cheap v-maxx suspension?
I recently spotted these on ebay, wat do u guys think? Does anybody have experience with them? How do they perform handling wise?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/V-Max...2em118Q2el1247 |
$400 could get you close to a legit suspension setup. Id be afraid of that v-maxx shit, but try it out and let us know..
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The price is right, but the spring rates suck HARD.
NA F 308/154, R 308/132 NB F 308/154, R 374/132 (the second numbers are helper springs) These rates would indicate terrible oversteer, especially the NB. If they had 500lb springs in the front, then they wouldn't have been able to keep them in stock at full price ($500). |
spring rates
Understear is when the car won't stear through a curb it goes straight right? Or is that overstear?
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understeer=won't turn
oversteer=spin around |
oversteer=scared passenger
understeer=scared driver |
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car. Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall. Torque: how far you take the wall with you. |
You'd be much better off getting a set of Kayaba's (AGX) and throwing on a good set of springs.
(Following info is purely my own research: use at your own risk; I came up with this solution when I was looking for a cheap autox setup) However, if you do want to experiment with the v-maxx, and low cost is your goal, I suggest you throw away the rear springs and get PN 96485K259 from www.mcmaster.com. These springs have a 230 lb/in spring rate (near-perfect for 300 lb/in front on a miata) and are rated at 1000 lbs max. each. At $25 each they're worth a try. Throw away both main and helper springs, and install them. Then tell us all how well it works. |
lol
I currently have the same rates front and rear, and its fun for screwing around but no fun when the ass comes around when you least expect it (BTDT) but I'm in thr market for new suspension now and very tempted to do just what the pipefather here suggests.. |
you'd probably want to go stiffer in the front instead of going softer in the rear...
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Yes but I doubt those shocks can take it.
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Originally Posted by reddroptop
(Post 208416)
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car. Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall. Torque: how far you take the wall with you. to OP, you get what you pay for...i would stay away from that though, but then again, im big on suspension more so than power, so to each his own |
Oversteer = rear in pole
Understeer = front in pole |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 209084)
Oversteer = rear in pole
Understeer = front in pole |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 209084)
Oversteer = rear in pole
Understeer = front in pole oversteer = o yeah understeer = o shit :) |
wat are helper springs? Arent these spring rates higher than the one flying miata offers?
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oversteer - JDM tyte
understeer - no skreet cred |
helpers are for support and to prevent sideways movement of the spring. They compress fully when you mount them on the car. Spring rates are not too shabby on the front. Its the back that's the problem. For a 300 front you need no more than 200 rear with the stock anti-roll bars.
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i was thinking about running those but then decided that risk is not worth it. even if you upgrade to 1" solid sway bar up front and remove your rear bar you will STILL have oversteer
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Keep in mind the shocks aren't adjustable...You could probably by some KYB GR2s and some ebay springs/perches and have the same setup.
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Originally Posted by whaaamx5
(Post 209078)
this is my new favorite response ever!!!!111!!!1
to OP, you get what you pay for...i would stay away from that though, but then again, im big on suspension more so than power, so to each his own I wish I could take credit. Jeremy Clarkson of TopGear fame came up with it, or one of his writers did. |
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