So in to make whatever do whatever it needs to if drawings are available. I can have stuff CMM'd but it takes a while.

I could do it, and maybe spit out a few in 1/2" mild. Anything else we'd have to special order.

Guess I'll have to hit my buddy up for the details. We put a VW TDI (1.9l) on a supra 5 speed for a vovlo project and it worked flawlessly, what I don't remember is what we did for the shaft length. I'll see if I can get some info.

Interestingly, he just put a T5 in another volvo, rebuilt it and said it was a snap.



Huh, only useful pic I found:
http://abefm.smugmug.com/photos/150450589_PpbS8-M.jpg
and it wasn't that useful.

A large enough flatbed scanner is a quick way to make a template of something. :-)

I got a Faro arm at work, that's what I used on the miata trans. I could do another trans...or I have plenty of LS blocks and small block ford blocks at work, I could faro the bell housing flange of each...would that help? We probably have any american V8 block...except a small block chevy (a big joke at work).

I don't mind doing that... but I'd kinda want to have it sold before I have knockoffs of it made.

No offense guys...

ACME ADAPTERS Suzuki Samurai Turbo Diesel

I guess this is where the output shaft adapter came from, though the plate we made ourselves with a cheapy harbor freight plasma cutter and some wooden guides we made on a bandsaw.

The "Ford T5" isn't a bad option. This has been on my wanted list for years now. Many a T5 has lasted some serious abuse and MUCH more power than our little rubber bands could ever muster. They're readily available, very inexpensive, and available in MANY different gear ratios. I have 3 sitting in my shed right now.

T5s sell for 200$. T56's sell for 800 - 2000$ used I've seen. You can get an aftermarket Tremec branded TKO-600 which will hold 600+ # of torque. You can order a TKO straight out of jegs for less than 2000$ shipped IIRC, or buy a Tremec 3550 from a mustang owner for < 500$ used. I've seen straight cut gear sets, syncrodelete conversions, all sorts of goofy crazy shit.

Two HUGE HUGE advantages of the T series tremec style transmissions is unlike OUR unit the bellhousing is a separable piece. To compensate for extra added thickness of an adapter plate, just take the bell housing and cut off the engine side of the plate. Machine up a new engine mount for it, tig it on. The T5's input shaft is a 10 spline and is larger than ours, so a new one would have to be fabricated or a 10 spline clutch disk would need to be made, then have the shaft turned down slightly. Most T5s used cable clutch release, but specifically the bellhousing for the Ford Thunderbird TurboCoupe used a hydraulic slave cylinder and fork similar to our factory unit.

Also available in later model mustangs and not as durable is the T45. I'd stay away from these simply because they're just not as strong. Seriously doubt we'd break ANY of them though.

Borg Warner T5:
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Im...smission-A.jpg
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Im...smission-B.jpg

Tremec 3550:
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Im...smission-A.jpg
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Im...smission-B.jpg

Borg Warner T56:

http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Im...smission-A.jpg
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Im...smission-B.jpg

The T56 might be a little harder to stuff in a miata 4 cylinder due to space requirements, but I've honestly never really measured them up side by side. There is really little difference between a Ford, Chevy, or Chrysler T56. IRRC there were two manufactures, Tremec made a few but more commonly was the Borg Warner. They're pretty stout transmissions, but you have to take care of them. Missing 1-2 shifts too many times will pretty well trash it. I've seen more than one F-Body person miss shifts too many times, overshift with improperly adjusted shift stops on aftermarket shifters, etc. Bends the shift forks pretty easily and requires a rebuild eventually. If you take your time and shift properly but swiftly you'll have very little problem with them.

One last thing that just came into mind. All of the above will require driveshaft modifications, and since our u-joints aren't user serviceable much like upper ball joints, you'll need output yolk from the ford unit, have it welded onto the end of your shaft, maybe cut down, whatever differential provisions on the other end. I know a good local driveline shop here in Kansas City Missouri who does EXCELLENT work if anyone needs a place to send theirs to. Took them a shaft, measurements, and what yolks were needed. They cut it down to length, welded on new ends, new u-joints, balanced it.. 135$. Took 3 days.

Just my random input to the transmission thread, sorry it has nothing to do with FWD application OP...

no problem, the fwd topic is a little OT for this forum anyway :)

the last time i heard from "the guy making the plate", he said he should be finished sometime this weekend.... i've got my fingers crossed that i'll hear from him soon, and that he will be shipping this week!

custom clutch came in yesterday...

1800# pressure plate, 6 puck disc 225mm w/ toyota 21 spline sprung center hub

Attachment 204190

more delays...

Apparently the drawing that TurboTim made with his faro arm a few months ago is somehow too far off to use. The machinist making my adapter cut a test piece on his CNC based on that pattern, and the crank centerline was off by 0.073". The bolt pattern on the oil pan section of the bellhousing is also slightly different between FWD/AWD and RWD, which i didnt realize.

Anyway, he had his BP pattern scanned on a CMM table and using that new pattern made up a sample adapter... close but no cigar, the crank centerline was still off by 0.010". He is making some final adjustments and should be finished soon. :)

I know this is an old thread but the files is no longer hosted it seems. I would like a copy of this file and I could host it if needed.

Regards,

Miguel

I looked at my Faro data, and if you draw a line between the dowel pins and set that as your "X" axis reference, the throwout bearing sleeve surface (the origin in my model as the inputshaft had a lot of play radially) is ~.076 below that line and ~.006 from the center of the line horizontally. Also in my Faro model is the output shaft and that's inline with the origin. Also, both dowel pins and the bearing surface were measured twice, once to orient the solidworks coordinate system, the second time to add the geometry to the sketch. The above dimensions are within .0006" comparing the two sketches. Perhaps the dowel pins were measured off, both times the same amount basically, or your machinist is wrong, or the throwout bearing sleeve thing isn't concentric with the input shaft/crank shaft, but they why would the trans output shaft be concentric with the bearing sleeve? I can't tell unless I Faro my old BP (which is the right way to do it), but I won't transport that to work for no good reason.

Clairetoo used my .dxf when she did her KL to miata trans adapter. That works great. :dunno: Sorry it didn't work out for you!


If you want to risk using my perhaps incorrect .dxf, PM me your email address, or email me. You can find my email address if you try.

another dead thread revival is the BP bellhousing dxf still around? I'd love to get a copy

Oh yea me too lol