Zabac

iTrader: (39)

OK, after long reasearch and debate i am coming to realize that Clutchnet is very possibly the best chiose out there (and i know ACT is great)...
It seems to me that all that are against Clutchnet just didnt know what to order. I talked to a guy Igor today and asked the dumbest questions and took up about 30 minutes of his time. He was very helpful to explain to me everything i wanted to know.
Word of advice to everyone considering to go this route, make sure you ASK for either a Bonded disc or one with AL backing, this will significantly prolong the discs life, and as he stated "make it indestructible" lol. Also, they will provide the bearing if you ask for it, its $25 dollars, and if you are nice, they will throw in a free alignment tool. Also, free shipping!!! Just ask for it!
The most important part in your selection should be the PRESSURE PLATE.
The two best choices for most people on this forum would be either Yellow or Red 2X (red 2X), it will hold over 300lb/ft. (close to 400)
The next step is deciding on what disc to use, options are:
-Solid unsprung $75
-Solid sprung $125-they can use different springs, depending on your goals
regular, HD/regular, HD-most people here will be OK with regular, those closer to 300 or more will be ok with the HD/regular (three and three, so total of six springs)
those over 400 should go with HD (all six).
solid sprung is probably the friendliest for street cars
you can get the above spec also in puck style discs 4 or 6, but i myself am not a big fan of puck style discs, i'd rather be easier on my gears
you may also chose Kevlar, Clutchnet is one of the very few companies that use actual Kevlar. It is grippier so therefore better for race apps than street compared to the organic discs described above.
Solid Kevlar Unsprung $145
Solid Kevlar Sprung $195
again with the same spring choices
My set up will include the Red 2X and a solid organic sprung disc (3 regular and 3 HD springs)
Total shipped should come out to about $400, maybe a bit more with the bearings...
Sorry about long post adn those who cared to read the whole thing please feel free to chime in with your experience with clutchnet, good or bad, i am sure a lot of people will benefit from this post as im looking to do so as well.

thanks in advance for your input
-Dan

p.s. I talked to Igor about the possibilty of a group buy where all MTnet members could get 10-20% off final purchase order and free shipping.
What do ya'll think? Am i wasting my time with them or is this something lots of people have been waiting for.

Loki047

iTrader: (6)

Definitely want a group buy, and Definitely appreciate the posting, very helpful!

Thanks Dan

Markp

No offense, but KEVLAR sucks as a clutch material. If you think Kevlar is better, you'll learn quickly enough.

Mark

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

they are good. red pp and a 6-puck sprung disc should hold a lot more than you'll ever make, and it's cheaper than most brand names. they are always cheaper if you call vs online. don't get kevlar. get organic.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Hey Dan, for a change I get only half of the info on your post but since you've gone thru the trouble I would like to get on the possible group buy if it happens after Christmas. I installed one of those ebay clutch kits and I have never been totally happy with it.

I plan to be running around 240whp and I would like a better daily driving clutch.

Let me know,

Rafa

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

/\lol/\
oh i wasn't planning on using Kevlar, i like to drive my car on the street even if Kevlar was better for the track
i never used Kevlar nor could i justify the extra money for it for myself, but its good to hear from you guys
Have either one of ya'll used the clutchnet Kevlar disc? or some other co.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

kevlar is supossed to last forever, however, if it overheats, game over.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I had a clutchnet clutch in my old vr6. The sprung hub section was larger than the pressure plate's inside diameter, and after about 3 weeks started wearing into the plate.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Dan, I think hustler brings up a good point. Any way to check it? Another thing is; hustler did you order the clutch to your specs or did you buy it from someone else?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Bought it from someone else, but the shop told me to call clutchnet because they didn't care. The part #'s were consistent with clutchnets catalog. I should also add that this happened like 8 years ago.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

8 years ago? then you're not that young! maybe the hustler sig has more to do with the original movie (60s?) than with the one with T. Cruise?

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

good point indeed, but it was also a VW and 8 years ago...
thats why i was hoping to get someone that had one on a miata vouch for them because of this very concern
i mean i've heared people mentioning them but who all here actually had one on a miata
hustler-also, were they able to sort your problem out or were you sol

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

all the ebay F! stage 3 kits are rebranded clutchnet parts. a Blue PP (OEM) and the standard 6-puck....they are holding a few peoples 200rwtq here, slap a yellow or red PP in place and.....

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

good point
also, whoever goes with clutchnet, make sure you state you want either a bonded disc or one with aluminum backing, this makes them much stronger...
i myself am against the 3/4/6 puck discs, but to each his own
i was advised by a number of people to go with a heavier pp and a solid disc at higher power levels for smoother engagement and longevity of gears...but im no engineer and i could very well be wrong on the subject

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

the ACT HD kit is a stock clutch disc with a heavier PP.

get a RED PP and a cheap *** disc and i bet you can hold a good bit of boost.


the problem here is always the measurements of these manufacturers. it's nice that clutchnet gives you a number. ACT does as well. some give a random % and other give you the actual clamping force of the PP.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Dan, since you started the thread; would it be appropriate to also discuss flywheel options? Would changing the flywheel at the same time have any effect on the clutch's performance? I'm asking because I kept my stock one. FWIW, I too had checked clutchnet's site but I got lost on their first page when it began asking for options!

If you think this will sidetrack your original intent just let me know.

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

it is recommended to do your clutch and your flywheel at the same time
if you are not getting a lighter flywheel, you should still have your stock flywheel resurfaced
think of it like your breakes, when your rotors get nice an warped and you pads are worn down, you change the pads and you either resurface your rotors or get new ones
looking at it this way, your pads is your clutch disc, your rotor is your flywheel
the pressure plate is like a better caliper with more force...you can do one, two or all three of the things, but its best if you do all three...

Dhaark

iTrader: (3)

I have a Red 3x PP w/ a 6-puck unsprung hub. Quality is amazing. My friend used the same combination on his '97 Neon w/SRT-4 swap fully built w/ SC61s turbo (over 500whp) and it worked great. I'm aslo using a stock flywheel since a lighter one would just be a waste of money on a turbo car...

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

I'm happy with my sprung 6 puck cerametallic from clutchnet. Feels like the trans will give before the disk on hard launch. Traffic stop N go isn't any fun. The ebay sprung disks don't look like mine- similar, but they lack the "encapsulation" flanges that surround the springs. That's what tore apart on my spec... the second time.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

nice to know; how long has it been in your car? any issues? Did you do resurface your flywheel?

Dan, I get what you say but I asked my mechanic when I originally installed mine precisely that question and he said it wasn't necessary. BTW, I had always thought that indeed the flywheel should be resurfaced when installing another clutch but what do I know?