do i really need to replace teh water pump at 140k?
 

I'm about to do a timing belt job on friday since I don't know when or if it was ever replaced from the previous owner. I already have all the parts and shit, but is it worth fucking with the water pump if its not leaking or screaming?

Can I just use the shitty gaskets that came with the pump, or should I get hard core and use some permatex? I've had bad luck with paper and or rubber gaskets in the past on shitty VWs.

I'm taking this car from glorious dallas to okc for a few months...and hitting the track every weekend, and I want to be sure I cover all my bases.

Yes definitely change the water pump. Don't know what kit you have, but whatever gaskets you have should be fine.

+1

Getting the timing belt off is the hard part. Might as well replace the pump while you're in there, it's not that expensive.

i already have the parts in the garage. I'm worried about it leaking though...I have the worst luck.

I'd be more worried about the old pump failing than the new pump leaking. The old pump will fail; it's definitely reaching the end of its service life.

The PO of my car misaligned the paper gasket that came with the WP he used, and it started leaking as soon as I acquired the car. I replaced it all, and feel fairly comfortable with the new paper gasket...once it was aligned.

You can use a light smearing of permatex to hold the gasket in place so that it doesn't get misaligned.

The page you don't want to hear at work: Will the owner of the white Miata please go to your car. There is a large puddle under it!

Happened to me at about 120k miles, 20k after doing the belt but not the pump.:vash:

The hardest part about doing the timing belt is getting there.... so.... if you want, you don't have to, but expect to have to do it eventually.....

The only advantage of not doing the WP, is that you can cut the original timing belt, and get the new one on.... which will let you keep everything in alignment.

One thing I've learned.... a 22 mm, or 24mm (it's been a while) will slip onto the cams between 1&2.... you can use two wrenches to help move the cams to get the belt re-aligned....

I say, if you have the parts though, and you are going to be "pushing" the car on the track.... swap it. The last thing you need is to be replacing it at the track, and worried about having trouble with "breaking" other stuff....

Dave,

I have the same fear of leakage with these sort of things and have found the best prevention is to make sure the mating surfaces are scrupulously clean and dry prior to reassembly. One of the best things I have found for cleaning the gasket surfaces are those red ScotchBrite pads. Use sparingly and remove every spec of the old gasket. Try to avoid the temptation to use a razor blade because you can (and most likely will) nick the surfaces and affect their ability to seal.

The other thing to do is the right type of Permatex as noted above, and follow the instructions top the t. The most common mistake is to assemble things too quickly - the Permatex (or similar) needs time to set up. Generally the directions will tell you how long or to what consistency it needs to be. The key is that it needs to be exposed to air and kept dry to do so.

Also, while you are there, consider replacing the tensioner as well if you don't know the service history of the vehicle.

I've been trying to convince myself that I only need to do the timing belt, since nothing seems to be leaking, but every time I try to save money or time on this stuff, the maintenance gods slap me around. I'd change everything, just be patient, especially if you have something else to drive. That's what I'm planning, anyway.

It only takes a few extra minutes and just a few dollars to do the water pump. Just do it now and forget about it for another 104K