I was pulling off of the bypass last Sunday and all of a sudden after turning off cruise control and downshifting to match the speed of the off ramp, I had no throttle response. After that a extremely low idle while running very rich. I stopped at a gas station and tried to find something that was obviously wrong, but there was nothing. I later found my bov was just stuck open and I wasn't making boost. I took off my bov, cleaned it, lubed it, made sure it actuated and put it back together. After that my bov doesn't open. When I shift I get turbo flutter instead.
In addition to running rich I also can't tune it properly cause on deceleration it doesn't drop back to the bottom of the fuel map (like normal.) This along with hearing a sucking noise coming from the intake made me think it was a vacuum leak. I have found no such leak. (It's not the nipple on the back of the intake either.) Replaced the coolant temp sensor on back of block just to be sure the ecu didn't think the engine was cold and in turn dump a bunch of fuel.
Just super lost rn and could use some direction and help.

It is a WanSmoke turbo kit. Not great quality. https://www.shop.wansmoke.com/produc...t-on-turbo-kit
This is the current setup:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kRX...usp=drive_link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/14gt...usp=drive_link


I'm running a msqpnp2 on tuner studio. Running at 10 degrees timing to make it safe for boost.
These were the values before all of this happened. Tune had not been perfected yet, but it ran good.
Tune Before This


These are the values now. As stated previously I can't tune it properly cause all of the gears are staying roughly in the same area, even on decel. So some spots are rich in 1st or 2nd, but decent in 5th. Or vice versa.
Tune Now

I just finished replacing my intake manifold gasket cause I heard a sucking noise coming from the intake. I couldn't find any vacuum leak but as a last ditch Thought maybe that was it the gasket. No change. Have doused everywhere around the intake system with brake clean and found nothing.

Screen recording. You can hear how aggressive the turbo flutter is.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jFI...ew?usp=sharing

Data Log:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OzS...ew?usp=sharing

(I also didn't realize how messed up my spark table is rn. I tried to use auto tune to help me get it drivable a couple days ago but it seems to have really messed up my spark map. Only now saw it when opening datalog viewer)

Any ideas? Thanks.

 

Your map sensor is barely responding, min of 67kpa, max of 102. So it's not really seeing boost, and not much vacuum. I would say inspect your MAP line, it shouldn't be T'd anywhere, although T'ing for boost gauges and fuel pressure regulators is common. If those are plastic T's, I've seen those break. If they're the wrong size, soaked in oil, or not zip tied, they can blow off.

 

I did not check the t’s, That’s a good point. My first instinctive thought was the map as well but there’s no map sensor on a 1.6 as far as I can see. Could it possibly be the sensor inside the msq (ecu) that reads/responds to the vaccum? I have it set to controller auth 15%. But I don’t think that’s enough to make it run as rich as it is. Also how would I run the system without using T’s? I can also try and make sure they’re all zip tied cause of couple of them aren’t.

 

Well you have no TPS, so your entire tune is based off the MAP sensor. And yes, I meant the one built into the MS.

If you're in boost, but the MS only reads atmospheric, it's giving you naturally aspirated fuel and timing, so it'll be crazy lean and way too advanced.

Likewise, if you're in vacuum (idle), but it's reading 70kpa (usually closer to 30kpa), you'll be getting too much fuel.

 

That makes sense while I'm idling. But it was also running unbearably rich while in boost before I had to adjust to compensate for whatever's wrong rn.

 

I unfortunately have still not yet found the issue. I have replaced the entire throttle body, and icv. It's not my fuel pressure regulator either. I swapped one of my buddies with mine for a bit and it functions the same. I know my bov actuates freely by hand and it retains smoke in a smoke test. I even bought a cheap amazon 3 bar map sensor and went through the hassle of wiring, taking apart the ecu and switching to the external map setting manually. Even after all that and going through and calibrating the MAP sensor with the manufacture's values... it ran the EXACT same... (Video listed below)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eOB...ew?usp=sharing

Could a clogged hose make the kpa (vacuum) high?

I have absolutely no idea what it could be at this point... I may just replace all of my vacuum lines for good measure... Maybe buy a bov and whole intake at this point and resell them if not needed.
Truly and utterly confused and just defeated. Does anybody have any ideas?