y8s

iTrader: (8)

case of beer and andrew jackson might get your machinst to solve hustlers problem?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Anyone who talks **** to Tim prior to me getting my bolts in hand is getting banned!!!

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

I'm special in a way that doesn't help us here.

Case of beer does work for payment for this guy if I can't figure it out $20 might cover the drill bits if they work. Otherwise the carbide jobbies are $20 each :(

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I'll pay for a few drill bits and a couple packs of fine Belgian Ale.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

solid carbide bits aren't that much at your local mcmaster.


Jobbers’–Length Drill Bits
Uncoated (Bright Finish) 118° Split Straight 2956A61 $7.51
Uncoated (Bright Finish) 150° Split Straight 3171A31 11.59
Long-Life TiN Coated 118° Split Straight 27515A34 9.24
Super-Life TiALN Coated 118° Split Straight 8879A12 9.24
Diamond-Coated 118° Split Straight 3162A11 24.67
Straight Flute Drill Bits
Uncoated (Bright Finish) 135° Split Straight 8944A11 $9.36
Long-Life TiN Coated 135° Split Straight 8882A11 10.89
Specialty Drill Bits
Uncoated (Bright Finish) 118° Standard Straight 8769A21 $10.05
Uncoated (Bright Finish) 130° Standard Round 2841A94 4.51
Uncoated (Bright Finish) ___ ___ Straight 2828A7 12.82


The internets suggest a flatter point (150 degrees) and high speeds with slow feeds are the way to go but I am not the expert.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

damn, ok i searched incorrectly on mcmaster as i only got the one $25 carbide bit when I searched std. jobber 1/16. Odd. Just doing carbide & 1/16 gives me those...thanks matt!

curly

iTrader: (25)

I more or less used to be. Even a $50 drill bit does not mean he'll be able to drill it. It'll be down to the rigidity of his machine and fixture. Obviously Hustler with said $50 drill bit, his ebay fixture, and his drill press still wouldn't be able to drill them. Sounds like even a manual mill might not have the rigidity or rpm range necessary.

Sounds like he needs a decent peck cycle on a CNC with slowish feeds. Or said voodoo machinist.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

This bolt situation is gay.

BenR

iTrader: (2)

You know what else is gay? Not calling someone in your own state that advertises in specializing in drilling holes in this exact type of bolt. Or just use the nordlocks.

turotufas

iTrader: (7)

lol

y8s

iTrader: (8)

Right... which is why shops charge a couple hundred bucks to drill a handful of bolts. gotta pay for the Fadal.

Incidentally, more googling came up with EDM as another option. Not sure on cost but at least you're using up electrodes instead of breaking drills.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Fadal, Haas, Mazak, Bridgeport, Cincinnati, Viper, Mori-Seiki...pick your $20,000+ poison.

I probably saved over 5 grand in machine work while working as a machinist.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I may buy some scrap aluminum at Homo Depot and try to fabricate something to attach to the turbine-outlet v-band clamp, connecting to the 2 rearward engine mount bolts. I'm assuming the manifold with "grow" outward, toward the adjuster on my AST 5100 Super Badass Elitist Shock so I'll try to keep this in mine before I fail at life. The difficulty will be making the piece rigid on 2-planes, flexible on the other.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

I may be misunderstanding what/where it is going on, so if this makes no sense, then just ignore it.

Can you make a clamp that will have attatchment points on both sides of the housing, and then have two to three threaded adjusters that will allow you to pull both parts together.

To give a simple shape of what i am talking about. Imagine two rings connected to one another by threaded adjusters. This allows you to adjust the distance between the rings, or clamp something in between. One ring would attatch to the CHRA bolts ( I know it couldn't be a ring, but you get the idea)

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I think your idea is attacking a symptom, not the problem. The problem lies at the turbine housing (I think) and it's harmonic vibration. I'm curious though, if I damp the vibration at the compressor housing, does that mean the turbine housing is still essentially vibrating, therefor stressing the CHRA hardware? Should I consider the entire turbo one piece in regards to where I apply the damping, or target the turbine like JKav told me initially?

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

I think if you clamp the two pieces togetehr it will cause them to oscillate at the same amplitude and frequency, which should eliminate the bolt issue. However, like you said, this is just tackling the symptom. The energy will be transferred elswhere, so soemthing else will stressed harder. If it can take it, then there will be no issues.

I don't think that you can think of them as one piece, because it appears that they are displaying seperate harmonics.

Ideally: Get those two pieces to act as one, then tackle the vibration of the system.

curly

iTrader: (25)

I say you make something ghetto and half assed before handing any car or money over to someone else. That's always been my motto. If my sloppy fix doesn't do it, making it pretty and expensive won't either.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

What are your thoughts on damping this vibration at the turbine outlet v-band? I'm worried about stressing that too.

I find it someone ironic that the MSM, which get's so much negativity and considered to be a terrible turbo car" has this problem figured out and I'm looking for a way to replicate it.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

Could you do something as simple as bracing your DP to stabilize the rear part of the turbo??? The DP is probably torquing quite a bit as the exaust is bouncing around. Think about the length of that lever arm.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I don't understand how torsion on the exhaust is going to affect the CHRA hardware, they aren't connected in that regard. Torsion on the DP would affect the turbine/turbo flange but that's not the problem.