better pics of wheel just painted them black
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This "wobbly", is it a resonance in the body due to differing diameters or tracking issues due to varying patch width?

don't think that much in to it.

miata=balanced car

different sizes:ne:balanced car

plus the miata is a "gay" car. and apparently the ASA wheels you are considering are gay as well.

together this overdose of homosexuality will turn you into an ---- splunker

sounds like you know what you're talking about:jerkit:

Am I missing something???? As long as the diameter of the wheels match why would they wobble???? I am not sure if the wobble would be caused by different contact patch to the ground...

You say

miata=balanced car

different sizes doesn't equal balanced car

well then if thats true then why not

Porche=balanced car
S2k=balanced car

then why are their tire sizes different???
the logic doesn't flow, there has to be more to this. I am willing to try the setup and I am pretty sure if done right there should be no wobble...
my 2 cents.

try this for logic

miata:ne:porsche:ne:s2k


too be clear though, if you're just talking about different diameter wheels, same width tires, you should be fine, besides some weird weight differences, which would make the front suspension work differently then the rear. so yeah, don't even do that.

staggered mesh?
http://www.memoryfab.com/wheels/used/a20071219170134/

Question on the 15x8 wheel though, will they fit with just rolling fenders?

There is a whole fitment guide on 949racing.com. If you are talking about the 15x8 +38 or whatever they are. Any less offset and your looking at roll/flares.


Two different sets of wheels on the front/back looks pretty damn retarded IMO. I like the factory NB body kit, and I like the front wheels, but if I saw you on the street I'd just consider you another honda-fanboyish dude with two different sets of wheels.

Have sold hundreds of wheels on different cars and fitments. Never heard this kind of bs except from you. Make an argument thats logical. Don't just say shit if you don't know the answer. And I am not talking about different diameter wheels. I am talking about different width wheels and tires. You should keep the rolling diameter the same. Oh by the way take some logic courses. Your logic really sux!

When BMW and Mercedes and Porsche run fatter rubber on the rear, it's simply to introduce more understeer, and you happen to get more contact patch to boot. To simplify it as much as possible and for what i understand, the car will rotate on the axis that still has traction. When you oversteer, you rotate around the front tires when they loose traction. Adding more rubber in the back, give you more traction in the rear, and this reduces the tendency to oversteer.

adding thinner, shorter, lower offset in the rear....who knows.

Looks like this car either drags, or drifts.

Changing sidewall height affects alot of things, taller sidewalls in the back would be great for a drift car. Look at dirt sprint cars as an example.

Bigger rear wheels are only OK for going in a straight line. Of course, it does go 8.40 @ 163, so I guess it does the straight line thing pretty well.

I like to rotate my tires front to rear. If there is no compelling reason to go with a staggered setup I don't see why I'd want to loose this ability.

I'd tune my suspension with things like spring rates, swaybars and shocks before I'd do so with tires.

Aren't most drag radials 15"?

Hell, I don't know, I just wanted to post the pic. I saw the car yesterday browsing ads on racingjunk.com.:noob:

It does have a 406 SBC with nitrous.

I can see issues with a larger diameter in the rear; you effectively raise the center of gravity and push the weight forward. (With the change in ratio increasing as the differential between heights increases.)

Provided you kept the diameter the same, I would expect the wider tires in rear would provide increased traction and therefore application of power (read: accelaration) within reasonable limits. - No tubbed wheel-wells and 275s. (Too much rubber on the road could lead to reduced accelaration or damaged parts.) Also, with the smaller width to the front I would expect a little more "bite" for cornering.

Keep in mind I am looking at the problem with a moderate change, say 225-235s in the rear and 195s up front. Not something like the drag car running 165s fronts and 315
rears. My target use is mixed between straight-line high speed passes (1+ mile courses) and long distance road racing instead of Auto-X.

(And yes, I know this would lead to increased tire wear because they cannot be rotated. The problem is intensified if you consider directional tires.)

- L