Braineack

iTrader: (62)

This last weekend at an autocross a few guys were talking about how the new Mobil One formula sucks and breaks down fast. Which also explains the reason it's only $17 a gallon at Advance now. Anyone know anything more in detail on this? If there really is a new formula that sucks? Couldn't find anything online about it.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

I've been hearing this as well. No proof or info, just word of mouth. People have been saying this for over a year though.
I put some Valvoline synthetic in last time. No idea how it's doing, seems fine though. Might go for some redline on the next change just because you know it'll be good.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Mobil1 used to be a group IV oil, they are now a group III as Mobile has started to 'thin' the full synthetic out with hydrocracked base stock. So it's like a synthetic blend, but on steroids, as it does contain a healthy amount of POA oil (the good stuff). And still very good. This is actually Castrol's fault. Castrol started calling one of their blends 'full synthetic', Mobil took Castrol to court about it. Castrol's lawyers must have been better, as they won. Since then, many of the oil co's have been producing blends marketed as full synthetic.

Their good stuff is now called Mobil1 Extended Service or some **** like that and runs $25/gallon. I think it still includes some hydrocracked base stock mixed in, and do not see the 'value' with regard to our application. The 'standard' Mobil1 is specified for oil temps up to 400°F. The $18/gallon standard Mobil1 is fine for our application, and I still use it in the miata, but I've been using Rotella synthetic in everything else recently including my Mercedes. It's less expensive than Mobil1 and is very high quality.

If you're running a ***** out racing engine, it's probably a good idea to run group V Polyol Esters oil like Amsoil, Royal Purple, and RedLine.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Man i love me some rotella. I changed oil or a few years and that's all we used in the diesels including our own. It always came out better than delo in comparison after 3000 miles.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I'm about to buy a ****-ton of amsoil. Its the same price as mobile1 extended.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

soflarick is a dealer

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Yeah I have noticed mobil 1 has been sucking for a while i gues this is why It sucks they used to be good. Now i swear by Royal purple

Savington

iTrader: (31)

A coworker of mine gave me 6 quarts of Redline 10w30 a little while ago for free. Ka-ching

y8s

iTrader: (8)

hey soflarick, post up some amsoil prices!

soflarick

iTrader: (8)

Yes, I am a dealer, and I am happy to extend my discounts to any Miataturbo member. Just drop me an email and I'll give you the prices. Can't here. I've done some reading about the M1, supposed to be GIII, not quite as good as the GIV oils like Amsoil or Redline. The price for the M1 Extended is not worth it IMHO since Amsoil is so readily available at better prices, and it is still better lubricant than the M1. The Amsoil filters are also top of the line IMO. Only other spin on filter I would consider pricewise would be Purolator, Wix, Hastings, or M1. The KN flows well but doesn't filter as well as the others. The Amsoil filter is far better than the M1, and the prices are the same. The Amsoil oil filter flows really well, filters to a much smaller micron level than any of the others, and has a much longer recommended change interval. I've been running Amsoil lubricants in my cars for quite a while, even before becoming a dealer. Prices are good, shipping is super cheap, and since there are distribution centers all over the place it usually doesn't take long to receive the order. BTW, Amsoil has air filters now that can replace just about any KN air filter out there, flow just about as well, but filter far better. Check the Amsoil website for what they offer. There's a lot more than just fluids and lubricants. They also have NGK products, Mothers products, Trico, and some other things.

StankCheeze

iTrader: (1)

I just use German Castrol from autozone.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Amsoil ftw, Soflarick will take care of you!
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y8s

iTrader: (8)

ok amsoil guys... which motor oil should I run? series 2000? regular synthetic, or XL?

96rdstr

iTrader: (4)

Mobile 1 5w30 Synthetic plus factory Mazda filters. At 90000 miles the valve train is clean as a whistle and no noticeable wear on the lobes. I don't race so Mobile1 is perfectly fine for me...21.00 for the big ol' jug at Walmart. I only drive about 400 miles a month if that.

soflarick

iTrader: (8)

Depends on what you do with the car and the power, IMHO. I lean more towards protection rather than trying to eek out the last hp or two.

chuckerants

iTrader: (1)

I use M1 5w30 and my oil analysis has come back just fine after 3000 miles. I was even told I could go 5000 miles by Blackstone Labs.

But, I've been wanting to try Amsoil - Richard, you have a PM.

Thanks

y8s

iTrader: (8)

I beat the **** out of it.

AutoX, commute, not drive in snow... power is plenty high to warrant a little extra protection.

Is there much difference between the synthetic and synthetic XL? I'm not sure I quite want to step up to Series 2k for the price.

summer is hot here but i'll be doing the fall oil change soon.

soflarick

iTrader: (8)

The XL line is a Group III oil, hence its lower price and 7500 drain interval. The full GIV synthetic is the regular stuff and has a 25k change interval under normal passenger car conditions, not yours . Basically if you want great protection and you just HAVE to change your oil every 3k, get the XL. If you want fewer drain intervals and top protection, get the full synthetic. I don't personally run the new Series 2000 since it doesn't currently come in the weights I use. Once they offer a greater variety of oil weights, I'd give it a try. On an FI'd engine, I'd at least run 10w30. I don't care about making an extra hp or 1/4 mpg (if that) from a lighter weight oil. I have way too much money into my engine, so I want protection.

soflarick

iTrader: (8)

Lemme back up a bit, if you're in a colder climate, then a lighter weight would be okay. I live in South Florida where it's HOT 8 months of a year. If I lived further north, I would consider 5w30 in the cooler/colder months, maybe even 0w30. In the summer, 10w30 would be it for me.

chuckerants

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like the "regular" Amsoil is what I should use since I intend on OCI of 5000 miles for my SCed engine. But, I'm still a little confused about 5w30 vs 10w30.

I've been using 5w30 ever since day 1. This is even after I moved to Phoenix. I wonder if I should be switching over to 10w30 in the summer and stay with 5w30 for the cooler months?

Hmmm.