Reverant

iTrader: (10)

We don't seem to have a dedicated board for electronics (ok we don't want to discuss audio, subs and neon lights on this forum, I understand that much), so I'm posting this here.

So the car alarm I had on my car (stealership quality) crapped out a couple of years ago. I popped it open and the batteries inside it had leaked all over the PCB...ouch. A few days later I bought a new Viper (the one with the OLED display on the remote) with all the extras. It's getting worse and worse by the year over here, so even though I have a closed garage now, I'm still worried when I park the car outside. I never had free time to actually install it like I would like...until this easter. I've been installing gauges etc on several Miatas locally, and I've been cursing every time I removed the kickpanel...nest of wires everywhere and a easily accessible car alarm module ziptied on the steering column. Do not want.

So I started stripping the entire interior of the car, as I wanted to install a rollbar anyway, I removed the dash and this made installing the unit a TON easier. I wouldn't even dream of doing it with the dash in place.

A few days ago:



The main unit already has a shock sensor built in. I added a dual zone proximity sensor, a tilt sensor, trunk and hood switch and auto windows roll-up on arm. I'm also connecting the 4 aux relay drivers (which you can activate through the remote) to the horn, the headlights, the dual-lock door locks (NB2 feature) and I still have one relay available - any ideas? I'm also adding the remote start feature, its nice to be able to remote start with the A/C on a hot day with the car parked outside.

Will post more pics tomorrow.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

last relay should activate the flame thrower you need to install next.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

That would be cool, yes. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare LPO-50 in the attic.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

drats.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Trunk pop.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

That's already in the standard outputs, along with door lock/unlock, parking lights (ie the flasher module). I was thinking remote kill for whatever reason. I'm already looking for ways to actually disable the ECU if the alarm is armed, in a non trivial way.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Fuel pump disable might be easier.

AARP

Reminds me of the nightmare I had to deal with the the alarm my PO had installed. That thing was the worst wiring job I've ever seen.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

consider a well-reviewed add-on shock sensor. they're probably easier to tune and less likely to go off when your neighbor farts.

my alpine almost never falses due to shock. only tornado-warning storms will set it off. or lightly rapping on a body panel of course.

My favorite lame feature: windows. one button rolls both down. both roll up upon arming.

you can also set up some relays to lock-out the trunk pop and windows-down but be careful not to require the relays to be energized when the alarm is armed unless you like jumpstarting the car.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, but its the obvious thing. I was thinking something along the lines of "cut 2 out of 4 injectors". Then the car would almost catch but will never really run.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Do you really care how obvious it is? Its not like whoever is stealing ur car will try to hotwire the fuel pump.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

I had a customer's car the other day to MS. He had a car alarm that disabled the starter and fuel pump. I tried to start it on the MS but it wouldn't - the starter wouldn't turn and the fuel pump wouldn't prime. The remote was out of battery. I literally bypassed both in less than 5 minutes and started the car, and I'm no car thief. All the wiring was pretty much exposed and easy to bypass.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

wire it to the crank or cam sensor?

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Wire it to engage your anti-lag system when armed. Better than a siren.