I think exposed cam gears is ricey. Plus I have the vented hood so I don't really want to chance stuff being able to get on the timing belt. So I'll run a modified cam cover to access the cam gears (adjustable) on the dyno, but otherwise run a standard cover.

nice progress Ben, keep up the good work...

I love timing.

Once I build my motor we'll let hustler drive both cars back to back and see if he can tell your 9:1 compression vs. my 8.6:1

:robert:

You and I both know that the differences are negligible to non existent at large throttle angles, but for around town, compression is good. If I had 8.6 CR pistons, I'd use a fancy thin metal headgasket and be perfectly happy.

or deck the block or mill the head. which is probably what a built motor should get anyway, right?

Bump for update.

Parts I've compiled so far:
2001 Longblock, 23k https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/../...lies/smile.gif
2000 Cylinder Head
NA 1.8 cam cover, black texture w/ polished letters (to run full time)
NA 1.8 cam cover, black powder coat, exposed cam gears (for dyno tuning)
ARP head & main bolts*
JE Pistons, +.020, 9.0:1
CAT Rods
1999 Intake manifold
1999 Throttle body w/ TPS & IAC
1999 Fuel rail
1996 FPR
BEGi S5 Manifold
BEGi S5 SS Downpipe
Tial 38mm EWG
Vishnu Crank Trigger Wheel w/ Pickup
MSM Intake Cam
Adjustable Cam Gears
1.8 Alternator Bracket
3.308 ring and pinion (will send for Cryo)

Parts I still need:
Upgraded water pump
Bearings (all)
Upgraded oil pump
Engine gasket set
NA 1.8 auto alternator
Coolant re-route kit
6 Puck Clutch Disc
Big ass injectors
T3 turbo
TunerToys Fuel Rail
6 speed trans

Parts I purchased but won't be using:
FMIII Mani & Downpipe
Garrett T25
ARP Head Studs (Dog ate them)
2001 Cylinder Head

Considering running 550 RC injectors with an external fixed, but very low, rate of rise FMU like a Vortec with a 2:1 disc. Need to crunch some numbers.

Also considering lowering power goal in favor of spool. Thinking 350-375 whp (original goal was to break 400).

dibs on the greddy stuff...;)

What turbo are you going to run? go ahead and get the GT2871?

sweet deal Ben, keep the parts coming, I am almost done with my parts gathering as well
my list is not as extensive as yours to begin with, i had a 1.8 to start with

Get your BEGI parts?

Ordered, but not yet received.

No S5 is T3 based. Probably T3/T40E 50 trim compressor, with either the .64 or .48 turbine. Haven't decided if I want the spool or the powah.

That's the funny part, I have no idea why Corky called my S5 stuff custom. I sent them my turbine housing because I assumed ithey designed it for a T25 plastform. Never even read the writeup on the website about it, just knew what I wanted. So even though they built my part with my turbine housing, which is a normal T3 like every other T3 out there it still didn't come out right.

I might end up going to the T04E depending on your results if I don't like my T3 60.

:eek:


:jerkit:

Chad, you'll like the T3 60 with your build.

BTW Ben you changed to a 2000 head; why?

It's the same 00 head. Most people don't seem to understand that 99 and 00 are the same, so sometimes it helps to clarify things by stating 99.

what's upgraded about the water pump, and why an alternator from an auto?

automatics have more amps

ben think you could get a deal getting two motors built? :bigtu:

Ben works right down the street from a machine shop that has done several things for me - Will's. They've been in business forever and have done stuff for Downing over the years. Nothing fancy (like race engine stuff) but they do the job right and they're not high dollar like race engine shops.

Yeah Will's will be taking care of the machine work on my block and planing the head and what not.

Corky's reroute looks nice but the only thing I don't like is the fact that is move the sensor and heater outlet to the outside of the thermostat so that there is no water bypass unless you drill a hole in the thermostat.
I'm using some BEGI parts for my reroute.
The spacer:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/cjernigan/R_4zc...JPG?imgmax=144

As well as the hardline for the intake manifold:
http://www.bellengineering.net/Image...o/PA032372.JPG

I'm going to use a 1.8 or 1.6 thermostat neck on top of the spacer with the thermostat between that housing and the spacer just like people that use the JR spacer. Run that to the hardline and to the upper rad hose. I'm going to plug the hole for the heatercore hardline off the waterpump neck and tap the spacer for the heatercore inlet. I'll then tap the housing for a 90* fitting or weld some AL tubing onto it to reintroduce the heater back into the system.

As for the CLT sensor, i'll be putting that in the head. The BEGI outlet neck doesn't allow that because the tube covers the plug in the head. Using the 1.6 neck though you get pretty much the same thing and you can use that hole in the head.

I'll be blocking the front off and finding hoses that fit my purpose when i do the install.