^ checked those out, thanks for the heads up dude. They are cheap - advertised locally for only $160AUD. Ferodo recommend an FRP3148 for the wilwood 7816 shape - but according to the website they don't do it DS1.11 compound.
The one you suggested is pretty close, but only 12.5mm, vs the 16ish mm for the dynapro radials.

https://ecat.ferodoracing.com/car-ra...e-pads/FRP3148
https://www.ferodoracing.com/product...ng-brake-pads/

Yup they are only 12.5mm but they last ages so it doesn't really matter. DS UNO is probably the better compound but I don't think it comes in either the FRP3148 or the FRP502 shapes. I run the DS1.11 on the front and rear of my car and they are awesome, especially if you are doing any hillclimb sprints where you are starting from cold. I used to run track pads but they had far too much bite and the first few corners I either couldn't stop or locked the brakes.

Rears I used to have to cut the oem shape by hand which is a mission, but I have Wilwood calipers for the rear now so I can get a shape to fit.

So to clarify the pad shape is FRP502, and these should work for the Dynalites and Dynapros with minor backing plate modifications?

They are pretty cheap (~100 euro) and if they really dont wear on the rotors that much they would be an ideal street pad which could handle some thrashing.

You can get FRP504Z (DSUNO). I've got a set in my box cut for a Dynapro ready to go on, but I'm still using DS1.11 fronts for less mu with Gloc R8 rears. My bias valve is almost fully open and I don't quite have enough rear bias under light trail braking so I'd like stronger rears.

I suspect DSUNO front with DS1.11 rear would work very well, but can't get the rears without some cutting up. Madjak do you have a picture of how you did it? It looks like you'd need to lose pad depth on the inner pad and I don't fancy hacking up actual pad material since that stuff won't be good for lungs.... I did talk to Ferodo about getting them made up, but I'd have to order 5 sets in one go and they wouldn't be cheap.

I was really surprised no one here seemed to be using DS1.11. In the UK, it's very widely used on all platforms. I've used it on my Megane 265 for years and my dad uses them on his R35 GT-R. Lots of mu from cold, good when hot, great life (but this reduces quickly if running >650C) The NVH isn't even bad either unless you only drive on the road and they need re-bedding. From my experience on the Megane, the DSUNO has similar cold bite but does rise with temperature. Once up to temperature it feels like a super DS1.11, though the life seems to drop quicker than the DS1.11 above 650C.

I'm not sure how they would work on the street. Pad life would be way less than a street pad surely.

For the Oem rear I had the pad width ground down by the brake guys. It was on $20 or something. I can have a look for the shape I used if you need. Cutting them was a bit painful and you need to me careful where the holes in the backing plate sit on the final pad.

I think it's best to run the same compound front and rear otherwise the bias changes with temp.

I'm now running Wilwood powerlites on the rear so I can get the right pad.

These pads are worth the effort though. Someone needs to order a batch cut to shape and sell them.

So no feed back on modifying the PFC's?
Got a mate in the US on holidays, would be sweet to get him to bring me back some brake pads, and pretty set on using the PFC's. I like them in the NA8 brakes, which is surprising cause I hated them when I first put them in.

does anyone know if 11.75 TSE kit will clear Koenig wide open 8" - 25mm ET? Thanks

Has anyone found a need for more than a high quality (PFC, AP, Wilwood HD) 11.75x0.81 rotor? I'm debating upgrading to a custom setup from my TSE Dynapro but unsure whether the effort, costs and compromises of going to a wider (1, 1.1 or 1.25) rotor will be worth it.

Yeah I was able to find the limit of a 11.6" x .81" rotor, granted it was a strait vane style and not a full 11.75 (mini cooper rotor) but it's close enough for a data point. This is with a 2550lb on track weight car with 400 whp. I'm looking at going to a 11.75x1.25" rotor since they are bigger of course, but cheap and have directional vane options readily available also cheap. My dynapro calipers have been reliable with no real negatives so I'll probably just change out the bridge spacer to step up to the wider rotor.

Perhaps better ducting to rotors

Reviving an old but great (IMO) thread.
Based on the oem brake bias of a regular NB ( non sport) which is safely balanced.
How much would you want to increase brake torque at the front/ rear and increase brake bias before it is too much ?
This is For a +250rwhp track car, on semi-slick, (225 wide or even 245...on 9")
High power + sticky tires increase the need for (or permit to have) more front bias... but too much of front brake torque, and you loose overall braking performance.

-> i'm trying to choose between Stoptech ST42 ( 36/38mm piston - 3.24 sq inch +23% brake torque vs oem) or wilwood dynapro radial (3 sq inch +11.2% vs oem) on 11"75 PFC rotor at the front, that will be paired with sport rear rotor with "regular" caliper ( +10 % brake torque vs oem - to retain good pad choice)
The wilwood setup keeps the same brake bias as oem ( which is "safe") but can i use the ST42 at the front safely and with better overall performance ?

That's going to depend entirely on your level of grip. The more grip you have, the more weight transfer you'll get, the more front bias you need.

I have sport brakes, which if my math is right, have 12% more rear bias (based on hydraulic area and rotor OD) than the regular 1.8 brakes. Even with a Wilwood adjustable brake bias valve dialed all the way to the rear, I still get front lockup first. I'd say the factory brake balance and prop valve combinations are extremely conservative. I've seen an old post from Keith at FM that said converting a 1.8 car to rear Sport rotors and calipers along with an adjustable prop valve would make a nicely biased system and allow the prop valve to actually have a usable adjustment range. I've found a caliper hydraulic area and rotor diameter that should give me that same brake bias.

All this research was done so I could make a DIY BBK myself based on Afco F88 calipers. Bronson McNemar lead me to the caliper I chose, as I was initially looking at one with 3" of hydraulic area prior to speaking with him.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...60da1dad1f.jpg


Here's a screenshot of my spreadsheet, and a huge reminder to do your own math and not trust random internet strangers.

Run a $50 manual rear prop valve and do whatever you want with brake bias...

Im running Bronson's setup in front and full sport in rear(caliper plus rotor). R12 pads front, R8 rears. I have my manual prop valve dialed 2 turns from full out(minimal rear brakes) and the car brakes super neutral. I could probably add a little more rear brake, but right now its working really well so I dont know if I will mess with it.