Miatamaniac92

So I'm still having cooling issues at the track, I would like opinions on what my next best step should be.

My setup:
91-1.6
Greddy turbo, RM 2.5 Downpipe, 2.5 Enthuza, and TDR IC, Amsoil 10w-40
BEGI AFPR, Bipes, Hustler's Pink/Red Injector's (NB 1.8's)
Godspeed Radiator, siliconintakes.com fans in parallel, belly pan, shrouding on bottom sides and top of radiator, AC
~15% coolant mix, waterwetter
BEGI Street Reroute (Heater return to upper radiator hose, metal line under the exhaust manifold capped off)

Trackday problem on Friday;
Afternoon, ambient temps ~100°F
This was in San Marcos, TX at Harris Hill Road 1.78 Mile Roadcourse
Top Speed's in the 80's

The first session, I let the car idle for ~10 minutes whilst waiting for the session to begin. I did the warm up lap and had 2-3 good laps before I noticed the temp gauge starting to move. After another lap at 8/10 it was at the 1 o'clock position so I pitted to let it cool down. It got hotter, roughly between the 1:30 and 2:00 position.

Next sessions less idle time meant I got more clean laps in prior to pitting. The third session and fourth session I didn't pit (and kept the heater on the whole session). There were not very many cars so I took it down to 5/10's for a couple laps to cool down and then finish the session strong.

My current options, from most desirable to least desirable:
-Oil temp gauge and real coolant temp gauge or linearize it, find out what temps I'm really running
-Oil Cooler, cutting out spot for the cooler through the belly pan
-hood ducting/vents to increase airflow (I like the price for this mod but don't like the less than stock look)
-Double pass radiator ala M2CupCar

Should I really be worrying about temps ~1 o'clock? This is about as hot as it gets for a TX trackday.

Will an oil cooler effect my temps enough to keep coolant temp down a reasonable amount?

Chris

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

First, get real temp gauges - a decent autometer electrical water temp gauge is like under $50 from Summit. I've noticed several heat issues with my real gauge when the stock water gauge hadn't even begun to move. "1 o'clock" could be 220 or 250 degrees, who knows.

#1 recommendation from me would be oil cooler. Oil has a much higher thermal capacity (I think that is the right term) than water i.e. it wants to stay whatever temp. it is - it takes longer to heat up than water and once it is too hot, even after you baby it and the water temp is reading OK again, the oil will still be too hot. If you can keep the oil temp cool (within proper range), it will help keep the whole motor cooler - so the water will have less work to do instead of the water trying to do all the work itself, fighting the high oil temps.

-Ryan

BenR

iTrader: (2)

Yes.

kaisersoze

iTrader: (8)

Well I think a true temp gauge is mandatory.
Beyond the oil cooler another option would be a waterless coolant like those from Evans which should help at least moderately.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

shroud the front of the radiator, then try again. Air would rather go around the heat exchangers than through them.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

The top is sealed up a the intercooler which sucks...I need BEGi to move my intercooler back 3", until then I'll use the scooper yet to be installed.
whyhellothar


needs more miatas:

edit: vascularity you can only dream of:

BenR

iTrader: (2)

Needs more hustler on track.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

this is one of the final steps in track readiness. Brake ducting, alignments, and fixed leaking valve are the only phases left. Then, the streets will flow with the blood of the non-believers. If I weren't in Philly right now, I'd be under the car turning wrenches.

Miatamaniac92

It's all shrouded in.

Is that Gary's new shop?

Chris

Cspence

iTrader: (11)

Cut a hole in your bumper cover....
DSC03349.jpg?t=1240448913

Miatamaniac92

Don't get mugged, that's one dirty city.

Chris

hustler

iTrader: (6)

a tranny hooker just offered me her "clean" *** for $50 right when I walked out of my hotel.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Is i totally sealed? If so, then buy a real oil cooler. After that, autokkkonexion hood.


yes

hustler

iTrader: (6)

why? It doesn't raise pressure. Do you have a vented hood? Bernoulli FTW!

thesnowboarder

iTrader: (15)

I love how clean that bay is ^

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Of course it raises pressure, you twit. The question is whether you WANT to raise pressure. There is an ideal ratio of mouth area to radiator area, something on the order of 1:3.

I had a hole cut in my old nose. There's no hole in my new RB nose. Take that as you will.

l_bader

Chris -

If you have a 1:3 ratio (inlet to heat exchanger) and you have shrouded to prevent air by-pass, then the next step in optimizing that particular coolant system component is heat extraction. - Meaning venting. The autokonexion hood, BEGi's hood vents or roll your own.

Another option is to add another component to the coolant system. An oil cooler has already been discussed and sounds like an excellent idea, provided you do not get your oil temps too low during routine driving. (Corky is working on an oil cooler by-pass system, though I'm not certain how close it is to "prime-time"...)


- L

BradC

iTrader: (6)

C'mon, its not that bad here!

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

Is this your way of saying you're not going to be able to afford a track day anytime soon?

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Well, it is the city of brotherly love...


What % is your mix of coolant to distilled water? Are you using Water Wetter or that Redline stuff yet?

BTW - I prefer mechanical temperature gauges over electrical because of the fluctuations that can occur in electrical gauges.

Edit: Are you using a chin spoiler of any kind to help to create a stronger low pressure area behind the radiator?