Clutch
 

So i got my miata back fineilly and i have the xtd clutch and when you drive it then stop and leave it in first it was to jump somtimes its been bleed once already is there another adjustment?

it was to jump sometimes??? :confused:

If your fluid level is not dropping, your clutch master cylinder is going bad. If your fluid level is dropping, it is the slave cylinder dying or a connection down to the slave or the bleeder leaking.

new slave and master is new idk its a 6 pluck so maybe its suppose to be agressive?

adjustment rod on the pedal itself dude check it out.

wtf are you saying?

dude, I'm so confused about what it is your problem is....

he is getting poor clutch engagement you guys dont speek very good giberish :rofl:

puck designs are like that...no more slippage into gear. give it a bit of gas and let off the clutch, don't ease into it. it should hookup right away, with no "studder". That's why they aren't the best for the street.

how is that compared to a "sintered iron" clutch? I can slip the clutch in Dad's camaro, but this thread scares me for the miata.

I dunno to be honest.

The design of the puck clutch is focusing all the rotating weight, providing for better clamping.

But launching from a stop has to be altered. Typicaly on a standard oem clutch, you ease into 1st gear, slowly feathering off the clutch. This is hard to do on a pucked clutch, as once it grabs, it grabs. So you tend to "studder" the car since it wasn't a smooth transistion and not enough gas pedal was given.

You can quickly get used to it, but you have to get used to it.


FWIW, the first time I drove a pucked clutch it was odd, but I trust I would have been fine after 30mins. Currently I have a clutch with an OEM surface on the pressure plate for semi-smoother engagement and pucked on the flywheel side for better clamping force.

I assume the puck clutch won't last as long as a kevlar / funky material one too. I wonder if its harder on the trans and rear end?

I've had a 6 point puck clutch for almost 40K and it doesn't seem any different than when it was new. I have a lighter pressure plate, so the fact that I can slip it well may have something to do with that. Others that get into the car need to get used to it, however.

From a stop, rev up to 3k, let off the throttle, then let up on the clutch while rpm is dropping, then add throttle back in. it won't shudder.

i can slip my XD just like ay other clutch. and it is pucked it just takes abit of feel to get used to.

er, someone brought up kevlar... i hate kevlar. plus it smells weird when it burns. the puck clutch might engage like shit but at least you wont be under the car in a couple months replacing something that wont hold, and they're typically cheap.

thank you for the superior logic.

well, i can start talking about the different characteristics of the friction materials, coupled with different clamping forces and the effect of having "pucks" cut into the friction material. and how that's going to change the engagement of the clutch, and its potential torque holding capacity. not to mention all the clearances involved with stepping flywheels and building custom clutches. but then again, a clutch isnt all that complicated, plus i prefer to keep it simple myself. or we can start talking about how a static compression becomes dynamic as a result of increasing cylinder pressure, and what the final compression ratio would be. that's a fun one, but you need to know some other things first.

I too have heard Kevlar makes better helmets than clutches..

::bites tongue on compression ratio comment::

:bigtu: i would bite my tongue on the compression ratio thing. that's a cool thing to think about as its happening though

is there a "inspection" panel on our transmissions? I really think I just broke a throw out bearing, and not the clutch fingers...and I can't let the car sit while I order the parts I need.

No.

this sucks major ass.

Dont' be such a girl.

You are going to have to pull the trans to fix whatever you fucked up no matter what. So, buy the clutch kit you want and install it. Problem solved. When (if) you ever get around to the engine swap this will be one less thing you have to worry about. Your only issue will be the flywheel, you might have to spend the $$$ on a 1.8 flywheel unless you already have the engine.

what happened?

I don't know when I'll get around to the swap and turbo install, and I'd hate to drive a bunch of eventson a $360 clutch, when I could have just replaced the throw out and saved that much time. I still don't have the motor, so no 1.8 flywheel yet.

clutch is fucked.

way to explain the obvious...

:rly: see if there's fluid in the master.

You make no sense at all. If you are going to drop the trans to replace what you think is a throw out bearing, why not just do all the work now? Do it right.

The time and effort required to drop the trans is such that you should make it worth while. Put the new clutch in, unless you can't afford it right now. Even then, sell the fancy forged pistons and buy a good clutch.

Why drive on the turbo clutch for a few thousand miles, when I can keep the old clutch in there? I don't drive the car that often anyway. I'm not worried about money for a clutch. I'm going to pull the motor soon anyway, but have to make it to a pre-paid track day in 3 weeks.

master has fluid, and slave moves a full 2" or so. The clutch doesn't disengage, and clanks like a few teeth are missing from the pressure plate, or the TOB is fucked. The pedal feels fine.

I can't help myself, it's a sickness.

You still make no sense. Why NOT drive around on the "turbo" clutch? Do you think the lack of power is going to hurt it? You are going to have to break the clutch in anyway, might as well do it while you are still NA ... once you are boosting it'll be a lot harder to show restraint.

I had my clutch in the car over a year before adding the turbo. SMRT.

I'm worried about that bitch not lasting long.

Oh my god. Seriously? You are worried about a LITTLE wear now? What about when you start to beat the shit out of it once you go Turbo?

Jesus dude you look for ways to make you life difficult.

:rofl:

<====
would you like fries with that?

I expect to replace it every 5k miles or so, so why waste the clutch on the stock 1.6?

how do you waste a clutch on the stock 1.6?

I think the throw out let go. It has 148k miles on it. It grips fine, but won't release. The pedal feels fine, and the slave moves, but it makes a clanking noise and never disengages. I can also feel the clanking through the pedal.

what, are you using a stock clutch or something?

get your turbo clutch in there and broken in! you're not going to hurt it at your 90 rwtq.

no no no it'll waste it. Cause god forbid a stock clutch lasted 150K before failing. A heavy duty clutch wont last more than 50 miles.

yeah, my car is totally stock aside from suspension.

yeah i mean the new clutch and your 5k mile comment.

I agree with installing the clutch before turbo. I dropped a pucked ACT HD in on stock power since I have no self control and I would have burned the fucker up with a turbo. I installed it and went for a drive a few days later and it held up great.

As far as the slipping goes, I used to rev it to 3k, then slip quickly to 2k, and then get going, but now I'm able to quickly blip it to 2k and then slip it very lightly. Usually engages around 1400-1500rpm.

Reverse is another story. 4000rpm or you're going to shudder the shit out of it.

I tend to agree with everyone else. If you are going to take out the tranny and know that you are going turbo soon and thus will need a new clutch change the thing now. It is a pain in the ass to pull the tranny unless you have a lift or access to one. There is no way that driving a miata aroound with a stronger clutch is going to put enough wear on it to necessitate replacing it in 5,000 miles.

I have had my RPS maxforce clutch (not sure they make them anymore) in my car for over 40,000 miles and it still works fine and I am at 12 PSI of boost.

is pulling the trans in the miata going to be worse than pulling it in a fwd car? I've never done a clutch in a rwd car.

Put the crack pipe down, 5Kmiles? :gtfo:

miata is so much easier than a FWD car.

btw, you *can* kinda use the fork rubber boot as an inspection hole. if you can get in there to see around it.

easier. no halfshafts, more room.