BEGI coolant reroute block off plate leaking.
 

Just installed the BEGI coolant reroute kit and for some reason the front thermostat blockoff plate is leaking right off the bat. I used RTV sealant as well as the included gasket, and I made sure the surface was perfect with dremel flapwheel before I put it all together. I noticed that the piece wasn't machined correctly and it didnt seem like the bolt holes lined up quite right and it was difficult to thread the bolts in it. I forced it and I'm wondering if it's warped or something now. Anyone else had this issue?

Cool story, maybe you should call them, lol

No experience with the begi piece since I made my own, but if it's made from 1/8" aluminum then yes it could bend. I noticed the same thing happening with my homemade part because I didn't drill the bolt holes big enough at first. I could see the plate flexing as I tried to torque it down.

If you want to fix it for good, put a freeze plug in the head.

When I can't get an aluminum part to fit right I don't just ram er home. 30 seconds with a file would have opened those holes up and you'd have no issues currently. If it's warped take it off, file the holes, turn it around and the bend might work in your favor now.

It's two bolts at the front of the engine. How much simpler can a part be to work on?

And that's the reason you don't work on your car half asleep and then post about it, although flipping it backwards is a pretty good idea and I'll give it a try after drilling out the holes a bit.

not sure if its coming out of the bolt holes or whatnot but throw some pipe sealant for good measure.

Am I missing something here? Like Scott has said can't you just use a welch plug? Works fine for me!

I'm using the small fitting on the thermostat tower to feed my turbo, so instead of re-doing my turbo's coolant plumbing, I'll just leave the tower there.

I dig. I'm using the m-tuned reroute, the neck blockoff plate is pretty substantial. Not installed yet, though.

Lol, welch plug, mate. I had my head tapped for one by the machinist, when I get really motivated I can pop the blocked off neck and stick in the welch plug. I'll just have to move the water feed to another port.

Needs moar RTV.

I made my own and I originally used a fairly thin sheet of Al (.100 maybe). It leaked under pressure (high rpm) since there are only two bolt holes and and a large surface area to cover flat. I remade the block off plate from 1/4" thick Al and it works great now. I'm not sure how thick the Begi piece is, but make sure you don't overtorque it as that will cause it to bow and the leak will pop up at the middle.

From the Begi site: Made from 3/16" thick aluminum, this plate will block off the front thermostat housing when doing a coolant re-route. It will still allow you to source coolant from the thermostat "neck" for turbo applications. This part will fit 1990-1993 Miatas.


Did you leave the waterneck in place and put the plate on that or did you take the neck off and try using it directly on the head. From what I remember, the spacing of the 2 is different. And for some reason, Begi lists 2 different parts for the 90-93, 94-05. I thought they were the same though. Maybe you got the wrong one or they sent you the wrong one.

I also remember Stephanie saying that they had to make that block off plate thicker because the first one they made leaked. Maybe they didn't make it thick enough after all. Don't know.

Interesting info. I was going to buy the begi piece, Im not sure now. Can anyone post pictures of a welch plug being used??

I might have a pic somewhere from when I installed it, but this is the general idea:

1. Measure hole in head. (20mm ?)
2a. Ask the parts store guy for a "welch plug" and let us know how that goes.
2b. Buy a "freeze plug."
3. Toss freeze plug in freezer to shrink it up a bit.
4. Find a hammer, and a socket that fits inside the freeze plug to use as a driver.
5. Pound it in the hole. :giggle:

Seems my post wasn't that useless afterall since it's a somewhat known issue. The leak seems to have slowed a bit. If all else fails. I'll jbweld the bitch on. :)

I would try buying some universal gasket material, cut your own gasket, silicone both sides (grey silicone & make sure everything is dry), let it get tacky, stick it on. Let it set. Add coolant. Profit.

The plate I have from BEGI is 5/16ths thick. No problem with fit or hole alignment.

I think the OP wouldn't have had problems if the part hadn't been forced into place and had taken the time to file or drill the hole slightly.

Definetly use sealant on both sides of the gasket. If BEGI is including the gaskets with the adhesive tape on both sides, chuck it and buy a better one. They are a cheap gasket.

Don't mess around with silicone sealer, its crap. If you ever have to redo it you spend lots of time cleaning up.

Look up a product called hylomar.

It works similar to rtv only it always remains tacky, but never dries. It's not bothered by coolant, oil or fuel and was originaly made for Rolls Royce jet engines.

Amazon.com: Permatex 85249 Hylomar Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket Dressing and Flange Sealant - 1.2 fl. oz.: Automotive

Use a socket bigger than the hole but small enough to hit the other edges of the welch plug, then you can't drive it in too far and it should sit nice and flat when you are done.

Are you for real about putting it in the freezer? Never heard of that one!

Throw the stupid block off plate away and buy a freeze plug. That is what Mazda uses when they put a BP engine in a font wheel drive car. The hole in the head is machined for a freeze plug to fit.

Bob

A freeze plug is a better solution, but it requires removing the timing belt backing plate, which requires removing the timing belt, which requires removing the cam cover, which requires a new gasket, etc. It's much simpler and cheaper to install a block off plate (as long as it doesn't leak). A freeze plug might be cheap by itself, but if you do it right, it would cost $50 or so to go in and replace stuff (not including the water pump).

Yarp, anytime you open a motor its going to cost you money. But for the op it might be worth it.

Funny thing is that I already knocked out that "welch plug" because my motor was originally an Escort motor. :) I'm not going that route anyway since that would mean having to find a different place to get coolant for the turbo.

yeah, its the same concept of putting a jar lid under hot water to make it expand to make it easyer to take off

We have special rivets in some places on f-16's and a-10 s that require rivets to be kept in a super cold freezer (-50F) so they stay soft, and shrink very slighty. Once they warm up they become brittle but strong as hell and expand to become an interference fit

The BEGI block off plate is made from 0.25" Aluminum. It is plenty thick. If you did not clean the surface of the cast housing prior to using gasket and sealant, that might be your problem. A freeze plug is a great idea, but not if you need to leave your coolant source intact.

Call and let me know if I can help.
Stephanie

Speaking of thermal expansion, we use it in my job as well. There are bushings we install where we heat the bushing up with a heater (to expand it) for installation on the OD of a spindle and we also freeze them in liquid nitrogen (to contract it) for installation on the ID of a hole.

It's already fixed. I opened up the holes on it with a dremel, and put it back on backwards from what I had it like suggested. No leaks.

Cool beans. I actually got something right for once!

I cant beleave that ive never seen this thread,The block offs I make are at least 3/8" thick with a fitting that will feed the turbo.I turn the on the lathe so I have a hard time remembering the exact thickness.Also large diameter washers spread out the clamping force,so it is less likely to leak.
(G)