've been searching, but it's different with every application, so what psi do you think I could safely daily drive with this engine and turbo? And about what power would I be at?
Lastly what do you think this car is worth?
I know, "it's worth whatever you will pay for it" but I'm not familiar with these cars and I want to make sure I'm not getting ripped off.
I've been searching, but like I said every situation is different, plus we're loooking to do the deal like, now, so I don't have all day to browse the interwebz.
------------------------------
1991 mazda miata
206k on chassis
72k on motor
right now the car is running on 5 lbs
motor-
cometic head gasket
ARP head studs
new oil pump
new water pump
new thermostat
All new gaskets through out the motor
16g turbo
SS log manifold
SS downpipe
new plug wires
new ngk bkr7e plugs
CX racing radiator
ISIS electric fans
SPEC stage 2 clutch
7M 440cc injectors
deleted maf
GM IAT sensor
megasquirt 3.57
BEGI intercooler kit
1g BOV
catback exhaust
Suspension-
BC racing coilovers
ISC tophats
Godspeed sway bars
racing beat end links
Rota RB 13x8 +4
new 215/50/13
drilled and slotted rotors
Body-
new paint
OEM hardtop
oem front and rear mud flaps
R front lip
clean rolled and pulled fenders
interior-
nardi deep corn wheel
nrg slim hub
nrg quick release
modded driver seat to fit tall people (im 6'7")
prosport boost gauge
innovate wideband
racing beat type-2 roll bar
broadway mirror
radio delete
amp in the trunk that connects to an mp3 player
Thanks.
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09-12-2010, 03:27 PM
#2
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
Looks like the motor is fairly solid but the right parts is only 1/2 the battle, what about assembly?
The dampers are probably dog **** too.
I'd keep the swapped Impreza though.
The dampers are probably dog **** too.
I'd keep the swapped Impreza though.
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09-12-2010, 03:30 PM
#3
I just stopped driving my 92 with 212k on the chassis. The chassis imo was worm out, very loose and noisy. If you really want a turbo Miata Id sell the Impreza and build your own.
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09-12-2010, 05:17 PM
#6
MY chassis has 225k. If someone wants to trade you, they are probably trying to **** you. I had a guy that wanted to trade an E36 m3 for my car. I was like Hell yeeah! I took it out, and this car had mountains of **** wrong with it. Not worth it. The car doesn't sound bad. I would keep the Subie. Thats probably a pretty bad *** ride.
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09-12-2010, 08:45 PM
#7
I learned my lesson of always to get a car early in the day. Would request the owner to meet early in the day and that he does not turn on the car before I get there. Would take it at least to make an oil change just in case they had added high viscosity oil to the motor. The reason early in the day to see if the valve seals are fine.
You need more info, piston compression, vacuum readings, lets see those spark plugs (each one of them). Check that the heater and A/C both work, look underneath the seats and if possible under the carpet for any signs of flood/rust. Verivy the chassis is straight, the car may look nice on the outside, but see that it has not been chopped.
A car swap like that I would check for everything. Ask the guy to drive the car and follow him and look at all the wheels to see if any are wobbled or bent. Take the car to a highway and reach 80-90 miles to look for any vibrations, excessive wind noise (which usuall means the car has been on an accident and the doors are a little off) or sudden check engine codes, and now on the subject take a quick look that all lights turn on when the ignition key is activated especially the CE light.
Spray the car with water to see if it leaks on the cabin or behind the dashboard. If it has A/C take it to a shop to test for leaks, some kind of probe that is inserted on the A/C vents and will read as many times people will charge the car, then to figure out it lasts maybe a month or so.
Doing the car trade as if right now is NOT a good idea, hell no I would do such a thing, but its not my car.
Good luck
You need more info, piston compression, vacuum readings, lets see those spark plugs (each one of them). Check that the heater and A/C both work, look underneath the seats and if possible under the carpet for any signs of flood/rust. Verivy the chassis is straight, the car may look nice on the outside, but see that it has not been chopped.
A car swap like that I would check for everything. Ask the guy to drive the car and follow him and look at all the wheels to see if any are wobbled or bent. Take the car to a highway and reach 80-90 miles to look for any vibrations, excessive wind noise (which usuall means the car has been on an accident and the doors are a little off) or sudden check engine codes, and now on the subject take a quick look that all lights turn on when the ignition key is activated especially the CE light.
Spray the car with water to see if it leaks on the cabin or behind the dashboard. If it has A/C take it to a shop to test for leaks, some kind of probe that is inserted on the A/C vents and will read as many times people will charge the car, then to figure out it lasts maybe a month or so.
Doing the car trade as if right now is NOT a good idea, hell no I would do such a thing, but its not my car.
Good luck
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09-12-2010, 09:23 PM
#8
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 8,682
Total Cats: 130
Well SS log manifold probably means ebay SS log and that means you'll need to replace it.
If you're bonered for a turbo miata then please keep the subaru and buy a nice turbo miata from one of the members here. I price your car at 4-7k depending on the quality of conversion and that much car dollars should get you a nicer car than that one in trade.
FWIW I would like to own your car. I would be interested in it if I didn't already have a forester xt.
If you're bonered for a turbo miata then please keep the subaru and buy a nice turbo miata from one of the members here. I price your car at 4-7k depending on the quality of conversion and that much car dollars should get you a nicer car than that one in trade.
FWIW I would like to own your car. I would be interested in it if I didn't already have a forester xt.
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09-12-2010, 10:56 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9
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I don't think he is. Here are some pics though.
MY chassis has 225k. If someone wants to trade you, they are probably trying to **** you. I had a guy that wanted to trade an E36 m3 for my car. I was like Hell yeeah! I took it out, and this car had mountains of **** wrong with it. Not worth it. The car doesn't sound bad. I would keep the Subie. Thats probably a pretty bad *** ride.
This guy buys/sells/trades/ cars all the time. You may say that's a bad thing, but with all of his trading he has never had a bad experience that I've seen (at least it wasn't posted on the forums; I'm on two with him)
I learned my lesson of always to get a car early in the day. Would request the owner to meet early in the day and that he does not turn on the car before I get there. Would take it at least to make an oil change just in case they had added high viscosity oil to the motor. The reason early in the day to see if the valve seals are fine.
You need more info, piston compression, vacuum readings, lets see those spark plugs (each one of them). Check that the heater and A/C both work, look underneath the seats and if possible under the carpet for any signs of flood/rust. Verivy the chassis is straight, the car may look nice on the outside, but see that it has not been chopped.
A car swap like that I would check for everything. Ask the guy to drive the car and follow him and look at all the wheels to see if any are wobbled or bent. Take the car to a highway and reach 80-90 miles to look for any vibrations, excessive wind noise (which usuall means the car has been on an accident and the doors are a little off) or sudden check engine codes, and now on the subject take a quick look that all lights turn on when the ignition key is activated especially the CE light.
Spray the car with water to see if it leaks on the cabin or behind the dashboard. If it has A/C take it to a shop to test for leaks, some kind of probe that is inserted on the A/C vents and will read as many times people will charge the car, then to figure out it lasts maybe a month or so.
Doing the car trade as if right now is NOT a good idea, hell no I would do such a thing, but its not my car.
Good luck
You need more info, piston compression, vacuum readings, lets see those spark plugs (each one of them). Check that the heater and A/C both work, look underneath the seats and if possible under the carpet for any signs of flood/rust. Verivy the chassis is straight, the car may look nice on the outside, but see that it has not been chopped.
A car swap like that I would check for everything. Ask the guy to drive the car and follow him and look at all the wheels to see if any are wobbled or bent. Take the car to a highway and reach 80-90 miles to look for any vibrations, excessive wind noise (which usuall means the car has been on an accident and the doors are a little off) or sudden check engine codes, and now on the subject take a quick look that all lights turn on when the ignition key is activated especially the CE light.
Spray the car with water to see if it leaks on the cabin or behind the dashboard. If it has A/C take it to a shop to test for leaks, some kind of probe that is inserted on the A/C vents and will read as many times people will charge the car, then to figure out it lasts maybe a month or so.
Doing the car trade as if right now is NOT a good idea, hell no I would do such a thing, but its not my car.
Good luck
We are in Fl, so...Why was he a ***?
I just miss RWD.
And a side note-this forum is great. Didn't get one dumbass or bs reply. Every post was helpful, so thank you.
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