Car is dead
Okay so my car is down....it cranks but nothing happens. Does not start :td:
It all started when I went into boost...it basically felt like someone was pulling on the e-break and slowing the car down. Than the car started loosing more and more power. One day I decided to add a bunch of timing and noticed that the car did improve in drivability and pulled quite well. So I was under impression that it had something to do with my timing. I checked the timing belt and its alignment and it was perfect...so I need help in trouble shooting. So basically what would make the car crank but not start??? What I did: changed fuel pressure regulator changed spark plugs...and made sure that there is spark changed ecu settings changed air flow meter changed injectors checked fuel pump....ok checked timing...ok checked fro fuel delivery...ok checked for fuel pressure.....ok Any suggestions?? I hate the sun being out and my car being a garage queen. |
compression test?
|
in for answer.
Check connections on the harness. |
Maybe you have an air leak that isn't visible -?
Or, how old is you catalytic convertor? Real old? Could be an exhaust restriction. Kinda like a potato stuck in your pipe! Being a 1990 car - Maybe your crank key is a little fucked up in the groove and making your timing the shits. When was the last time anyone looked at that? |
I 2nd lola's suggestion. when you checked timing, did you check your crank bolt? even if its a long nose.
|
How about the catalytic converter. Our 96 did the same stuff before it deid unbolt the cat a little and see if that helps.
|
I'm in for: pending results of compression test.
|
Meow.
|
well don't feel bad.. braineack just killed his car (motor).
|
Originally Posted by Newbsauce
(Post 121240)
well don't feel bad.. braineack just killed his car (motor).
|
Short nose crank failure.
Incorrectly routed PCV system. One of the above is correct. :) Classic sign is that he increased timing and it helped for a while, and now it won't start. I don't think loss of compression (unless it was like a hole in the block) would act this way. |
Originally Posted by Mechazawa
(Post 121142)
compression test?
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 121146)
in for answer.
Check connections on the harness.
Originally Posted by LOLA - 92
(Post 121151)
Maybe you have an air leak that isn't visible -?
Or, how old is you catalytic convertor? Real old? Could be an exhaust restriction. Kinda like a potato stuck in your pipe! No restrictions in the Exhaust....I checked for that. And I have a straight pipe...no cat. Being a 1990 car - Maybe your crank key is a little fucked up in the groove and making your timing the shits. When was the last time anyone looked at that?
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 121167)
I 2nd lola's suggestion. when you checked timing, did you check your crank bolt? even if its a long nose.
Originally Posted by magnamx-5
(Post 121237)
Meow.
|
Originally Posted by jayc72
(Post 121243)
Short nose crank failure.
Incorrectly routed PCV system. One of the above is correct. :) Classic sign is that he increased timing and it helped for a while, and now it won't start. I don't think loss of compression (unless it was like a hole in the block) would act this way. Okay so yeah I did add timing and it did help out. Than after a couple of days it started dying again and it would not start up. Also before everything went down the car's EGT was always high like crazy. Regardless of what I was doing and more so when I was trying to boost. And I was getting huge backfires. However when the boost would go up the car seemed to decrease in power. Yeah although I am still going to do a compression test...I don;t think it is that. So what does one do to fix this little problem....where do i start. Should I just do a 1.8 swap lol?? |
Get used 1.6 motor and call it a day.
|
Cat Cat Cat i went through the same thing and changed the Timming belt, Cas, KAS coils, WP, and the FP relay. And all i needed to do was open the cat and run a hard wire for the FP. The mod is 2 14 mm bolts spray plenty of WD40 etc and then make a inch or so of room to allow it to flow just in case if it works then just beat the hell out of it, and you will have a running car. ;)
|
Originally Posted by magnamx-5
(Post 121315)
Cat Cat Cat i went through the same thing and changed the Timming belt, Cas, KAS coils, WP, and the FP relay. And all i needed to do was open the cat and run a hard wire for the FP. The mod is 2 14 mm bolts spray plenty of WD40 etc and then make a inch or so of room to allow it to flow just in case if it works then just beat the hell out of it, and you will have a running car. ;)
|
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 121146)
in for answer.
Check connections on the harness. |
It aint' compression. How bad does the compression have to be accross all 4 cyl for that car not to start?
OP says he checked timing, I'd check it again, bet it is all over the place if you can even get something meaningful. Might be a plugged cat, but it certainly isn't an issue with compression. How in the hell does advancing the timing help with loss of compression? |
Originally Posted by shayrgob
(Post 121371)
possibility...but I would LOVe to see the results of a compression test. if you don't have a compression tester I would be willing to help you out. I live in Gurnee and I work at protege garage in libertyville...check us out sometime!! We have 2 miatas in teh shop right now.
Originally Posted by jayc72
(Post 121381)
And which harness might that be?
Originally Posted by jayc72
(Post 121382)
It aint' compression. How bad does the compression have to be accross all 4 cyl for that car not to start?
OP says he checked timing, I'd check it again, bet it is all over the place if you can even get something meaningful. Might be a plugged cat, but it certainly isn't an issue with compression. How in the hell does advancing the timing help with loss of compression? The pully did wobble and there was oil that was leaking out....I guess it was bound to happen. Stupid short nose. Drifting probably did not help either...lol. |
Originally Posted by LOLA - 92
(Post 121151)
Maybe you have an air leak that isn't visible -?
Or, how old is you catalytic convertor? Real old? Could be an exhaust restriction. Kinda like a potato stuck in your pipe! Being a 1990 car - Maybe your crank key is a little fucked up in the groove and making your timing the shits. When was the last time anyone looked at that? |
Also if you can get down there to see there is a mark for the locator pin on the pulley put that straight up and the timming mark should be on 0 if it is not then you need a new harmonic balancer 100 or so $ Retarded timming and no exhaust flow will make egts go sky high
|
Originally Posted by LOLA - 92
(Post 121452)
If you are lucky maybe the crank pulley (aka harmonic balancer is just giving you lousy readings because it has started to separate). Sure fire (easy) way to tell if your balancer is FBAR, is to stick something longish (dowel) into cylinder #1 and rotate it til it is at TDC - Look at your timing groove and see if the marks are at TDC.
That's the funny thing...I did that and it all checked out....2 full turns and the mark was back at the TDC.
Originally Posted by magnamx-5
(Post 121481)
Also if you can get down there to see there is a mark for the locator pin on the pulley put that straight up and the timming mark should be on 0 if it is not then you need a new harmonic balancer 100 or so $ Retarded timming and no exhaust flow will make egts go sky high
|
2 Attachment(s)
|
Engines only need 4 things to run.
-Fuel/air (check injectors/fuel pump, try a shot of carb clean to try to start it, ect.) -Compression (even 100 psi will run an engine) -Spark (enough for 1/2" gap minimum) -The above mentioned occuring in the right order. Start checking the systems one by one untill you find which one you don't have. |
Originally Posted by magnamx-5
(Post 121494)
nah check this out
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...g?t=1181351293 http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...g?t=1181351332 Thanks for the pics bro. Hopefully I wont be too busy and can start to tear into the engine to see this. Adam |
Originally Posted by lazzer408
(Post 121524)
Engines only need 4 things to run.
-Fuel/air (check injectors/fuel pump, try a shot of carb clean to try to start it, ect.) -Compression (even 100 psi will run an engine) -Spark (enough for 1/2" gap minimum) -The above mentioned occuring in the right order. Start checking the systems one by one untill you find which one you don't have. Anyone have one local to me?? |
OK so the short nose crank problem accured. The Kew way was messed up and so was the terminal on the crank. I am going to try to fix the problem with some JB weld. I heard some people were successful with that. But I know that its time for a new crank....yay!!!!
Thanks for the Help!! Adam |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:01 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands