Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Please post exactly what you need to do to put a FC alternator in NA and NB Miata.

This alternator apparently makes more amps or volts n stuff.

Please also post if ANY FC alt will work. Or if only the TII alts etc.

Thank you.

tasty danish

iTrader: (9)

I know nothing about a miata specific install, but I can tell you that FC guys often switch theirs out with an FD alt, which has more amps, and it's an easy upgrade.

Were I you, I'd go straight for the head.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I am googling it and it looks like the FC alt is not that much more juicy than the miata alternator :(

http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/fdalt.htm

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

anyone ever put on a FD alt?

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Why are you looking for more output? I've been considering upgrading the the RX7 alt to help with voltage drop when I try pulling 820 watts for my audio system. IIRC you would just need to buy/fabricate some spacers or something.

The thing about higher output alternators is the higher output is only available at above-idle RPMS. They can even push less amps than stock at idle. I'm not sure about the RX7 alts though.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

I have to give happy full power to

2x 044 fuel pumps
1x 150psi water injection pump
LS coilz

This is mostly to squeeze as much as possible out of my fuel system. At high boost/rpm, voltage takes a big shi and so does my fuel flow.

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Right. I forgot you were running dual pumps.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

they mount exactly the same. the FC has the v-notch pulley, the FD has a 5 rib.

youll just have to maybe use a new lower bolt and/or washers for spacers.

reverant will know for sure.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Ya I think I can move my miata pulley wheel over.

I am wondering about the two prong alt connector though. What is that anyways? Hot and...

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

FD alt has more amps, is a drop-in for the 1.8s (You may have to modify one point slightly, may not). Even the stock bolt fit as is for me.

I'm running one myself. Made me go from 12.6v at idle to a rock-solid 13.5v.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Drop in meaning zero wiring modification?

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Indeed, zero wiring modifications.

The only change I had to make was grinding my alternator bracket a tiny bit to get the FD alt to clear a specific point.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Yup. FD alt, before I managed to make my MS2 control the stocker. It is 100 amps, internally regulated, and bolts on directly with no issues.

The reason why I went back to the stock one was because the FD alternator was putting too much of a load on my engine. Also, on hot days, the voltage would drop to ~13V.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

pmg my fukkn ---- in my ***. I judt modded my harness for NA laternator n niw i have to uhdoe it for FD GOODNEESS. My frakking *** c. And replace my tranes. BICHES

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Uh, Fae, stop being drunk for a second. Think about the FD alt vs. the NA alt.

Leave your freaking harness alone, don't touch anything, and drop in the FD alt.

That's all you need to do.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Tonigr. I am drubk. But really

I have an NB

MODDED HARNESS FOR NA MIATA ALT

Can i plop in fd alt? If so plz explain. I tried cery hard to write this. :(

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Goddamnit Faefae.

The FD alt is just an NA alt with higher amps, and one additional circuit input we don't give a ---- about and don't hook up.

If your NB is set up for an NA alt, it's set up for a FD alt.

Zaphod

Just sawzall the circuit out...

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

You don't need to connect the 2-wire connector to the alt for it to work. I had it unplugged.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I told you not to, the NA alt is a 65A POS. Just drop the FD in, you can acutally buy ones that are rated well above the 100A factory units.