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Anyone have any brake questions?

Old 06-13-2016, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by emilio700
In our shop we look for discoloration of the brake fluid. It gets darker as it absorbs contaminants out of the air. Touch the bottom of the master reservoir. If you see anything stuck to your finger, screwdriver or whatever you are using, change the fluid.
Street cars, we flush once a year. Race cars get flushed 2-3x a year. Bleed after every 1-2 weekends.
yep exactly.
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Originally Posted by Mobius
Hopefully so, but let's hope it's never necessary. Experiencing your safety gear in action is ... not optimal.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:25 AM
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No deets. But new kit on the market.

StopTech Big Brake Kit for Mazda Miata | Garage Star
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
No deets. But new kit on the market.

StopTech Big Brake Kit for Mazda Miata | Garage Star
i wonder if those are a stoptech kit (meaning engineered by stoptech) or a kit that was engineered elsewhere and uses stoptech calipers. if it's stoptech kit i would be interested to get my hands on a set.
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Originally Posted by Mobius
Hopefully so, but let's hope it's never necessary. Experiencing your safety gear in action is ... not optimal.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:40 PM
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Engineered by Stoptech. Interesting that they chose Garagestar to eval the prototype kit. We provide a huge amount of data to ST for this kit and our involvement goes back 5 years. They were dead set on a kit that was too huge to fit any wheel Miata owners actually run. It was
a task to convince them to make the kit fit inside a 15x9 6UL. We sent wheel clearance templates. They also had a target price that was comically high. When we informed them that race proven kits were already available for well under $2k, they went back to the drawing board.
I got the strong impression that ST's primary motivation was that several members of their sales, marketing and engineering staff drive Miatas and can't be seen rolling on Wilwoods for their own project cars.

Anyway, looking forward to getting our kit to checkout.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by emilio700
Engineered by Stoptech. Interesting that they chose Garagestar to eval the prototype kit. We provide a huge amount of data to ST for this kit and our involvement goes back 5 years. They were dead set on a kit that was too huge to fit any wheel Miata owners actually run. It was
a task to convince them to make the kit fit inside a 15x9 6UL. We sent wheel clearance templates. They also had a target price that was comically high. When we informed them that race proven kits were already available for well under $2k, they went back to the drawing board.
I got the strong impression that ST's primary motivation was that several members of their sales, marketing and engineering staff drive Miatas and can't be seen rolling on Wilwoods for their own project cars.

Anyway, looking forward to getting our kit to checkout.

i was talking to a stoptech engineer at the last msx, told them the same thing. make it fit under a 15x9 6ul. i did say that if it was a full floating kit they could sell it at $3k for a 2 axle set. i like stoptech calipers, it's their best feature. i also like that this one uses the PFC 7752 pad shape, that is cheap to run.
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Originally Posted by Mobius
Hopefully so, but let's hope it's never necessary. Experiencing your safety gear in action is ... not optimal.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:51 PM
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We're fiddling around with a floating rotor setup but not sure if/what/when we'll put into production.
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Old 06-16-2016, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by emilio700
We're fiddling around with a floating rotor setup but not sure if/what/when we'll put into production.
if you need assistance let me know. glad to help.
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Originally Posted by Mobius
Hopefully so, but let's hope it's never necessary. Experiencing your safety gear in action is ... not optimal.
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Old 06-16-2016, 02:16 PM
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Several Pirelli World Challenge MX5s running stoptech kits as required by rules and I've had more than one team tell me they wouldn't be running them if they weren't required to... have had lots of issues. YMMV
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Old 06-16-2016, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ThePass
Several Pirelli World Challenge MX5s running stoptech kits as required by rules and I've had more than one team tell me they wouldn't be running them if they weren't required to... have had lots of issues. YMMV

your talking about the MX5 right? in a little sprint race like pwc a stock system should do fine.
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Originally Posted by Mobius
Hopefully so, but let's hope it's never necessary. Experiencing your safety gear in action is ... not optimal.
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Old 06-16-2016, 03:50 PM
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Curious to see what the ST kit retails for. My expectation is that it will be ~2x what a Wilwood kit costs with minimal benefit for that added cost.
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by OGRacing
your talking about the MX5 right? in a little sprint race like pwc a stock system should do fine.
Yep, NC with 2.5L swaps. ~240 whp. The stock brakes could work, but that wouldn't be my first choice. Regardless, they are required by rules to run the ST kit (sponsors).
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
Curious to see what the ST kit retails for. My expectation is that it will be ~2x what a Wilwood kit costs with minimal benefit for that added cost.
That was essentially my warning to them. Gotta be <2K with some pad volume, staggered pistons, floating rotors or something like that to be worthwhile.
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Old 06-17-2016, 11:41 AM
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wonder what size rotor they chose to go with
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Sirnixalot
wonder what size rotor they chose to go with
11" thankfully. Should fit most 8's and all 9's. I have a feeling it will be a solid kit, just too expensive given the kits it's competing against already in the market.
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
Curious to see what the ST kit retails for. My expectation is that it will be ~2x what a Wilwood kit costs with minimal benefit for that added cost.
it's all about killing the drag. the dynalights can be quite draggy. a kit with floating rotors and a strong caliper it would be good for a few more MPH before the aero drag sets in. if that speed is worth the cost, that would be up to the guy paying the bill. that and we would really need to see if the kit can actually offer that performance.
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Originally Posted by Mobius
Hopefully so, but let's hope it's never necessary. Experiencing your safety gear in action is ... not optimal.
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Old 06-17-2016, 01:33 PM
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All right, here's a question - why are the Dynalites draggy? Just a matter of stuff distorting and causing the pistons to not move cleanly, and is there something that can be done with retrofitting different pistons / seals? And I know mention was made of the StopTech and Afco Dynalite equivalents as maybe being better - is there really anything else other than throwing huge cash at AP/Brembo for something intended for an F3 car? I know too that mention was made of needing to run similar piston material as the caliper body to have things work best, but it seems like even a lot of the AP calipers are running stainless or titanium pistons in an aluminum body - just another compromise?
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Old 06-17-2016, 02:46 PM
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The brakes on my Miata have never felt progressive and smooth like I would like....

I have had the car for about 2 years and have swapped a few different combinations on that have not worked well.

2000 non-sport street and Autocross use.

Factory Non-Sport Calipers/Rotors with unknown pads/rotors (weak)
Factory Sport Calipers/Rotors with a Stop-Tech pad and rotor combo (purchased used marginally better)
- New Centric Premium Rotors and Hawk HP+ pads (too much front lock-up)

I am currently running the HP+ in the Rear and the Stop-Tech Pads in the front to keep the fronts from locking up.

I am thinking that I likely need to replace/rebuild my calipers and have been trying to weigh the option of making a change to the FM little big brakes for all 4.
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Old 06-17-2016, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Alternative
The brakes on my Miata have never felt progressive and smooth like I would like....

I have had the car for about 2 years and have swapped a few different combinations on that have not worked well.

2000 non-sport street and Autocross use.

Factory Non-Sport Calipers/Rotors with unknown pads/rotors (weak)
Factory Sport Calipers/Rotors with a Stop-Tech pad and rotor combo (purchased used marginally better)
- New Centric Premium Rotors and Hawk HP+ pads (too much front lock-up)

I am currently running the HP+ in the Rear and the Stop-Tech Pads in the front to keep the fronts from locking up.

I am thinking that I likely need to replace/rebuild my calipers and have been trying to weigh the option of making a change to the FM little big brakes for all 4.
Just use decent, and matched pads. Same brand, perhaps different compounds. For an NB1 autocrosser, I'd suggest the same pad front and rear.
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Old 06-17-2016, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by emilio700
Just use decent, and matched pads. Same brand, perhaps different compounds. For an NB1 autocrosser, I'd suggest the same pad front and rear.
i have attempted that twice with unsatisfactory results.
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Old 06-18-2016, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mekilljoydammit
All right, here's a question - why are the Dynalites draggy? Just a matter of stuff distorting and causing the pistons to not move cleanly, and is there something that can be done with retrofitting different pistons / seals? And I know mention was made of the StopTech and Afco Dynalite equivalents as maybe being better - is there really anything else other than throwing huge cash at AP/Brembo for something intended for an F3 car? I know too that mention was made of needing to run similar piston material as the caliper body to have things work best, but it seems like even a lot of the AP calipers are running stainless or titanium pistons in an aluminum body - just another compromise?
They're are draggy because they're fixed calipers and fixed rotors. Thats not really just a Dynalite problem, its an all miata BBK problem.
Really anyone making custom hatted rotors could make a kit that used floating rotors. Finding a rotor thats cut with half circles instead of threaded holes off the shelf in the right size is the hard part. Extra cost would really be in the Ti floating pins and the difference in rotor price.
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