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Connector Witch Hunt

Old 09-15-2014, 12:15 PM
  #281  
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The CAS side connector is the one you really need to do. Thats the one that would make PNP 99+ swaps a reality. The male side of NA TPS and IAC connectors less so.
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Old 09-15-2014, 12:55 PM
  #282  
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Originally Posted by asmasm View Post
On that subject- here is a functional beta connector for the NA8 MAF male side:

1.8 miata MAF connector BETA by AlecMoody on Shapeways

What are people's thoughts on buying one off connectors? That $11.64 is cost from shapeways. If they were cost + $5 and you had to add your own pins would people order them?

Can anyone make a quick list of which connectors are the most in demand? I could add weather sealing to these connectors but it would be expensive since it is a lot of labor to make tiny little molds, degass and then pour a half oz of silicone.
The shapeways FDM process is ok for molding the external elements but not the internal springs that retain the terminals and hold them in plane. It is also not a high temperature material. The pins are CONN-100069 here -> Home Shop Connectors / Harnesses Sumitomo Sumitomo TS Sealed Series Male Terminal, Brass/Tin ( 20 - 16 gauge ) . The seals are CONN-00145 here -> Home Shop Connectors / Harnesses Sumitomo Sumitomo HM / MT / TS Sealed Series wire seal, black ( 22 - 18 gauge ) .

If you want to break out the function of the maf or adapt it to something else, it makes more sense to use the male to adapt to something else unless I am misunderstanding the intent.

For example, you can take the female terminals and repin them in a housing they work with, like CONN-100453 here -> Home Shop Connectors / Harnesses Sumitomo 6 Way Denso diesel injection Pressure sensor Plug (+1 cavity plug). Then use the other side, CONN-100454 here -> Home Shop Connectors / Harnesses Sumitomo 6 Way Denso diesel injection Pressure sensor receptacle with terminals CONN-100069 & seals CONN-00145 and you can then adapt to whatever on the other side of that connection. You don't have to cut up your harness this way.

We already have both sides of the newer MAF on the NB iirc. CONN-75759 here -> http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/2077 , CONN-75758 here -> http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/2075 .

You can use CONN-100453 & CONN-100454 to match up the other side of the CAS using the same terminals but a variant housing with the same terminal count. Again, a solution that doesn't require a mold or complex work or cutting your harness, just an adapter.

Last edited by vtjballeng; 09-15-2014 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 09-15-2014, 12:56 PM
  #283  
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Originally Posted by asmasm View Post
Also, does anyone know where to source terminals that are compatible with the OEM sizes? The delphi 280 series I am using is a really bad fit in the MAF connector and I can't find anything with the OEM dimensions.
There are more than one terminal type on the car. If you mean the MAF, it is 2.3mm and the mating terminal is CONN-100069 here -> Home Shop Connectors / Harnesses Sumitomo Sumitomo TS Sealed Series Male Terminal, Brass/Tin ( 20 - 16 gauge ) . Several other terminals series mate as 2.3mm is a common series size.

The terminal that actually fits in the MAF plug is CONN-11856 here -> http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/1567 and the seal is CONN-00145 here -> http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/940 .
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Old 09-15-2014, 01:09 PM
  #284  
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Originally Posted by vtjballeng View Post
The shapeways FDM process is ok for molding the external elements but not the internal springs that retain the terminals and hold them in plane. It is also not a high temperature material.
FWIW shapeway's basic material is SLS nylon and it should be good past 200f.

Also, unless the drawings are wrong the connectors you posted look like they are for the NB maf. I searched around for the NA maf connector earlier this year but gave up. If they are available I defiantly want to be able to order them.
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Old 09-15-2014, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by asmasm View Post
FWIW shapeway's basic material is SLS nylon and it should be good past 200f.
I've had these sorts of parts made by shapeways in the Strong & Flexible and Detailed Plastic. The Strong and Flexible is 176F according to their website here -> Strong & Flexible Plastic 3D Printing Material Information - Shapeways . The Detailed Plastic is much lower and entirely unsuitable except for mockup. Bear in mind the material is weakening up to this point and neither material is really suitable for extended use under the hood.

I thought it was FDM but they do say SLS. It comes with powder on the parts and vertical inaccuracy typical of FDM and doesn't look like an SLS part. I think it might be a typo but it doesn't really matter. The Strong and Flexbile is far too inaccurate for the internal features I mentioned and the Detailed Plastic is borderline at best. Either process is ok for the external dimensions, & lock.

Shapeways is great for parts that don't require high accuracy or delicate internal features.
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Old 09-15-2014, 01:27 PM
  #286  
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I agree that there needs to be simplified internal structure and that DIY connectors won't have the same fit and quality as the OEM versions. However, shapeways is being really conservative with their numbers. Their WSF is nylon 12 / PA2200 which doesn't melt until 340F. It doesn't appreciably soften until around 200F and it is a thermoplastic so it will stay stable through heat cycling.

Having a connector that is missing some internal springs is a lot better than sliding open pins into a connector and then wrapping it all in electrical tape.

Last edited by asmasm; 09-15-2014 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 09-15-2014, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by asmasm View Post
I agree that there needs to be simplified internal structure and that DIY connectors won't have the same fit and quality as the OEM versions. However, shapeways is being really conservative with their numbers. Their WSF is nylon 12 / PA2200 which doesn't melt until 340F. It doesn't appreciably soften until around 200F and it is a thermoplastic so it will stay stable through heat cycling.

Having a connector that is missing some internal springs is a lot better than sliding open pins into a connector and then wrapping it all in electrical tape.
Interesting point on the temperature, glad to know they are understating the value though I believe their quoted parameter is where the properties start to degrade, not actual melting temperature. Weakening isn't just temperature as the Nylon will absorb moisture and without any glass fiber reinforcement will embrittle with temperature and age. Either way I'll stick with it being unsuitable for long term use. I agree the material properties will probably be fine for the intended DIY usage here, just not something I would ever sell to someone.

As far as the housing, it doesn't make sense to me. It is a bunch of effort you don't need to spend, unless the effort is just a practice / fun endeavor.

Option 1 - Individual terminals in adhesive lined headshrink. Wrap some plastic from a student folder around it with tape, spray release agent and drop some RTV in for mechanical retention and sealing. Remove plastic and tape wrapping once hardened.

Option 2 - Get an alternate connector that accepts the same terminals, then use it's mate with a short wire length and the proper connector on the other end to adapt to your MAF of choice. This is far simpler and less time consuming. In this case, this is what I recommend and is easily achieved.

Option 3 - get about 2000 people together who want to pay a lot for this part and low volume injection mold it properly.

Either way, good luck!
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:57 PM
  #288  
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Edit: Ooops, there was another page of comments. Nevermind. :-)

----------------------


I'd love to see how they work in real life - breakable? Smooth enough? My (a few years back) experience was that 3D printed stuff wouldn't be up to that job - but if you've made one I'd love to see how it turns out....
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:09 PM
  #289  
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CONFIRMED.

1. the GOOD. the VVT plug connector from an old Toyota Lexus fits the VVT connector on 2001-2005 VVT engines. They also come with a ~rubber shield~ to protect the plug connector from engine heat.

2. the BAD. most plug connectors of this type you'll find in the junkyard will brake the locking tab after you remove it from the sensor, must find another source but at least i gave you a lead.
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:15 PM
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Or use the evap canister connector for the VVTeez. It's either the yellow or orange one. I forgot.
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by StealthNB View Post
CONFIRMED.

1. the GOOD. the VVT plug connector from an old Toyota Lexus fits the VVT connector on 2001-2005 VVT engines. They also come with a ~rubber shield~ to protect the plug connector from engine heat.

2. the BAD. most plug connectors of this type you'll find in the junkyard will brake the locking tab after you remove it from the sensor, must find another source but at least i gave you a lead.
You can already buy this connector new. I have.
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Old 09-16-2014, 06:22 PM
  #292  
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Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
You can already buy this connector new. I have.
I don't have time to read the whole thread, where?
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Old 09-16-2014, 06:23 PM
  #293  
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Old 09-17-2014, 01:18 AM
  #294  
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thank you Leafy I am going to order the VVT and TPS pigtails as both in my car are missing the locking tab, for reference here is a link with all the miata connector components available on that website
Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics
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Old 09-25-2014, 04:18 PM
  #295  
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This thread is awesome. Thanks Leafy and Abe [and everyone else that contributed]. Eastern Beaver hopefully rocks too, just placed an order.
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Old 09-25-2014, 04:25 PM
  #296  
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They just sometimes take a bit of time, the whole shipping from Japan thing.
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Old 09-25-2014, 04:36 PM
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Ok I figured as much. Their site says 10-ish days, plus from their picture it looks like they're working out of their dining room, so I'm thinking <2 weeks and I'm a happy customer. It's all good because I'm not tearing the car apart for another month-ish.
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Old 09-26-2014, 01:43 PM
  #298  
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Originally Posted by asmasm View Post
...I searched around for the NA maf connector earlier this year but gave up.
fwiw- Looks like RX8 Mazda3 Mazda5 and Mazda6 MAF meters have the same connection. That might increase the possibility that somebody has created the connector as part of a kit for modification. IF not, this 3/5/6/8 unit certainly lends itself to salvage/modification for alternate use better than the Miata unit. And they're a lot cheaper used/new.
95 Miata MAF (top) Mazda 3/5/6/x8 MAF (below)

Attached Thumbnails Connector Witch Hunt-95-miata-rx-maf.jpg  
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Old 10-26-2014, 09:11 AM
  #299  
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To add to the spreadsheet:

you can find the alternator connector at advanced autosports (Replacement Alternator Plug [029-110-44001] - $13.95 : Advanced Autosports, Miata Race Parts, Spec Miata and TRANS AM Race Car Sales, Service, Build & Rentals Support in Midwest). It comes with a pigtail, but it's not hard to pull apart the connector.
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Old 10-26-2014, 02:01 PM
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Are you on the list? PM me your gmail-account email and I'll add you on the list and you can edit doc. :-)
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