CLT discrepancies vs cheapo aftermarket water temp gauge and sensor
Hello all!
I've been dealing with cooling issues this past month and I've gotten a lot of help addressing them. I would cruise on the freeway at damn near 220*F with the needle noticeably moving and on TS showing me *Danger Red* lol. I've replaced my ebay rad with a SuperMiata Crossflow rad(1.1 bar OEM rad cap), Mishimoto oil cooler, and 30/70 clt/water and water wetter. Minor ducting and undertray with Rtheory hood vents and going WOT 1-3 I don't even go above 207*F! BUT That was after replacing my generic napa replacement CLT sensor with an ACDELCO one from Rockauto. The ACDELCO sensor really read 10 degree cooler than the NAPA sensor which I thought was odd. In MS they both matched my GM IAT after sitting over night. My aftermarket (ebay/chinese) CLT gauge would even be within +/-3 degrees of the NAPA replacement. Weirdly enough comparing the aftermarket gauge to the ACDELCO at lower temps they would be within 2 degrees of each other but then the ACDELCO would stay considerably cooler lets say it sits at 205*F on MS and then the gauge on the it would say the CLT is at 215. For example I took it to the track today at T-hill and the gauge said it was hitting 235*F but I logged that run and on MLV it says I BARELY scraped 207*F until I got off the track and the temps kinda jumped to 215 and instantly cooled off. I guess what I wanna know is, do I trust the megasquirt telling me im running way cooler than I was or should I trust an aftermarket gauge and sensor? (I've ordered a glowshift one and installing tomorrow to confirm if the gauge is straight dooky or not) I drove it home with the gauge blaring that i was cruising at 240*f ( didnt log it because I didnt think it'd happen on the freeway) I dont know I just want to know if I'm right to be kind of concerned with the discrepancies between MS and my gauge thanks, I'm a bit new to this but I've learned much on this forum and I'm ready to learn more! lol |
You can test the sensors by taking them out, and calibrating them against a decent thermometer using a pot of water brought to the boil on a stove. Likewise the thermostat, if you want to do the job properly. A multimeter can also give you values to check against the tables used in the ecu in producing its readings/warnings.
If you are seeing 240*F, wouldn't it be boiling coolant out to the overflow tank, even at 1.1 bar - any signs of that at all? Not sure what you mean by minor ducting, but unless you are doing all-of-it, you are probably wasting your time and money, Bonnet vents need to be in the right place, or they can make things worse by becoming inlets, not outlets. |
I'll actually try the boiling water thing tonight.
By minor ducting I mean by putting all of the stock undertray and air guides back in because it didnt have any, I sealed off some gaps between the AC heat exchanger, rad and a little bit of the intercooler, and sealed the rad and rad support. And exactly! It isn't boiling at all, not even seeping a little bit out of the rad cap or overflow. I suspect the ebay temp sensor is junk but I do want to test just for science |
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