COPs for Dummies...for the 1.8
 

Consider this an add on to Samnavy's COPs for Dummies thread for the 1.8 cars.

Here is what I did:
First, find two dead coilpacks for your car and cut off this part
Attachment 213370
Attachment 213371

Then you need to remove all the epoxy without damaging any of the pins

Attachment 213372

Then you solder your wires onto the pins

Attachment 213373
Attachment 213374

Then you need to source your COPs.
I found car-part.com to be a pretty good source and I called several places before i got one to agree to cut off the wires on the connectors and include the connectors for me as well all for $70 or so shipped.
If you want to go the other route, read up in Sams thread as he got connectors from Toyota and made his own pins.
My COPs ended up getting here with the entire harness which made it easier for me.

So once you have your OEM connectors finished and solder wires to them (keep in mind that you are pairing up 1&4 and 2&3) you need to measure the distance where you need to strip the wires. Here is what mine looked like.

Attachment 213375

Once you have done that, slip your heatshrink over all the wires on the harness and solder the first set of Toyota connectors in place and then you can slip the heatshrink on and then shrink it in place.
After you finish this, slip another set of heatshrinks on the wires again for the second set and reapeat the obvious.

Once you have soldered all your wires in place and put the heatshrink in place, you are done with the harness. Now make it look fancy, you can go to any automotive store and get the spiral tubing or if you get lucky like me, you can reuse most of the Toyota harness.

Attachment 213376

Your harness is now done!

Now go build a bracket or get someone to build you one. As always, use common sense where I left out any details.

Make sure to read the other threads on here by braineack and Sam as they have made it very easy for everyone to learn what you need in this conversion.
Search is your friend.

FWIW, here is my schematic i used as i found it to be pretty easy to read.
Attachment 213377

Hope this helps as I really can't make it any easier than what I did.

Ah, cool. I didn't realize the 1.8 procedure was different. Glad to see this.

C

I heared a few people say that, that's why i made this thread.

I used a "spare" 1.8 harness that goes to the coils. Cut the connectors off where they connect to the stock coils, then ran fresh wire to the COP connectors.

Note, depending on what year of 1.8, you might not have 4-wire coils. You might only have 3-wire coils without the RPM/Tach output required. My 95.5 does not have it.

Dave,

just to clarify, since i have the 3 wire coils, could i not just fore-go having to cut the coil and just join the two B+s and the G-'s and run the bank one and bank two triggers to my new coils?

like this:
http://i27.tinypic.com/141terl.jpg

Yeah you can, I think. In theory, it does not matter where the coils get power from nor where they get grounded, as long as they do. Then you just run paired trigger wire in your case since you do not have the tach signal
Only reason I ran separate power and ground was to keep things simple and PnP. I can go back to my old set-up in no time and no factory wiring was altered. There are many ways to do this, I am just giving an example.

NOTE: If you do run like that, use at least 12ga. wires for 12v and g.
I ran 12ga on 12v and g and 14 ga. on trigger and tach, it is known that smaller wires, dependng on quality, may not give you good idle, ask Saml01, lol.

Ah ok, thanks, and i was just curious and wanted to be sure i fully understood,
also, i didnt mean to crap on your thread about it, keeping all stock wiring in tact would def be a good reason to get a spare coil pack and cut the bitch,
great write-up tho!
Thanks.

Can I use the same capacitors?

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=493-1546-ND

If so should I buy two and place one on the wires for 1 + 4 and place the other on the wires for 2 + 3?

You do it before the harness splits the power and use only one.

COP Cap
 

Hey guys,
Great info on the COP setup. Wired mine up in a few hours last nite. Car fired instantly, idle was a little higher than with the OEM coilpak, and afrs seem to be more stable. Won't get it out on the road until tomorrow to see how things are in boost.

I've searched and found no definite answers and am curious on the cap to be added (or not). I'm running a MSPnP in my early 95 with the same COP pnp setup as above. Is the addition of the cap necessary? Oh yeah, also running hirez.

Thanks for the help.:bowrofl:

Skip

Found the answer I think. Its a resistor and not a cap and fixes the tach signal on 90-93 ms users???

Not sure, search for a thread by Ben on 10K capacitors, it explains it some, but you do need it.

back from dead.
¿can you post the photos in another server?