Airbag light fix
 

I thought I'd post this on it's own instead of bumping one of the other old threads. I tried the resistor trick when I installed my new wheel but it did not work. This one did. I found this solution over on M.net, but with inquiries about how to make it go away even here on MT, I figured it would help someone out.

Here's the copied post from M.net:

What resistor did you use? Must use a 1/4 watt 3ohm resistor....anything else and it won't work. I have had success with the resistor :dunno:

I also used the correct resistor and it didn't work. The zip tie trick did though.

I used a single 3ohm, and (3) 1ohm resistors in series, each a 1/4 watt. Had no luck with any of that for some reason.



















<---- Edit: 666th post. Hail Satan.

your 92 needs no resistor. just tie the two wires together. problem solved.

I've read a bunch of threads about the dash light and never seen that before. Good to know.

I found this thread searching to get rid of my airbag light. Thought I'd update it with a pic since the original link is broken.

The airbag module is a blue box just above the steering column. You just unplug the wires and jam a ziptie into the harness where the little plastic things go. It took 2 minutes and got rid of my light, I was amazed how easy and simple this was. Much better than messing around with wiring in resistors.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1371413697

very good info but why do you need a crazy loop? cant you just use a small piece of plastic? i guess it is good to let people know this mod was made in case someone wants to undo it down the road.

No need for the loop. That's how the first guy did it and I didn't see any reason not to do it that way. I could go in and cut the ziptie so it's not looped, but that requires more cuts and fiddling with a smaller piece of plastic in an already cramped area. Then if one end falls out I'll have to cut up another ziptie instead of just pushing the end that fell out back in place.

Cool story, but what purpose does that actually provide? does it break a circuit? does it push in some sort of button that tells the ECU it's plugged in?

WHAT IS IT MAN?!



anyways, if you have a 90-93, you just need to twist the two airbag wires together, otherwise it's best to just take a resistance reading of the airbag itself, then match that the best you can on the connector.

I fixed mine by pulling the bulb, never bothered me again...

I've always heard this is a very bad idea, as the current a multimeter uses to test the resistance may be sufficient to fire the air bag.

The approach I've seen suggested is to wire in a potentiometer and slowly adjust it until the airbag light stays off, then measure the resistance of the potentiometer and replace it with resistors of an equal value.

I don't know if that's 100% necessary, but when dealing with explosives, one cannot be too safe.

i know its not something to play with or anything, but most airbags require 12 volts to be put through them in order to set them off... multimeters dont put that much voltage through. HOWEVER, i have heard of people being able to set off some airbags with a 9volt battery. but still, even at that, i dont think multimeters push out even 9volts. IM PERSONALLY not gonna play with it, BUT theoretically, you could probably still use a powered multimeter on them...

Push ziptie into airbag module harness, light goes out and does not come back.

Personally, I felt like this way was easier, quicker, cheaper, and without risk of blowing your head off.

I just pulled the whole airbag system personally, I had a good amount of free time though... whats wrong with disconnecting the airbag control module, and pulling the bulb? its not like pulling the bulb would take all that long to do

I should ban you for this...

I just bumped a thread that I found useful and simpler than other methods, and added a picture because the link had been broken. If you think the method is stupid and want to ban me for it, knock yourself out.

that's wouldnt be why.

It's because I asked a specific question and you didnt answer it. I demand ANSWERS and will shake it out of you!

The guy that originally did it said:

Beyond that, I don't have a clue. I'm no trailblazer, I just try to copy what other people do. The light is off, the car hasn't caught fire, so I assume whatever it did was successful.

okay, that's what i figured. I just wanted confirmation. That's probably the easiest method since you've probably disabled the airbag in the first place to have airbag light issues.

Typically airbag connectors are self grounding. So when the zip tie or w/e you stick in there is between the pin and the grounding blade. That's the only thing I can think of that would make this work.

On the flipside I just gave Ken the $10 or w/e for the simple plug in resistor.

$10 for .99c in parts. I'd never do that.

But I still prefer that solution since the airbag light will come on during startup as normal so I'll never worry about annual inspections. They might start asking questions if the light doesn't come on at all, but that's actually legal here in VA if you remove the entire system completely; which I technically haven't.

Miata Flashing Airbag light fix
 

I saw this posted on your site and decided to try it as my 24 year old Miata was experiencing the dreading "Flashing Airbag Iight"! After searching and searching about what makes my airbag light blink 5 times, then escalate to 10 times, I came to this solution to shut it down without ANY audible alarms or having to pull the bulb. At least until I can get the diagnostic module repaired or replaced. I was about to just cut the wire going to the bulb, I had to get the car inspected and this flashing light would make it fail! I know it’s due to leaky capacitors on the circuit board (this is a common and incredibly annoying issue with lots of older circuits in numerous devices). Anyway, I was at the point where I was ready to just dismantle my dashboard to get behind the instrument cluster and BLACK out the bulb that illuminates this warning or cut the wires..…but this simple trick worked great and was really easy to do!


All you have to do is remove the rectangular "kick panel" right under your steering column - it's just 2 phillips screws. You then have good access to all the under dash electrical connections and components. It’s pretty cramped quarters, I put a pillow on the door sill and laid on my back to see up under the dash. You will see a gray connector goes into the blue airbag diagnostic module right over the steering column; The module has 2 that go into the connector, keeping the circuit to the bulb open….once the connector is pulled out, the circuit gets closed and the airbag light comes on solid to alert that there is a problem with the system/connection. If you remove the bulb, you will then get a MORE annoying buzzer sound!

So disconnect the gray socket from the blue airbag diagnostic module….get a medium sized zip tie, cut it to about 6 inches and insert it into both holes of the connector (by looping it) where the earlier mentioned plastic blades would be…and eureka! No airbag light, no audible tone, no blinking, and best of all, no airbag in my face!

I’ve attached pictures and I hope this helps explain this relatively EASY fix….

Photos....

Attachment 180130Attachment 180131

Hello!
I created an account just to write thank you for this guide :)

I was struggling with the airbag light after removing the airbag, and the ziptie trick seemed like a easy job! However I couldn't find the socket, but reading your guide made it more clear, so thank you!

You're welcome, Martin! Glad it was a help to you. Happy motoring!

My 92 has a slightly different connector than the one pictured but this fix seems to have worked. On mine the slots are horizontal rather than verticle. Thanks for the info. Hooray for zip-ties.

Wow. Cool trick.

Since this thread seems popular enough to be revived several times over the years, please allow me to contribute with some firsthand experience:

You CAN use a multimeter on airbag wiring.

You CAN solder on airbag wiring.

I did both with no adverse results.

Also, continuity check across airbag terminals will mislead you, because those plugs have steel springs in them which short the terminals when you unplug them. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull those flat springs off.

Also also, the yellow plugs may go bad, too. It is always a good idea to use electrical cleaner spray on them.

Different manufacturers recommend different things. For instance Honda will never have you cut,solder, or make any type of repair to airbag wiring at any level. I would imagine it’s too much of a liability. On the other hand Nissan/Infiniti has multiple bulletins/recalls for replacing under seat connectors in the SRS system. That’s how I found those nifty little heat shrink/solder butt connectors. 🤷‍♂️

Another option for people that don't want to cut into their harness or rely on a ziptie staying in the connector is the Works Bell Airbag Eliminator kit. They make them for all model years of miatas and seems to be plug and play.

Currently available here (as of 3/22/24) : https://rev9autosport.com/works-bell...liminator.html