OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

you are 100% accurate.. i'm having a hard time trying to understand what he is looking to do... did he want a camaro that looks like a miata? he is adding a lot of mass, a lot of parts from rock auto, and it's impressive what you can do with a Drill press these days...

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

two different calipers. the pro is a smaller 4 piston. the dynalight is a not-as-small-but-still-small economy 4 piston. as far as rebuilding goes they are about the same level of difficulty.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

I cant, what, why... hua?

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

here is one for everybody.
I went down to CMP with NASA SE. going into turn 1 i had a dynalight lock up. by turn 3 it boiled the fluid in the system and i lost all brakes. spent some time in the dirt but came out unhurt. what could i have done to prevent this? Take some time and rebuild the calipers every year. the daylights are flexy that flex puts extra strain on the piston walls. ergo you will need to rebuild them annually and inspect for damage.

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

Improve maintenance or move to a different solution? Not always obvious when you try to make the most out of things that "shouldn't work" (others trial and error can not always be used).

IIRC just by holding them in my hand the Dynapro Radial feels like a different animal, but I'd go for thick alu pistons over the ones in pressed stainless steel. If you should stay with Wilwood.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

you 100% correct. i'm looking into different solutions. but i'm not sure if i can find a caliper that will bolt on and clear the wheels. i will report back what i find. for the record the dynalights have slowed my car for 4 years without issue. they have never been the best performing caliper, but they did work untill last week. i'm not sure if my new upgrades overwhelmed them (+50hp, rs3-> toyo RR) or if they have just wore out. i still need to dig into it and find the issue.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Was that 4 years without a rebuild?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure I'd want aluminum pistons, more heat transfer from the pad to the caliper and fluid. Ti is probably the real material of choice.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Actually steel is hard to beat for the price. Lower thermal inertia than ti and much lower expansion rate than aluminum. It's just the specific density that works against it.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

The lower thermal expansion rate than aluminum is the killer. Remember this piston should expand at the same rate as the aluminum caliper its in.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

this^. ideally you want aluminum pistons with a insulator to keep the heat out.


yep. fantastic idea right?

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

had these come in over the weekend. to replace the dragging dynalight. I wasn't over the moon on the calipers via reading the internet description. but seeing that the calipers where a claimed 30% stronger and 10 bucks more i decided to give them a go . I did call afco and asked what they compared the caliper to, that led to a result of 30% more strength. Afco Said "everything else". to me that sounds like marking mumbo jumbo. they also said the F33 where 3 piece calipers and, all f33 calipers come with bridge bolt. what came in the mail was a 2 piece caliper without a bridge bolt. At this point i can tell their customer service is questionable. after i got them i did start to get a bit excited.

IT was a surprise to me to see the calipers came in as a two piece. they are also much longer. the longer the caliper is the lower you can mount the connecting bolt. lower the bolt is mounted the stronger the caliper is.





On a track speed kit they clear the 15x8 wheels without a spacer.



the first test fit they seemed to be hitting the hats on one lug. these track speed kits really need hub centric rings. i'll get that from a machine shop.



Before


after




So far the pedal feels much improved. there was no visible deflection vs the wilwoods i could see the calipers flex. they offsets are not perfect and do require a shim. performance tests will be coming as i have an event lighned up in 2 weeks time. -Johnny

ofspunk7

Master Cylinder Question.

I pulled my calipers, rotors and SS lines last night because I am swapping my brake setup. Tonight I plan to pull the master cylinder and brake booster to take care of a leak I have where the MC and BB meet. My question is about bench bleeding. I plan to use a pnumatic brake bleeder to bleed my whole system. I know it will take a while as there is air everywhere in the system right now (as I sucked it dry last night). I am using a pnumatic pull system to bleed the brakes.

HF Bleeder Kit

If I am using the pnumatic bleeder, do I really need to bench bleed my Master before I install it? I would like to avoid having a MC full of brake fluid when I install it in the car. I would rather just suck a giant bottle of DOT4 OTS through the system. I have two (nothing special) new bottles of DOT4 I picked up for this job. So I am not as concerned about the amount of fluid I use to bleed the system. Thoughts? Advice? Knowledge?

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

Personally i would bench bleed, and then gravity bleed before using the pneumatic. for the record I don't like the idea of going "backwards" with a system. the calipers release a bunch of junk, mix that with the burnt fluid being sent the wrong way to get out. it could cause more issues then it solves. if you have abs the little black stuff that floats around gets into the abs and causes a whole bunch of problems. I've always liked the old school way of bleeding brakes. yes it takes friends, but that just means you need to have a non abrasive personality. that and take a soft rubber mallet and tap the calipers. it helps loosen troubling air bubbles that hang on.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Tend to agree with you, for the same reason. Lots of gunk that gravity steers towards the pistons. Not eager to shove that stuff back up through the system.

We just use a bottle with fluid submerged and pump it through, one man style. Never fails to get a solid pedal. Trick is just getting the hose loop off the caliper the right height/volume in relation to the bottle of old fluid so it can't draw air back in. A bit of stiff safety wire or coat hanger makes it easy to hang off of something in the wheel well to get the bottle at the right height relative to the caliper.

The only caveat is needing to cycle the ABS pump a few times to get that last bit of air out of the system.

ofspunk7

The pnumatic bleeder I have sucks fluid through the caliper nipple. I am confused by what you are saying. Were you thinking that my pnumatic bleeder sucks through the Master Cylinder?

(edited in google pics for you)

Edit
The bleeder


Double Edit
This just gravity feeds the MC

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

this just sends fluid backwards threw the system. When a brake nipple is open the threads wont make a air tight seal. some air could sneak threw the threads and up into your system. the bleeder nipple was engineered to work the opposite direction. that and shoving fluid upwards pushes the Junk released by a caliper in a brake line up past the master cylinder. once that junk gets caught between the MC seal and the bore you'll have a lot of problems. Examples like: decreased line pressure, failure to release line pressure, and inconstant pressure.

if you wanted to use a tool to help bleed brakes use one that works in the opposite direction. OR you can rig that bleeder with an old master cylinder cap. drill a hole in it and put in a nipple. that way the fluid is moving in the correct direction.

ofspunk7

Hmmm.... I still don't see how this is the wrong direction. It pulls fluid through the nipple of the caliper. In the same way that old school method pushes fluid out the nipple (same direction). No liquid is being forced into the system. A bottle gravity feeds the MC as it gets low. Isn't that the design of the nipple? To crack and relieve pressure and reseal? Wouldn't the air tightness of the bleeder nipple threads be the same if you are sucking or pushing fluid the same way out the nipple?

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

It's a air driven vacuum ejector thingy sucking the fluid out.

But low pressure means trapped air bubbles grows. High pressure makes air bubbles small.

humming

iTrader: (2)

I'm thinking it's a venturi vacuum pump sucking the fluid out of the nipple into the container under the nozzle... air goes in via the port on the handle and out the front, but a small hole going from the center of the passage into the container below creates vacuum and the port on the side pulls the brake fluid into the container below.